Buying mill/lathe tools.

[Frak]

Once you obtain a Mill or lathe the cost of tooling can be very expensive. For a second time I have delt with a company in Hong Kong called CTCtools, they are absolutely fantastic to deal with, on both occasions I ordered the parts and they arrived 5 days later!!!!

Customer service is excellent, with follow up emails etc, even though in the grand sceme of things I am only buying small monetary amounts off them.

The quality of the tooling is also excellent, I had a friend look at the stuff, he's a fitter and turner with probably about 35years in the trade, he said it was all good stuff. The price is about a quarter what you'd pay here for equivalent stuff. I highly recommend them and will be getting all susequent tooling from them.

pic of ER32 collet chuck and collet set.
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/2/1/9/31078.jpg (http://img294.imageshack.us/i/er32.jpg/)

[Tim.duncan]

noted. hope fully one day i will have a reason to buy lathe/mill tools

[Sam-Q]

I also have dealt extensively with C2C tools, I have so far bought the following:

MT2 to ER32 collet holder
MT3 to ER32 collet holder
R8 to ER32 collet holder
Int30 to ER32 collet holder
ER32 collet set
Digital edge finder

with a friend also buying these:

MT4 to ER40 collet holder
er40 collet set
digital edge finder
release spanner

excellent to deal with, the only minor thing you need to watch out for is that you get the collet release tool with the collet holder as sometimes it's separate. The digital edge finder is a life saver.

Another tool store worth knowing is Smith and arrow on ebay. They sell abrassives such as slitting disks which I just purchased a pack of 100. The slitting disks are unusually tough, I normally twist disks more than I should during the diff conversions I do and these just don't seem to readily break. I am just about to try their 350mm drop saw blades, sanding disks, flapper wheels and a sanding backing pad

[Frak]

Thanks for that Sam. I think a digital edge finder may be on my list :)

[Sam-Q]

I dont know how you can go without it, its cheap and easy. Get the one with the light though.

Sadly there are not that many machinists on this forum

[corknose]

i am i just use a mechanical edge finder would be cool too get a electric one how much?

[Sam-Q]

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NEW-ELECTRONIC-DIGITAL-LED-EDGE-FINDER-CNC-MILLING-B01_W0QQitemZ380182988179QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_BnI _Woodworking_Metalworking?hash=item5884ac0593

you will never want to go back

[Frak]

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NEW-ELECTRONIC-DIGITAL-LED-EDGE-FINDER-CNC-MILLING-B01_W0QQitemZ380182988179QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_BnI _Woodworking_Metalworking?hash=item5884ac0593

you will never want to go back

Thanks, just ordered one and a few other bits and pieces :))

[Tim.duncan]

i wouldent say i was a machinists as im only a maintenance fitter but i try and get out on the lathe every now and then. im hopefully booking in to do a night time tafe course on advanced machining at the start of next year. i have looked into getting my own mill but the i just dont have the funds...or the room at the moment

[Sam-Q]

oh I mean a machinist in the practical sense not officially as a job title, I until a little while ago was an electrician and I love machining. In due time when my monster mill is running I want to put a 2 or 3 axis dro on it and then buy a rotating table with a bolt on 3 jaw chuck. This is what I have been preparing to machine up on the tafe machines I have access to:

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/2/5/2/31255.jpg

I highly suggest the tafe course, it's where I learn't everything. Whats your location?

I understand all too well the funding issue, it's taken me a while to get where I am now but I have quite a bit to go. The DRO will cost me about $1000 and I would be happy if I managed to run three phase to my workshop for less than double that. The other problem is the cheap mills that are made in China are really pathetic, like completely embarrassingly bad. Infact all of the models in Hare and forbes seem to be shody, even the huge ones from the reports I have heard and what I have seen myself.

Frak: let me know how that works out, so if you don't mind me asking what else did you get?

Another suggestion is this kit:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/20pce-10-pairs-Precision-Milling-Machine-Parallel-Set_W0QQitemZ350290503060QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_BnI _Woodworking_Metalworking?hash=item518ef0e594

http://i.ebayimg.com/14/!BfWgnew!Wk~$(KGrHqIOKiYErymrQ)eNBL!6mvRhW!~~_12.J PG

It's a parallel set that has pairs of each size in steps from short as onwards. Because they are fairly narrow it's almost always possible to have 2 of these in a vice on each side under a piece of work so it's well supported. I have this set myself and their really neat to use.

