Drift RC Cars

[Low Style]

Hey guys,

I bought a drift rc car no too long ago.


Post up pics of yours and any cool wheels/bodies/items for RC you have found or have.

[pen15]

i will when i get home but its a ct5 pig

[UGANGA]

i gota get piks of mine up lol
has a few parts i made
carbon bonnet( useless on a RC car lol)
cannon
time attack wheels lol
pic asap

[AE092]

I like spamming photos

http://i36.tinypic.com/eam5ja.jpg

http://i35.tinypic.com/2hro75j.jpg

Yes they were/are mine. Have plenty more but too lazy to post them up. Was a drifter the AutoSalon and Drift Fest some time back.

[ae71neo]

Whats the go with these? People running Yokomo, Tamiya? All 1:10 yeah?

[shift_rook]

i'm buying beau's old one, should bring some good fun

[Chaos Theory]

i have a basic TT01 with a mercedes benz CLK touring car body, no hop ups or mods as i don't use it enough to justify spending more money on it.

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/images/tamiya_58341_1.jpg

[Gunner]

http://i36.tinypic.com/eam5ja.jpg
I want this body for my tg10 i'm restoring. Any see's one for sale let me know.

[corknose]

i had a tt-01 pretty crap belt is better for drifting, so i bought a ta-05 full carbon chassis shocktowers lexan belt covers you get the idea. got over it sold it and bought a ml01 not drift but nice and quick.

specs are:
tamiya sussy all round
7700 brushless
3 cell lipo huge last easy one hour.

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/8/6/6/28652.jpg
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/8/6/6/28653.jpg
mid way through my build

had number plates
strobes
zaust
tow ring
cage.

[slydar]

Whats the go with these? People running Yokomo, Tamiya? All 1:10 yeah?

drift cars are usually 1:10 electric powered touring cars (4wd), some people run M chassis' but still always 4wd.

tamiya is probably the most popular brand, then HPI, yok' and the rest.

[AE092]

I'm a Tamiya man. I generally go for Tamiya branded bodies as most others are too disproportionate.

[pen15]

ae092 could i see some more pics of your rx7 and how did you get so much camber?

[corknose]

matt you can go on briz drift find it on there, you can either wind in the uper tie rod as far as posible or just disconnect it drill another hole and screw back in.

[AE092]

http://i38.tinypic.com/nejdon.jpg

And during the development stages when it was uncomplete
http://i37.tinypic.com/33eht6w.jpg

http://i34.tinypic.com/2i1hwkk.jpg

like penis said, I had adjustable upper arms (camber arms) so I just had them to whatever camber setting my suspension set up is.

[slydar]

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/1/8/547920.jpg

TB03D

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/1/8/28912.jpg

[corknose]

nice ta05?

[(OO)SKYLINE(OO)]

http://i38.tinypic.com/nejdon.jpg

And during the development stages when it was uncomplete
http://i37.tinypic.com/33eht6w.jpg

http://i34.tinypic.com/2i1hwkk.jpg

like penis said, I had adjustable upper arms (camber arms) so I just had them to whatever camber setting my suspension set up is.
Hey AE092!

It's Jamie from SAU, I remember you posting in the thread of your RX7.

Again, it looks friggin tuff! I like the TE37 Time Attack wheels, you had to paint the red lip yeah..?

I got myself a FD shell, but it is a HPI shell and I hate the rear wing, I wanted just the stock / Mazda FD like yours, looks hell of a lot better!

BTW I still need to get the "Bling" kit with the mufflers and intercoolers LOL!

[Low Style]

i still have to get some decent offset wheels for mine and some other things but i dont take it out at all atm so i cbf'd

[DRFTR86]

hey guys, i had a play around with one of my mates tt01 on the weekend and im hooked, still havent got my head around what is good and such, ive read through the tt-01 thread that slydar created, and gathered that im best to start with a tt01.

got a few questions for you rc gurus out there:

where do you get tamiya shells??, are other shells like yokomo and hpi compatible with the tt01 chassis.

are othere manuafacturers wheels compatible with the tt01, ie hpi racing te37

how is offset worked out??

im planning on buying the tt01 coppermix s15 kit from oz rc. as it doesnt come with reciever gear and battery, whats the best to get???, my mates battery doesnt last very long and i can see that pissing me off quickly, so what am i looking for in a longer lasting battery.

bring the advice peoples, much appreciated

[AE092]

Hi Jamie,

If I was you, I'd ditch the HPI RX-7 and get the Tamiya one :P It comes with the light buckets as well as the properly moulded wing: None of that lexan crap.

