SUS/front suspension
From AE86 Driving Club FAQ
Contents |
AE86 Shocks
AE86 Standard Part No.: 365015 Cartridge Length: 400mm Cartridge O.D.: 43mm Compressed Length: 416mm Uncompressed Length: 604mm
ST204 Celica
Part No.: 365092
Cartridge Length: 333mm
Cartridge O.D.: 43mm
Compressed Length: 355mm
Uncompressed Length: 519mm
AGX Part No.:765017
SW20 MR2 Rear
Part No.: 365100
Cartridge Length: 360mm
Cartridge O.D.: 43mm
Compressed Length: 370mm
Uncompressed Length: 542mm
AGX Part No.:765016
Tokico HTS102
Cartridge Length: 332mm
Uncompressed Length
TRD
48511-AE031 5 stage adjustable rate
KYB
AE92 Short stroke front 365077
SW20 MR2 AGX 765016 or 765015
Koni
Blistein
Coil overs
AJPS
There are three different packages to choose from in the AJPS range of coilovers. The coilovers are provided on a change over basis, where you send your struts to AJPS and they make up coilovers on them and send them back. If you do not have AE86 Struts then you can purchase a pair from AJPS for an additional cost.
The springs supplied with the coilovers can be ordered in what ever rate your heart desires, if you are unsure on what rate spring to use, have a chat with one of the friendly staff and they will be able to steer you in the right direction for which spring rate best suits your application.
Listed below are the three different packages available.
The base package
AE86 strut (changeover)
-Koni coilover kit
-AJPS spring
-KYB excel shocks
-Quality short stroking (40mm removed and small spacer)
-Painting of the strut
The Intermediate Package
AE86 strut (changeover)
-Koni coilover kit
-AJPS spring
-KYB excel g shocks
- AJPS upper hat system
-Cusco camber tops
-Quality short stroking
-Painting of the strut
The Pro Package
AE86 strut (changeover)
-Koni coilover kit
-AJPS spring
-Damper adjustable AGX / TRD
-AJPS upper hat system
-Cusco camber tops
-Quality short stroking and painting of the strut
For pricing please head to the suspension suppliers page and look for AJPS
T3
The Techno Toy Tuning front coilovers come with everything pictured below, they can be provided with any spring rate that you desire, the major downfall to these is the price, as you need to not only pay for the product but the shipping from america also.
The major downfall for the front coilovers is the fact that the threaded sleeve is a loose fit on the strut, a bead is welded then the alloy perch sits on this. they are also unable to be engineered as they only have one (1) locking ring, which is tightened by two (2) grub screws.
--Just Half Steppin 22:03, 15 November 2007 (EST)
D2/G4 Coil Overs
These coilovers appeared on the market a while ago...they appeared at "cheap" prices...and with reason, below is a pic of the reason you dont want to buy this product...
This was after a short time of usage on a track...they claim the coil-overs are built for "drift", Clearly not. --Just Half Steppin 23:32, 18 November 2007 (EST)
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The above is just one case, I have been using D2's for a while now and had no problems. There has been contentious debate on whether D2 are not worth buying or if they are OK. I would say that you do get what you pay for, they are cheaper but they still work like they are suppose. I would say that the above was a faulty set which you get with all brands. They are really not bad as a cheap set to get you going (got mine for $250) however I personally would not buy them new and would stick with the big brands.
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--n00bvak 14:17, 19 February 2008 (EST)
S13/S14 coilovers
Thanks to Hen for the original write up
For background discussion of this mod you can read here or here (if you can sift through the crap).
This shows the details of doing it one way (S13 coilover, hub, AE86 strut top, MX62 LCA, RA60 rack ends and Bluebird tie rods) and outlines other options for all these parts.
LCAs
I used MX62 LCAs, they need a few mods as shown below:
1 - Cut off the lock stops. Lock is still limited by the tierod hitting the LCA. But it doesn't invert at full travel
2 - Slot one of the castor rod holes a couple of mm. This took half an hour with the world's crappest hand file, so it isn't a big job.
3 - Drill a new swaybar mount. 15mm hole. Easy.
Also note that AE86 inner bushes fit MX62 arms, so you can get good urethane ones. Plus the standard balljoint is a BJ314 (used in many large RWD Toyotas) which is a good fit for the S13 hubs. The arms are 60mm longer than AE86 arms.
Othe LCA options:
- S13. Needs new castor rod holes. Enlarging crossmember mount hole, or new crush tubes. 50mm longer than AE86 arms.
- S14. As above. A little longer again. Balljoint suits S14 hub, NOT S13.
- Sigma. S13 balljoint MAY press into a sigma arm. Unsure if this will work though.
- JZX81. No further details
Rack ends and tie rods
Used RA60 rack ends (Repco part# RP706). Overall 20mm longer than AE86 rack ends. Balljoint sits about 10mm further inboard than AE86 rack end. Otherwise identical to AE86 items.
Bluebird TRX (Aussie model) tie rods (Repco part# RP560L and RP560R). These have a slight kink in them. I don't think it matter which side they are mounted though. They won't foul anything.
Other rack end/tie rod options
- S13 rack ends and tie rods. Drill and tap the end of the rack to suit the S13 rack end thread.
- MX83 rack ends and S15 tie rods. As suggested by Sprintersaurus and EvoSti, though apparently they end up a little short.
- AW11 rack end and S13 tie rod end. Sounds perfect.
Other bits
S13 hubs, S13 SR calipers and discs, S13 rubber lines from caliper, S13 coilovers, AE86 camber tops.
Further options for parts
One of the big advantages of this upgrade is that there are stacks of Nissan brake upgrades which fit. Just briefly you can BOLT UP brake from CA S13 under 14s, SR S13, S14 iron 4 pots, Z32 alloy 4 pots and R33 big alloy 4pots to name a few.
S14 coilovers can be used. They are longer in the body and may help with ride height or droop issues. Different size mounting holes, but the work of a few minutes to fix though.
S14 hubs could be used to give a 5 stud setup too. Though be careful because S13 and S14 have different balljoint tapers to fit ot the LCA.
Fitting it all together
Once you have all the parts it if very simple to put together. I did it in an afternoon, and spent a fair bit of that time wandering around looking for parts I put away months ago. You'll have to loosen off the castor rod bushes to get it attached to the LCA. The castor rod will now point a bit further outboard. I wound castor out to the minimum possible and still have +4.5deg.
LCA balljoint fits the S13 hub well, I had to belt them with a hammer to seperate them again. Bluebird tie rod is not a perfect fit in the steerng arm, close, but not 100%. Still, it needs a hammer to seperate them. There is heaps of overlap between rack end and tie rod.
Some minor work was needed to fit the strut tops to the coilovers. Hard to explain. Obvious when you're looking at the bits. Don't let this stop you.
S13 rubber lines reach and fit the ends of the factory AE86 hard lines inside the guards.
Under the guards look like this:
End result
With the camber adjustment on the coilover at max positive, the strut tops wound out to max positive and a set of 15 by 6, +24 wheels in 195/50 tyres, the setup looks like this:
Wheels are basically perfectly flush with the guards. Camber is -3deg with strut tops in approx fatory location. Track increase of around 50mm a side.
Verdict
They are sick and hektik. Used it for about a year now and its good. Only issue I've found is that the steering arms come bloody close to inverting. At full lock it can be difficult to turn back to centre, but this only happens when backing up in reverse.