[corknose]

nice nice i need some skinney parrelles i have 10mm up the sizes i made them and could be fked doing it again, and have needed skinney ones alot.

go grays online i got a genuine bridgeport mill for 200 bucks just fixed up some wiring and wala. we have some pretty shitty mills at work they dont have much torque but they are ok they are maximart.

[Tim.duncan]

sam im in adelaide

check out this for some crazy machining fun

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?board=22.0

i havent used a mill for about 2 years as my current job dosent have one. man i dident realize how much i would miss it. I want to do the courses to make sure i dont forget the little i already know

[Sam-Q]

well there goes atleast an hour! some really informative pics in that forum, I will need to dedicate more time to it so thanks for the link

It's easy to pick up how to use a mill again once you have been reminded what all the levers and dials do.

[takai]

Ironically while ive done stacks of work on lathes, i have never touched a mill in my life.

Nor do i own a lathe anymore. We had one out on the farm my parents had, but it was a 2.5ton unit, with a 550mm (12in) swing over base :o Couldnt really take it with us.

[Sam-Q]

wow you wouldn't mail that one with you

[takai]

Nah, not even really transportable.
The shed that it was in had the 17hp motor in the roof cavity, with a sodding big leather belt to drive it.
Had about 20thou play in the slides too :)

[Sam-Q]

far out, remember no dirty imperial talk here :)

[takai]

Bah, all the lathes i get to use these days are Impies.

Thinking about buying my own one though, considering getting a little mini lathe, and then still using larger ones as need be.

[corknose]

i hate at work when the old guys talk metric then go oh take 50 thou of this,

[Sam-Q]

Bah, all the lathes i get to use these days are Impies.

Thinking about buying my own one though, considering getting a little mini lathe, and then still using larger ones as need be.

anyone ever tried a Chinese lathe? I wonder if they are bad as their mills. Hey Chris why don't you buy a second hand Hercus like me:

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/2/5/2/31456.jpg

http://s-86.com/s-garage.html

super easy to bolt a single phase motor on like what I did, usually very affordable and almost all the spares can be bought new, even for this old girl (1952!). The head stock inside diameter is a bit limiting though and so is the speed range but I may have a fix for that.

[corknose]

i hate those things so in accurate. u push the tool post and cutts deeper.

[Sam-Q]

the Hercus or the chinese models? both?

[corknose]

i got no idea only used one and refuse to use again.

[Sam-Q]

ok did it look like the one pictured? because it shouldn't do that

[Tim.duncan]

The head stock inside diameter is a bit limiting though and so is the speed range but I may have a fix for that.

4age 20v? im sure that will fix the speed range!

ever looked into a smithy lathe mill combo? aparently there pretty good for a home set up. i think you have to import them from the states which might cost though?

[Sam-Q]

hahahaha, don't know about those, the problem with things like that is they end up being two compramised bits of equipment instead of one decent one.

[takai]

What sort of money did you pay for the Hercus Sam?

I generally keep an eye out on eGay, but there isnt much available.

[Sam-Q]

$700, from there I bought a new single phase motor- $150 and a new cross slide nut for $75. I am going to buy a 160mm 4 jaw independant chuck for it as it came with a decent amount of bits including a 125mm 3 jaw and interestingly an original self centering 4 jaw which is uncommon to say the least.

Do a search for Lathe on ebay, select within 50km of your postcode and save your search. Patience really pays off here.

What is driving me nuts is I have some brass rod thats 20.6mm in diameter which I want to machine down, however my headstock is 20.3mm. I think I will reduce the diameter down to 20mm at my tafe so I can use it, either that or chop it into 250mm sections so I can grab it in my chuck.

[Sam-Q]

Just remembered I also bought some change gears for around $150. If you want to cut metric threads then it's probably not worth getting a Hercus as the the change gears you will need will cost too much unless they come with it.

[takai]

$700, from there I bought a new single phase motor- $150 and a new cross slide nut for $75. I am going to buy a 160mm 4 jaw independant chuck for it as it came with a decent amount of bits including a 125mm 3 jaw and interestingly an original self centering 4 jaw which is uncommon to say the least.