As for the wheels, yeh I had to paint the time attack lip on it. Once I did it and posted it up, everyone else seem to follow suit so that sucks.

As for the "bling" kit, HPI sells the accessories pack which includes the exhaust and intercooler

[slydar]

nice ta05?

nah, TB03. shaft car. but same suspension etc.

[corknose]

thats why i thought so, why did u go shaft?

[slydar]

hey guys, i had a play around with one of my mates tt01 on the weekend and im hooked, still havent got my head around what is good and such, ive read through the tt-01 thread that slydar created, and gathered that im best to start with a tt01.

got a few questions for you rc gurus out there:

where do you get tamiya shells??, are other shells like yokomo and hpi compatible with the tt01 chassis.

are othere manuafacturers wheels compatible with the tt01, ie hpi racing te37

how is offset worked out??

im planning on buying the tt01 coppermix s15 kit from oz rc. as it doesnt come with reciever gear and battery, whats the best to get???, my mates battery doesnt last very long and i can see that pissing me off quickly, so what am i looking for in a longer lasting battery.

bring the advice peoples, much appreciated

1. tbh, if youve had a chance to try it out rc drifting, and like it, then maybe just get a TBO3 or TA05. these cars need zero hop ups. they come with all metal drive train, full bearings, etc. if you can pick on with a body you like, then that makes things alot easier.

all shells are compatible with other chassis. all the car used for drifting are the the style 1/10th EP (electric powered) touring cars (4wd). you will just have to estimate/work out where to put the holes for the body posts if you mix manufacturers.

my car is a HPI shell on a tamiya chassis.

all touring cars just about, use the same wheel hex's are are therefore compatible. again, im using HPI wheels on my tamiya.

normally, wheels are a 0 offset, some tamiya stock wheels are -3. offset is the same as cars, but opposite. -3 is 3mm further in, +6, 6mm further out.

radio gear, just get what youre willing to spend. i had futaba JR which ozrc has for like $40 for a full set. recently upgraded to 2PL 2.4ghz so i dont have to worry about frequencies when i got to tuesday/thursday meetings, but it was $200 without for just a transmitter and receiver, no servo.

batteries depends on what motor you run a bit. i found my TT with a 19t ran for ages on a 3300mah NIMH battery.

when i changed to brushless, i was getting pretty shit run times, so upgraded to lipo, but you do need a fair bit more exxy charger. batteries are .2v more powerfull, run harder right up untill theyre "flat" and you get way more cycles out of them before they start to die (performance drops away).

[slydar]

wow, typo town. anyway sure you can decipher it.

[BON35]

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/8/3/3/547928.jpg
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/8/3/3/28982.jpg
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/8/3/3/28983.jpg
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/8/3/3/28984.jpg (http://s498.photobucket.com/albums/rr350/trxbones/?action=view&current=neonlights1.flv)

Yokomo mr4tcsd

[corknose]

NEVER EVER EVER EVERRRR RUN A LIPO FLAT!!!!!!
yes i will never use a nihd battery again just wasting time lipos you can get close to an hour.

[lolwat]

yea never run lipo's flat they don't have a memory like most batteries and if they go flat they simply die
should i get my FULLY sick drift team losi BK2(its a 2wd buggy that drifts nice in dirt)with the 13x2 motor, hand wound, blue printed and FUCKING FLYS:P

[DRFTR86]

1. tbh, if youve had a chance to try it out rc drifting, and like it, then maybe just get a TBO3 or TA05. these cars need zero hop ups. they come with all metal drive train, full bearings, etc. if you can pick on with a body you like, then that makes things alot easier.

all shells are compatible with other chassis. all the car used for drifting are the the style 1/10th EP (electric powered) touring cars (4wd). you will just have to estimate/work out where to put the holes for the body posts if you mix manufacturers.

my car is a HPI shell on a tamiya chassis.

all touring cars just about, use the same wheel hex's are are therefore compatible. again, im using HPI wheels on my tamiya.

normally, wheels are a 0 offset, some tamiya stock wheels are -3. offset is the same as cars, but opposite. -3 is 3mm further in, +6, 6mm further out.

radio gear, just get what youre willing to spend. i had futaba JR which ozrc has for like $40 for a full set. recently upgraded to 2PL 2.4ghz so i dont have to worry about frequencies when i got to tuesday/thursday meetings, but it was $200 without for just a transmitter and receiver, no servo.

batteries depends on what motor you run a bit. i found my TT with a 19t ran for ages on a 3300mah NIMH battery.

when i changed to brushless, i was getting pretty shit run times, so upgraded to lipo, but you do need a fair bit more exxy charger. batteries are .2v more powerfull, run harder right up untill theyre "flat" and you get way more cycles out of them before they start to die (performance drops away).

do oz rc stock these tb03 and ta05, and how much do they go for??, i think im gonna drop into a hobby store and have a good long chat about whats what, etc. thanks for the reply dimitri, sort of get it and sort of have to do more homework.

are there any aus based drift rc forums i can read up on???

[corknose]

briz drift is good not sure if its alive. down under drift or something is another

[AE092]

With Li-Po battery packs, you can (recommended) get Li-Po 'cut-offs' so once the battery pack gets to a certain limit, it cuts out alot of the power to let you know that it now requires charging.

As for fitting bodies of different makes to different chassis, here's a tip. Before painting the body, place it over your chassis body mounts and with a permanent marker, mark out the dots for the body posts. This is once you have aligned/offset the wheels correctly. In some instances you may have to cut out the body.

[corknose]

yess everyone lissen to the man, mark out before or if u dont wanna risk it u can see in the pic i posted use velcro body mounts.

[slydar]

http://www.driftcity.org/forum/index.php

is the most active/relevant RC drift site for qlders.

OZRC does have both ta05 and tb03s in stock, but i got mine from O.S. (bought everything else at ozrc though)

my ESC is programmable, so i can set the cut off to suit my lipos. 3.2v/cell ;)

[AE092]

I agree with what's been said before here but yeh the TA05 is a very good chassis. It surpasses the TT01 by miles in terms of cost and adjustability. I had the TA05IFS version with some mods and it was great.

And Slydar, R/C's has come along way since the hey days when I began. You got brushless systems that are standalone and fully programmable. When I first got my ESC with a potentiometer (a knob you turn to adjust the power) I was over the moon lol.

And heres' another pic :P

http://i37.tinypic.com/16bhqow.jpg

[(OO)SKYLINE(OO)]

^^ R34 GTR Z-Tune looks TUFF!

I love how you made the intercooler out of cardboard LOL! It works well too.

The oil cooler intercooler piping and the tow hook looks nice.


Hi Jamie,

If I was you, I'd ditch the HPI RX-7 and get the Tamiya one :P It comes with the light buckets as well as the properly moulded wing: None of that lexan crap.

As for the wheels, yeh I had to paint the time attack lip on it. Once I did it and posted it up, everyone else seem to follow suit so that sucks.

As for the "bling" kit, HPI sells the accessories pack which includes the exhaust and intercooler
Yeah I should ditch the RX7 but I already cut it out LOL!

I probably just keep it, paint it up and use it as a practice bashing shell... That's 1 expensive bashing shell for like $50+ LOL!

I should not bother painting it then...

I probably just end up getting the Tamiya RX7 as the molding of the shell is just so much better.

Light Buckets? So it comes with Bucket Seats? Proper molded wing FTW!

Yeah I'd follow you too, on how you did the wheels, cuz TE37 Time Attack looks GREAT! At what you did.

I will give the local hobby store a call and see if they got bling kits in this week.

Cool!
:))

[AE092]

Yeh Tamiya kits nowadays come with lightbuckets front and rear and they come with little "holders" that holds the LED's in.

As for cost, most of my bodies get close to the $150 mark lol

[Low Style]

http://www.ultimatetamiya.com/cars/tt01/coppermix-silvia-kit/coppermix-silvia-kit-tt01.jpg

that is the car i have. I took all the stickers off and slammed it need better wheels

[DRFTR86]

how is it silver styler??

im thinking of just gettin the same tt01 coppermix s15 kit to begin with, as much as id love to get a tb03 or ta05, i cant justify the costs, when im sure the tt01 will do fine.

[Low Style]

how is it silver styler??

im thinking of just gettin the same tt01 coppermix s15 kit to begin with, as much as id love to get a tb03 or ta05, i cant justify the costs, when im sure the tt01 will do fine.

straight out of the box sliding fun! i reckon ment it. good base to start buying wheels and other parts.

i took my out of the box pulled the stickers off while charging my battery and once charged skided it! easy to use

[DRFTR86]

u buy a ready to drive kit by the sounds of it, im thinking of just buying the chassis kit, and starting from there

[Low Style]

yeah ready to drive isIt is a good car

[(OO)SKYLINE(OO)]

Yeh Tamiya kits nowadays come with lightbuckets front and rear and they come with little "holders" that holds the LED's in.