Do a search for Lathe on ebay, select within 50km of your postcode and save your search. Patience really pays off here.

What is driving me nuts is I have some brass rod thats 20.6mm in diameter which I want to machine down, however my headstock is 20.3mm. I think I will reduce the diameter down to 20mm at my tafe so I can use it, either that or chop it into 250mm sections so I can grab it in my chuck.

Yeah, these are the sort of prices i like. All the stuff over here is either the cheap Chinese stuff (C1/2/3) or $2k+

[Sam-Q]

The thing is I don't trust how solid the toolposts are in the chinese models, nor the parts availability. Thats why I asked on here if someone had used them before.

My lathe does have its limits though, apart from the bore diameter I can at most do a 2mm cut at once with my sharp Seco turning tool bit holder, it very much lets me know if it doesn't like it and changing speeds is a total pain in the neck. What I am thinking of doing is buying a variable speed drive and then change the motor end pulley to be larger. One thing I really do like about it though is that it has a Spindle lock, so I can lock up the whole head with a lever and then do whatever I like, like for example tap the middle of something. I should show my die holder I made up.

Also this thing looks bigger than what it really is in the picture. It's 120mm or so from the center to bed and 500mm between centers.

[Frak]

Just remembered I also bought some change gears for around $150. If you want to cut metric threads then it's probably not worth getting a Hercus as the the change gears you will need will cost too much unless they come with it.


Look for a Hercus 260 **M, these are metric. mine is a ATM model so it has the gearbox on it and Metric. With a metric thread chasing dial you can just about any thread.

[Frak]

What is driving me nuts is I have some brass rod thats 20.6mm in diameter which I want to machine down, however my headstock is 20.3mm. I think I will reduce the diameter down to 20mm at my tafe so I can use it, either that or chop it into 250mm sections so I can grab it in my chuck.


If need be I can get 27mm through the spindle.

[Sam-Q]

if that was an offer for help then thanks but I have access to another lathe at my local TAFE.

[Frak]

if that was an offer for help then thanks but I have access to another lathe at my local TAFE.


Yeah it was :)

[Sam-Q]

all good but thanks

[takai]

What do you guys think of these two:
http://www.paramountbrowns.com.au/bench-metal-lathe-450mm-bc/
or
http://www.paramountbrowns.com.au/metal-lathe-stand-610mm-bc/

[Sam-Q]

well the specs seem surprisingly good for machines of that size, however the 0.55kw (3/4 horse) on the first one is a little on the small size, it probably won't cause an issue for 95% of the work you do though. So I guess it comes down to how sturdy the toolpost is.

[takai]

Yeah, the specs do seem quite good. although the second one is a pretty reasonable size.

Talking to machining people over here, it seems that finding a Hercus or Southend in a reasonable condition is like needle in a haystack atm.

[Frak]

Talking to machining people over here, it seems that finding a Hercus or Southend in a reasonable condition is like needle in a haystack atm.

Funny you should say, when I got my Hercus 260, I had about a dozen people ask if I'd sell it....of course the answer was NO!!

It's amazing the things you do when you have one!

[takai]

Believe it or not, im actually considering getting one of those little C3 mini lathes. They arnt terribly big, but then again neither is what i generally do.
I also have pretty much unlimited (but across the other side of Adelaide) access to a much larger lathe (400 swing) which ive done brake rotors an the like on.

You seem to be able to buy enough other stuff for the mini lathes to make it worthwhile too.

That said im still going to phone and check out what Redwoods has on Monday, and my father in law is asking his mate whether he still wants to sell his lathe (no idea what size/type).

[Sam-Q]

what type of stuff do you want to do anyway?

[takai]

Its all mainly small fab stuff, biggest stuff ive had need to do in years is brake parts. But then i can do those on another lathe.
Most of it is <100mm OD.

Im keeping an eye on a couple of the cheapie C3 sized lathes, while investigating other options too.

Would love to get away with it for $1k.

[Sam-Q]

link to the C3 your looking at?

[takai]

One like this one: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270502801457&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

They are selling them brand new fixed price at Paramount browns for $790

[Sam-Q]

well it's good they are blunt with how much you can cut off at a time: 0.25mm. It will work for small job with enough patience.

[takai]

Yeah, i know. The problem is that there isnt anything between those little ones (and thats the biggest of them) and the 250/280mm suckers i posted on the last page.

A Hercus or SouthBend would be great. As said before, checking a second hand place tomrorow, but when i read stuff like this: http://steammachine.com/hercus/index.html i get grumpy, as i really dont want the headache.

From everything i can tell this is the same unit as the ebay one here:
http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_lathe/Reviews/Big_dog/bigdog2.htm

[takai]

Ah, found a slight issue with the mini machines. Stock 3" jaws can only spin up 2.5" workpiece. You need a bigger chuck for other stuff.... which is hard to come by.

[takai]

If anyone is still following this, back to looking at the two from Paramount Browns on the last page. The 610 and 450mm ones.

[Sam-Q]

wouldnt it be able to grab bigger than 2.5" with the reverse jaws?

so whats the verdict on them in your personal opinion?

[takai]

Verdict is that i think they are good for the size they are specced at.


3" 3-Jaw
Through 5/8" (.625)
Inner 1.15
Outer 2.75

Thats the specs of the stock 3" jaw version.

The problem is that once you have to start buying all the other bits for them, the bigger chucks, tail rests, tailstock live center, tailstock chuck, 5" faceplates etc, they come very damn close to the price of the bigger ones which come with all that to start with.

Plus they are a 3/8" tooling, and as such are pretty limited.

[orange32]

wouldnt it be able to grab bigger than 2.5" with the reverse jaws?

so whats the verdict on them in your personal opinion?

If you want to reverse the jaws on a three-jaw, you'll need different jaws, unless they have a different design to the ones I use.

[Frak]

If you want to reverse the jaws on a three-jaw, you'll need different jaws, unless they have a different design to the ones I use.


you are correct.

4 jaw independant, just reverse the jaws

[takai]

The 3jaw comes with both, but they are still puny, and as they arnt large the engagement isnt huge either, so you cant extend them out as much as you can on the larger units.

[Sam-Q]

Takai: oh so thats why, I was wondering why it was so little

Orange: correct however almost all new lathe have both sets of jaws

[takai]

Im pretty much narrowing it down to one of the 280x610 lathes.
Bit more than i want to spend though.

[takai]

Sam: since i remember that you live around Dandy what do you think of Asset Plant and Machinery?
Looking at one of these from them:
http://www.machines4u.com.au/view/?advert_id=995&industry_id=2&category_id=36&subcategory_id=678&keywords=&location=&cndtn_Used=1&cndtn_New=1&page=1

[takai]

Ah, i have a lead on an AL320G which wil be going within my price range. Comes with a whoel bunch of stuff too.

Still looking at that Steelmaster 9x20 though.

[Frak]

Takai, how'd ya go with your lathe?

[takai]

I found a second hand AL320G from H&F, Its a chinese lathe, but seems pretty well supported and the guy who is selling it is doing me a great deal.

[Sam-Q]

pics!!

[takai]

Havnt gone to pick it up yet, infact no money has changed hands. But he is a fellow racer (albiet Superkarts).
Hoping to pick it up this weekend.

Its this one though:
https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/images/53681.jpeg
https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Products?stockCode=L141#

320x600mm with all the tooling and bits i need. Plus the stand with a modified integral coolant drain, and all the handles have been replaced with custom knurled aluminum ones.

[Sam-Q]

thought you guys might be interested I bought one of these:

http://i7.ebayimg.com/03/i/001/27/60/8e16_12.JPG

it's a poor mans DRO.

Linky:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380187445965&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

First up the first surprise was it arrived a single day after I ordered and paid for it on the 23th, I don't even know how that shits possible but yeah. Second surprise is that the thing is seriously solid. The scale part that is, it has a decent weight to it and feels well made, well except for the plate on the back of the scale, thats on a bit crooked. Those Chinese are funny sometimes, they go out of their way to make something nice and then stuff up on the easy part. I expected a modified digital Vernia scale but this is much chunkier, it's quite impressive. Anyhow I am in the middle of mounting the slide on my little lathe and I should be finished tomorrow. I am putting it on the Y axis only as I see that's the one that gives me the most grief.