As for cost, most of my bodies get close to the $150 mark lol
Yeah cool! Thanks man!

http://www.ultimatetamiya.com/cars/tt01/coppermix-silvia-kit/coppermix-silvia-kit-tt01.jpg

that is the car i have. I took all the stickers off and slammed it need better wheels
I have the same kit too and was thinking of taking off the stickers and using it as a practice shell.


how is it silver styler??

im thinking of just gettin the same tt01 coppermix s15 kit to begin with, as much as id love to get a tb03 or ta05, i cant justify the costs, when im sure the tt01 will do fine.
As what silver styler said, I recommend it too.

Great for beginners and plenty of speed to start with.

[i2obert]

Ah look a new RC Section

and ae092 makes the best shells lots of time and effort

:P and his brother has a nice car :P


there is melb meets on east and west still once a week and a new comp starting again soon

[Low Style]

i will get some pics of mine tonight and put it in the rc rides thread

[Water Boy]

Id love to get a cool R/C but im sure they are not cheap...

[Low Style]

im thinking about selling mine as i never use it

[corknose]

they are cheap compared to a real car haha.

[wntdae86]

im thinking about selling mine as i never use it

get pics up and how much ??

[slydar]

Id love to get a cool R/C but im sure they are not cheap...

they are pretty cheap i think. 5-800 is not much to pay to get the basic enjoyment of drifting and tuning.

money better spent than an XBOX etc.

[shift_rook]

i paid 250 for mine secdond hand, extreme amount of fun, though the motor it has ir a real guzzler:D. ride height so so low, you needa basketball or a flat bit of conctrete. so worth it, more vic people need em, should have a drift meet,

[AE092]

Yeh I agree, they have regular meets in the westside.

I need to get my main drifter out and running, anyone bringing theirs for the dec 13th meet?

[Low Style]

just put mine up for sale i dont use it anymore bargin

[kAmbo]

just made a new shell for my fw-05T nitro drifter
http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs075.snc3/14243_339774820598_764690598_10164599_226362_n.jpg
http://photos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs075.snc3/14243_339774825598_764690598_10164600_7756814_n.jp g
http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs075.snc3/14243_339774830598_764690598_10164601_2805186_n.jp g

[ke55pig]

how the nitros go i love the sound of them that why i like the idea of nitro and are looking in to buyin a driftable nitro car

[Gunner]

Can be done, bit trickier though due to the extra weight, and the lack of instant torque. But with the right engine pipe combo, and set up, it can be done. Steering gyro's help alot.

[kAmbo]

booo steering gyro ftl :P
nothing wrong with them, slightly heavier as mentioned but the motor sound and smoke kills all of that off haha. its all up to tyre choice aswell, i use a .15 gxr motor which a decent size motor.

only problem with random nitros is that the set ups are most likely made for grip. also the chassis isnt evenly corner weighted (if thats how you say it). i had to roughly place a few fishing sinkers on my chassis to balance it out a bit as it understeered slightly turning left but spins out quicker turning right. also i had a front locked diff and rear open, had to change the diffs over and rebuild the open diff to become a LSD. good times though! specially when you hear 2nd gear pop when on the straights

[Gunner]

for corner weighting, I use 4 digital scales, and just adjust spring rates, till they are relatively even.

[kAmbo]

yeah 4 scales would be ideal, but i just throw a few weights on, take it for a spin and compare left to right turns and add more/remove more. btw its cheaper to use random fishing sinkers then buying weights at the hobby shop. they pretty much use the same ones as the ones used to balance a rim at a tyre shope. even asking for some at a tyre shop may be cheaper lol.

anyone used the "counter steer gear set"? basically spins the rear wheels faster letting you get more angle on counter steer. im looking to get a lower gear set for the rear diff ring gear, hopefully it works....

[slydar]

its for the "expert" steerers. way twitchier/harder to control. i havent tried it yet though.. but most CS drift footage is see, the cars are moving pretty slow.. might be a bit tricky with a nitro car.

there is a new CS set for the TT01, 1.85:1 over drive i think. tt01 diff gears should fit a tg10....