I also managed to do a deal and get a 1.1kw three phase motor pre-wired to a variable speed drive with an external control box that has an off/forward/reverse & speed switch on it for 0 to 2800 revs. I managed to get the package for $50 which I think is pretty good. This should make my life easier on my lathe. I also learnt today that tool steel parting blades make a decent sound when they snap in half, oops!

Lastly a side note: I just want to rant about machining recesses in cro-mo pipe for slim wall bearings (25/37/7). I have it fit tight to the point where the balls are restricted, I then push on the boring bar with my thumb and the bearing can fall in and out.... aaahrg!! anyone got any tips? I am going to try and boring out my lathe chuck itself to make it more even and also use my new motor when I fit it to turn it at a much higher speed.

[takai]

Ive used sandpaper in the past to assist with the removal of the final bit of material.
Just spin it up with a chunk of sandpaper on the end of a stick and go for gold.

[Sam-Q]

yeah tried that, I will keep doing it until I got I get it right thanks

[takai]

That looks like a decent DRO too, ill keep it in mind for the future. Dont think ill need a DRO just yet though.

[Sam-Q]

well for $111 all up delivered it seems decent, you need room on your lathe/mill to mount it too. If you are getting that Lathe Chris I do suggest this very product, sure a 3 axis professional DRO is a possibility but I think the Y axis is the most wanted read-out for lathe and this should be me a great deal.

I will post a pic of how I crudely modded this product to fit on my machine when I am done. I have to say I don't like drilling into my lathe to tap holes into it. I mean it's survived the last 60 years without having any decent gouges in it and here I am putting my drill onto it.

I have to say I like this thread, there is no enough talk about machining in these forums

[takai]

Yeah, and i have the bonus of being able to pick up locally. However, im already overy my budget by $500 so ill hold off on the DRO.
Wouldnt mind a pair for X and Y.

[Frak]

Sam, looks like those guys are local for me, looks like I'll be picking one up this week!!

Stuff like this is great once you start using it, you wonder how you did without it!

Good find and cheap :)

[Sam-Q]

the ozmestore1 warehouse? if so thats unusual that they allow pickup. Anyway I finished my install today and it seems to work well. The interesting part is the external screen works independently of the slide screen. You don't need a battery in the slide for the external screen to work still. I now noticed they have a dirt cheap but lower grade unit for sale thats 600mm that I might be interested in

[Frak]

I'm not sure if they allow pickup, but seeing that their in Adelaide, I'll shoot them an email. Otherwise just have to get off fleabay.

[Sam-Q]

well here is how I did it:

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/2/5/2/33151.jpg
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/2/5/2/33152.jpg

I know it's crude but it should work well.

Now I need to make an adjustable panel that will hold this readout, my VSD controller and anything else I want, probably a dedicated light instead of a portable light hanging off the conduit overhead like I have now.

[Frak]

Sweet job, definately will be getting one!

[takai]

Yah, very nice job.
Ozmestore definately allow pickup, their warehouse is up in Port Adel. Only between 10-3 though, which is a bit of a pain. Nice guys too.

[Frak]

Went into General Tools today, picked up a few bits and pieces, they were very helpful.

[Mr Awsome]

sam that place you got that DRO from has some whicked shit, well priced to.

[Sam-Q]

yeah they have been around for a while, another really good one is this:

http://i11.ebayimg.com/01/i/001/01/33/2d3d_12.JPG

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/28PCE-3-32-1-2-TRANSFER-PUNCH-SET-NEW_W0QQitemZ270508043897QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_BnI _Woodworking_Metalworking?hash=item3efb892e79

"transfer punch set", lets you punch the middle of a hole every time. I find that having it imperial doesnt matter so much because there is such a large range, I can usually find something close enough.

[takai]

Yeah, im picking up a heap of gear from them tomorrow. New boring bars and indexable cutters and a new set of those transfer punches, as my last set are at least 40 years old.

[Frak]

Sam the have a 2 axis dro for about $179....I think I'll go with that :)

[Sam-Q]

yeah I saw that later on, it's new and I will probably go with that.