[Gunner]

I dont know about tt01, tb01 parts definitely fit though

[slydar]

TT is heavily based on TB01. ring gear/diff looks almost idetical.. except TB uses splined out drives. TT just has a flat key section (like the pinion on a TB/TG)

[Gunner]

ah k, good to know, I got my hands on the last tg i needed to finish my drifter, just need to find a cheap sirio for it

[domokun]

i did rc drifiting for 7 years or so some of my shells
jzx100mk2
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/0/1/7/32424.jpg
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/0/1/7/32425.jpg
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/0/1/7/32426.jpg
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/0/1/7/32427.jpg
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/0/1/7/32428.jpg

[slydar]

what brand is the s13? theyre all pretty nice man.

[domokun]

yokomo

[kAmbo]

nice detailing on the jzx100. i gave up on mine as shells on nitros dont last long haha. already cut a few holes here and there lol

[Hazzard]

I must ask,how much does a drift R/C car cost? and does any1 make ke70 shells? or has any1 seen them? cos i wanna get into it i just wouldnt mind building up a ghetto ke70 for an R/C car.

Cheers,
Hazzard

[domokun]

base setup about 300 bux no ke70 shells at all but chek genkidoridori.com as hes got pretty much all the shells you could want on there + other goddies

[corknose]

u were off briz drift right domokun? genkidoridori is a good site.

[domokun]

yup lots of info on ther well worth having a good read if ur just getting into it.

[domokun]

some new stuff coming onto the market it seems alot of companies are goin old skool
bodies:
tamiya 240zx
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/0/1/7/33459.jpg
yokomo yukes evox
http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/3342/kumakuboe.jpg
yokomo re ameaya(sp :P) fd
http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/1589/amemiya.jpg
surging mz12 soarer (yay)
http://hypnopix.free.fr//CATALOGUES-KRET1TEAM-FOFO-IDF-/SURGING/soa3a.jpg
abc hobby 430 cedric
http://www.abchobby.com/productimg/car/430ced/01.jpg

wheels:
streetjam advan a3a
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/0/1/7/33464.jpg
street jam small sized rims
http://hypnopix.free.fr//CATALOGUES-KRET1TEAM-FOFO-IDF-/STREETJAM/+.jpg
star sharks
http://www.sflrcdrift.com/images/news/streetjamwheels2b.jpg

[hachirusto]

that soarer looks really cool, im looking into getting a RC car, looking at one of the HPI RTR nitro 3 kits , probably going to get a chaser shell 1st then get a ae86

[domokun]

I recomemed electric over nitro for drifting much easier to matain and drift much better as a nitro is so heavy makes it quite hard to get any traction

[Gunner]

with nitros Run normal tires, with elec tape, or soak foamies in a pva/water solution, and let dry (dont last long). And normal on the front. And dont set them up as stiff either.

[Gunner]

or do what I am tryin to do, and get a .21 in the sucker, and just run normal tires

[jayvee]

well i sold my rc 3 years back was a ta04 trf , kontronick brushless motor.. ect.. too much to mention... was part of rcd1 but stopped due to money issues.. dam things worth 2 to 3 ke70s ..lol!...so sold it.. well heres pics (the r34 is a former member from rcd1 Trung)

good fun tho if i had the money i would build another 1!

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/9/4/8/33624.jpg
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/9/4/8/33625.jpg

[Low Style]

mine is for sale great starting base $275 2 batterys charger

[domokun]

Eat chassis?

[ke70astro]

I recently started a rc club in my local area
really took off there's about 30 guys with them
now I run a tt01 with a few hop ups ;)
I'll update some videos an pics of the events we hold
later.
If you live close to lismore an are keen might have
to check us out :) happens Tuesday nights
pm me if your interested

[dr1ft-pig]

yeah aaron im gonna fuckin school you tuesday

[Gunner]

what brand is that?

[Gunner]

it will be a .46 or .52, whats it worth?

[Gunner]

sam is the one you want for that, its petrol 2 stroke, you can buy big bore kits, billet heads, cranks and blocks, everything

[Gunner]

cant remember where though.

I'll have a go at getting power from it, can't be too hard. Would have to look at one in detail at first.

[dr1ft-pig]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IdXV5a1RhnI

heres a vid of my first rc drift comp, im driving the red altezza

[stx-16]

yooooo when the next one on "ballziller" should be going by then haha

[Nic19]

Hey guys I have a tt01d with a 4.5t brushless and it used to run fine not one problem but now it keeps spitting front dogbones out? Any help would be great. Also where do you guys get all your wheels???

[dr1ft-pig]

i have never had that problem man, www.spxracing.com for all your rc needs cheapest around

[stx-16]

Hey guys I have a tt01d with a 4.5t brushless and it used to run fine not one problem but now it keeps spitting front dogbones out? Any help would be great. Also where do you guys get all your wheels???

if your running a brushless you need to get a better car its like running a 1uz with a k50 its fun for 3mins then BANG

[Nic19]

nah the car is handling the power fine its just that on full lock the dogbones come out, they rnt cupped in properlly! i have 3 raching camber front arms wich i might change back to stock to try fix it. i need batteries tho but keep spending money on the real car

[shift_rook]

why have we not done any dori rc trains yet nic?

[Nic19]

cos im too tightass to buy batteries and tires lol and sort out the front end

[Gunner]

in the end of your drive cups, try running some orings that fit nice and snug, from memory shock seals work well. Also check for slop in the steering parts, and bearings. If its all a bit loose, replace it, plastic bits are cheap.

[Nic19]

But it's as if it has too much lock. Like on full lock the dogbones aren't captive. I am gonna get some stock arms and see if that helps.

[dr1ft-pig]

i had to cut down the foam pad on the front of mine as on lock my wheels were fouling it, and mines all stock, but dogbones never come out???

[Gunner]

it needs the orings. They even say it in the manuals.

[Gunner]

I should explain what is happening.

You have play in the dogbone, now with out the orings, when you go to lock, the dogbone has enough play to slide to one side, then as the drive cup rotates, it reaches a point, where one of the lugs on the dogbones comes out of its slot, as it rotates works its way out, and there you go. Its quite simple, and it will only cost you a dollar.

[i2obert]

DATE:28th of FEB
TIME:2PM - ON
WHERE:Monash Clayton rear Carpark (outdoors if nice day Undercover if not)
Comp Cost: Gold coin or NOTE
Prize for winner: 1st 40% of donations, 2nd 30% of Donations, 3rd 20% 4th 10% (YES CASH PRIZE BITCHS)

Track will be a tight track so this way brushless and sportstuned can both be good

ABS Tyres a must

And come to the Friday night meet for practice i prob will not be there but if all goes to plan the thursday night i will mark out a track my self as friday i have soundwave and saturday i pick up the new car that i will prob pick up dharvs in if he reads this and pms me about it



I thought i would post it here for now i cbf posting it melb section but yeah i use to run RCD1 back in melb and have been asked to start running evnets agian as the old owners after me fucked it all up :D so yeah here is a event if people want to post it on other forums cool cool

[dr1ft-pig]

got a link to theese ABD tyres??? i use drift daddys

[corknose]

its a type of pipe its black with blue stripes in it, go to bunnings and ask.

[StuC]

just seeing if anyone here would be interested in buying a TA03R chassis. Its the one i bought from here late last year. Carbon fiber top and bottom deck, rear sway bar, alloy servo mounts, aramid belt, different shocks/springs, 1way front diff. Will come with no electrics, batteries or wheels. I want to get something a little newer like a TA05. Looking around the $200 mark in Melb if anyone is interested.

Ill get pics and links etc later. If theres no interest ill keep it as a shelf queen and wait till tax time for the new one

[slydar]

nah the car is handling the power fine its just that on full lock the dogbones come out, they rnt cupped in properlly! i have 3 raching camber front arms wich i might change back to stock to try fix it. i need batteries tho but keep spending money on the real car

just get cvds. problem solved. if you buy them on ebay youll probably get them for less than $30 posted.

[kAmbo]

dog bones falling out.....you should have this thing between the dogbone and the cup which is like an o-ring. hell an o-ring will do. usually sits on the diff side. from memory the hub side does not have it.

[slydar]

remember though most TT01s are all plastic, the plastic wears and then everything call fall out a lot easier. if you wanna keep your chassis youre probably better off getting some cvds.

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-tt01-yeah-racing-steelalum-universal-shaft-tamiya-tt01e-tt015v2bu-p-25583.html

[StuC]

Heres some pics of the TA03r
the marks on the top carbon plate are from the double sided tape used on the ESC and transmittor. i tried cleaning it off but need some tea-tree or something to fully get rid of it. (i dont like chemicals) So it comes with alloy servo mounts and servo arm, turnbuckle top camber arms. I also noticed that there is a second position to move these to on the hub. You can have the allow wheel nuts too when i go buy a new wheel wrench to get the rims off.

Spares include original diff, body arms, alloy motor mount, original battery hold-down, metal motor pulley and a heap of screws.

[AE092]

Although abit dated, the TA-03 is a pretty dynamic chassis. You can have the motor mounted either at the front or rear, hell you can have a twin motored version.