Something that I have found since using it a bit that you might like to know is that even though it would of looked weird I maybe should of sat it even further away from my bed. It does get in the way a little in the fact when I want to spray some lube on a part I am boring I don't want to get it over the electronics. Also I think I need to make a nice dust cover as I do a bit of brass machining and it comes off with some pretty fine particles which go everywhere.

You know I was thinking the el-cheapo dro type scales are seriously cheap, I am thinking if they might be good for other uses, like making my own toe adjustment machine or something like that. I guess I could just bolt something to the ends of a vernier for each side of that though.

Edit: hey Frak use a gluegun on the plug into the scale unit, its not the most secure connection

[takai]

Picked up my gear this morning, and had a quick look at the 2axis DRO, looks like a nice bit of kit.

Now i just have to get a lathe back to my place on Saturday in 41deg heat :(.

[takai]

Another aside, what parting tools do you guys use?
Ive been using a Glanze style tool:
http://www.oficina-digital.com/catalog/images/parting%20tool.gif
But its always been a bit chattery and the actual blade (not carbide tip) is bent. So im going to need a new one (and leave this one with my mate).

What do people use?

[Sam-Q]

basically a piece of crap. It's a stop gap measure which holds a 12.7mm piece of tool steel, I need something new.

[takai]

Ah yeah. I still like the Glanze units, but damn they are expensive.

Also in my trip out to ozmestore today i forgot that they had cheap pilot drillbits and cheap MT3 chucks.... ohwell, another trip coming up.

[takai]

I promised pics when i got it in, so here it is:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/29622-1/IMG_0993_s.jpg

300kg of Hafco Metalmaster AL320G, upgrades are too many to name. But a few of the obvious ones that the previous owner has done are:
- alloy/brass handles for everything
- saddle stop/dial indicator mount
- ways protector (wood) for changing chucks
- ways swarf protector (bolted to the slide)
- coolant drain in the tray, leading to a pot underneath
- sturdier toolpost, with better bolts

And the first thing i got around to turning up:
http://gallery2.plebeians.net/d/29628-1/IMG_0995_s.jpg

Sort of, gave up after about 30mins because it was too bloody hot in the garage.

[Sam-Q]

wow that doesn't look like a toy at all unlike that C3 thing. So how was it in it's initial use?

Thought I would post a pic of my non operational mill here:

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/2/5/2/33906.jpg

I know very little about it and it doesn't run yet. I need to run some three phase power to it, which is low in my list of priorities.Crappy pic was taken without a head or the hydraulics bolted up.

Also I picked up this today:

http://i.ebayimg.com/09/!Bj!LjFg!Wk~$(KGrHqQOKkIEsnMU-pu8BLRq1J8Cjw~~_3.JPG

I hope it's decent, it should be though as I have used Vertex dividing heads before and they have been excellent.

[takai]

Its really good, i had a few teethign issues with it like tool heights and not having any 8mm allen keys around, but they were easily settled, and now i have it all running.

With carbide bits it machined that chunk of 50mm round down to what you see there in under 30mins including all the dicking around finding 3.5 or 4mm bits of bar to use as tool spacers.

Next purchase is a drill press, as my current one is giving up the ghost. The little motor is smoking away and dying, so i think ill just shell out for a new press entirely and use this as a tap jig.

How much was that rotary table though, im interested in one eventually.

[Sam-Q]

sounds great, you could do as I am going to do in that I plan on making a draw under the tray with segments, then with each tool I will have the accessories such as the undo tool, tips and the shim pre-machined to be the be exact height. I don't see a real big need for a quick change post when I have it set up like that. Keep us updated on how it works for you ok?

The rotary table was off ebay on a buy it now, I bought it for $250 normally its $363. I had a saved search for a whole year until this one came up.

https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Products?stockCode=R006


Do not buy this:

https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Products?stockCode=R003

https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/images/7862.jpeg

despite its price it has an insane amount of slop in it, its not even good for rough work.

[Tim.duncan]

aarrrgghhh why do i read this thread, i want to go blow lots of money on machienery now!

i have a few jobs that i want to get done but i dont have acces to a mill, i have enlisted in a advanced milling night corse at tafe which starts in feb so that should be fun, might be able to sneek a few homers in perhaps he he