[StuC]

yeah, TA03F, TA03R and the twin motor - The F + R utilize a slightly different gear casing but is available as conversion kits now. I just want to get something a little newer/less hardcore as im a retard/newbie at all of this stuff.

[AE092]

TA05 is very good! I've had a TA03/04/05 and the 05 is good for the money. Alot of places stock parts and they are adjustable from the get-go. Good luck with it.

[StuC]

thanks man - hope the 03 sells quickly then i just need to hang out till tax time. Have my eye on a v2 with hop-up kit. I want belt drive otherwise id just get the TT01R kit

[slydar]

hey man i actually have a TB03D with some hop ups. its shaft but the yok' gears fit so youve got heaps of options for CS.. lemme know if youre keen on a trade/partial trade.

[StuC]

was that directed at me slydar? If so, what does CS mean???you have to remember im a newb so have no idea on terminology. Are you saying you can convert it to belt drive?

[slydar]

yeah man, directed at you :) umm well basically, if youre just wanting something a bit more modern i was suggesting maybe a trade, TB03 for TA03. and CS means counter steer. its a new craze in rc drifting, where you have the rear wheels spinning faster than the front. i thought you might be wanting belt drive cos maybe you wanted the option of CS'ing the car. but yeah TB03 have heaps of options too.

anyway something to think about, a TB03 is basically the same as a TA05 version 2, just shaft drive.

[StuC]

cool - ill have a look into it and get back to you. what hop-ups does it have?

[slydar]

theyre all tamiya brand hop ups.

has front and rear carbon towers. front alu diff halves. front cvds (assembly shaft) 44mm in blue alu, alu spur gear holder, and a rear spool. pretty much everything i just bought to actually make it run better and more reliable.

it really just needs a lil bling and itd be a super nice/respectable chassis. i had a cart on rc mart filled with stuff for it. was only $100.. some trf shox, and then a bunch a 3Racing bling, F/r knuckles and a steering rack.

but yeah it is already a pretty dialled chassis to drive.

[StuC]

sounds pretty good - any pics?

[slydar]

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/1/8/549615.jpg

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/1/8/42841.jpg

[StuC]

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/1-10-Tamiya-TA03F-Mitsubishi-Lancer-WRC-RARE-NEW-/330429180885?cmd=ViewItem&pt=AU_Toys_Hobbies_Radio_Controlled_Vehicles&hash=item4cef1d2bd5
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Remote-Control-Car-Tamiya-TA03R-many-accessories-/300422841983?cmd=ViewItem&pt=AU_Toys_Hobbies_Radio_Controlled_Vehicles&hash=item45f298c67f

just found these - both look like a good deal!

Slyder - i've been busy and completely forgot about getting back to you. I think i might hang onto the TA03 due to its rarity/vintage and will shelve it

[StuC]

so i couldnt make up my mind whether or not to buy the ta03r above so i could have the bodies and spares. i should have and now regret it - who here bought it for a bargain of $170?

[slydar]

i dont think the R was really a bargain. i have my eye on the F but... its kinda pointless. will probably go for around $200. which isnt cheap.

[StuC]

but it is brand new and the Tommi Mac shell is sweet

[slydar]

if you feel like building something up its worth it. but youre better off just converting your R to F.

mine as it sits now - http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/1/8/43866.jpg

[StuC]

i didnt realise you already had an F- nice!
On a happier note i did manage to find a heap of hop-ups in stock for a decent price, including a ball - bearing set for $15 US.

[floody]

I reckon I might get back into this... Theres an R31houseXstreetjam R31 body shell coming apparently...

[Intense]

can get a whole bunch of cool shells from these guys http://www.abchobby.com/

I'm gonna try get the rx3 one

[StuC]

i have the rx3 shell but would love the te27, any celica or even the sunny ute. they're all fat

[KePanelVan]

anyone used anything like the stealth body mounts to get rid of the ugly body pin look?

[Intense]

you can use velcro so you dont need to cut shells or even run body pins

[southslide]

my piggy 85 jdm ae86 full s13 front end convo irs rear end a rando brushless making 8 TURNS OF POWER!!! rippin 18x10 yokomo's allday every day:DD you can see the mad dorifto damage throughout including the mass cut out front guards for the extra lock lol

[corknose]

worst body ever.

[southslide]

worst body ever.

iv had it for like 2 years lol most of the stickers have falen off and i hacked it to fit my nitro truck lol, made a ute body out of it yesterday. thinking of going and getting another body for it soon dunno what to get tho i did find a ke25 coupe body but its made for TRUE 1/10 scale that is smaller than the average 1/10 :(

[imprezd]

Im one of the crazy ones ive got an OB4 nitro 4wd drifter lol its crazy does nuts like you wouldnt belive lol

1301013009

[kriss]

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/2/5/1/1/550568.jpg

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/2/5/1/1/51709.jpg

[Barnsey]

Bought a nitro drifter the other day, had it started a few times tryna run it in but now I cant even get the bastard going again lol.... so havn't drifted it yet but I got a mad ae86 shell with some ssr's on it i'll post pics soon + an s15 shell to smash into things while im learnin.

wish I got an electric now so much more reliable..

[lovemy86]

some pics of mine

[StuC]

is that a battery bracket for a roll cage?

[lovemy86]

nah, just plastic welded the sprues to make a little cage.

[StuC]

So i pulled my car out again today. Last time i had looked at it i had tried to remove the cables out of the ESC to replace as they were haggered as hell. I couldnt get enough heat into the solder to even melt it and even using an external heat sink a fair bit of heat was building up. I had another crack tonight and failed agin so i just cut the wires short and joined from there.

i just recharged my battery and put some new batteries in the remote however im having some issues again. Full throttle all the time and i cant adjust the steering. i have servo going to ch2 and ESC to channel 1 on the receiver - is this right? What could be jamming the throttle? Throttle trim?
Im hoping i havent fried something in the ESC as its a now obsolete Novak GSX. I dont really want to pay for a new ESC or have this repaired as it involves sending it off to the USA. Anywhere here that could repair/test?

[StuC]

So i think my Tx/Rx are kinda dead which is causing the issue. I've rectified this by buying a hoped-up Ta03F off ebay with full running gear. Ill mix and match to get them both working and go from there. Next thing on the list is a couple more sets of rims/tyres and some motors to start playing around with more.
Ill put some pics up when i get it in the mail

[AE092]

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs036.snc6/166604_182964588408532_100000849761867_379249_2927 307_n.jpg

Power FC for the R/C! Just fine tuning the parameters and then trial run tomorrow, so far so good!

[AE092]

Got it set up baby!

http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=183659998338991

[hachidori]

edit.

[slydar]

just put a deposit on a TA05MS. pretty much have every touring car chassis i want now :)

[hao.]

How goes the TA05, Dimitri? I was going to buy one but a cheap XRAY T2-008 came up so I got that instead.

[floody]

Has anyone seen a source for the Streetjam R31 coupe body? I don't want the wagon...Coupe only seems to be part of the OTA-R31 package as far as I've seen?

[hao.]

:)

http://www.rc-race-and-drift-japan.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=104_105&products_id=2826

[slydar]

the dude sold it on me. i was going to use it for my counter steer project. thought the weight distribution might make it a bit easier to drive and more stable for counter steer than the front mid and for some reason i just dont like the VDF. a bit too plasticy (arms etc are normal ta05 kit type plastic not the nicer stuff like on the race kits).

my 03F though is pretty dialled. so is my 02. and my 01.. whilst not a "competitve" car is fun and interesting to drive. the MS is the last tamiya touring car i really wanted.. bummer.

[floody]

You beauty, thanks Hao!

[AE092]

Man, R/C drifting has come along way!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=wzTZKKrI1kQ#at=203

[Intense]

Finally got around to finishing off the shell I got almost a year ago, honda odyssey.
Chassis is a kyosho tf-5 (ball bearings, metal drive shaft, twin ball diffs shimmed up, 20 turn, 4000mah lipo)
Steers ok but I need to get new springs + a rear toe eliminator, then it'll be heaps more grippy and predictable. Haven't driven it with the new shell yet, probably going ot take it down to monash.

http://members.iinet.net.au/~awcabren/sharedimages/odyssey.jpg

[Damien]

19835

[Seano]

This is my current shell (running a tto1 chassis with heaps of hop up parts)
http://i47.tinypic.com/34dmz69.jpg
All my other shells
http://i48.tinypic.com/xpxatd.jpg
My chassis
http://i46.tinypic.com/70dtgl.jpg
And a shell i want to get
http://i49.tinypic.com/30rs5g8.jpg
Sorry for pic spam

[AE092]

http://i45.tinypic.com/smsv48.jpg

Anyone from Melb do the Monash drift? Dusted off the drifter and getting back into it if anyone wants a battle..