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View Full Version : Hooking up a 4age 16v RWD cooling system



keimeier
21st March 2010, 10:16 PM
was told motor was converted but later found out it wasnt still all fwd components, is there a way to customize them to make it work?

can someone point me in the right direction? a good site, some pictures

for example found this on daveys blog

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_VnHuuVXP4_A/SVoD5jRcrKI/AAAAAAAAAF4/rss5_wnqeok/s1600/4agze%2Bwater%2Bsystem%2Bcconverstion.jpg

would this work on NA smallport 16v? although i have the ae82 thermostat?

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/3/7/6/6/40155.jpg

cheers

Sam-Q
21st March 2010, 10:19 PM
copy the first picture and your set

keimeier
21st March 2010, 10:55 PM
thanks man so i need an ae92 thermostat housing instead of an ae82 as i have already? cant make the 82 one work?

keimeier
21st March 2010, 10:56 PM
and this is fine on an 4age no difference in 4agze example?

Sam-Q
21st March 2010, 11:52 PM
yeah easy to adapt, here is a diagram for you:

http://s-86.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=37

all it means is a slight change of hosing

keimeier
22nd March 2010, 01:02 AM
thanks for your help mate most helpful

keimeier
23rd March 2010, 08:20 PM
hey sam q

i will chuck some pics up in next few days up if u could just check that would be great

cheers

Sam-Q
23rd March 2010, 08:32 PM
yeah sure thing

keimeier
23rd March 2010, 09:27 PM
thanks mate

keimeier
24th March 2010, 07:13 PM
is this right?

thanks again mate!

http://photos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs416.snc3/25102_423560018377_533003377_5312621_6962960_n.jpg

http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs456.ash1/25102_423560023377_533003377_5312622_5492116_n.jpg

http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs456.ash1/25102_423560028377_533003377_5312623_2352759_n.jpg

http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs416.snc3/25102_423560038377_533003377_5312624_4410160_n.jpg

ke70dave
24th March 2010, 08:10 PM
that looks like what ive done to mine mate,

and the pipe coming out of the back of the head goes via your heater.

Sam-Q
24th March 2010, 08:44 PM
yeah as above it's all right but one. You have made a radiator bypass. Are you going to run a heater?

keimeier
24th March 2010, 10:33 PM
nah mate wont be running heater. car is for track purposes. so i that okay?

thanks for your help :)

Sam-Q
25th March 2010, 07:11 AM
well then undo the hose off the back of the head and off the water pump and plug them seperately. Or chop the hose in the middle and put plugs in either end.

keimeier
25th March 2010, 01:21 PM
sorry i am a little unsure of what u mean? can you draw rough diagram please

wont it work like this?

keimeier
25th March 2010, 03:16 PM
ive had a look at a few others and this seems to be the go??

keimeier
25th March 2010, 04:36 PM
http://www.18rg.com.au/tech/Rear_water_outlet_installed_explained.jpg

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/3/7/6/6/40373.jpg

Nic19
25th March 2010, 05:19 PM
i could sell you my whole external thermostat set-up with all lines and everything with bracket if u want?

Sam-Q
25th March 2010, 06:10 PM
no in the other pictures it's different but it's subtle. You have connected a pipe from the thermostat to the back of the head, this is not an option. There is meant to be a heater core inbetween, without it your have a radiator bypass. You need to block both ends seperately

I can edit a pic if need be

ke70dave
25th March 2010, 06:45 PM
hey sam i understand what you mean

but is there any reason why he has to block them off?

im not sure on how the water runs in 4age (i just copied a pic on the net to do mine...) but if its as a "Radiator bypass" then its just the same as having the heater tap open all the time? (without the heating of the interiour, and extra "Cooling" of your coolant).

im just thinking if you leave it on like he has it, then there is more water circulating the head, less chance for hot spots? (if hot spots are reality that is).

ps, im pretty sure that the first picture in this thread is wrong? (after some research) also playing with my cooling system im fairly certain that hte water flows into the radiator from the top hose?

keimeier
25th March 2010, 09:54 PM
thanks for replies. im sorry i am totally confused now...i had a look tonight at AE70 setup and was exactly the same as first picture and he wasnt running heater core? isnt that how i have done mine? if you could edit a pic that would be fantastic!

p.s. sorry i admit i dont have much knowledge of the mechanical side of things but learning... :)

cheers

Sam-Q
25th March 2010, 10:03 PM
ke70dave: the heater core is in parallel with the radiator, it bleeds some of the water off the cooling system and returns it, it's a restricted flow and it cools the water so it has no issues. However if you just bypass it you have a 5/8" pipe that just goes from the top to the bottom radiator hose. I was wrong before about one thing, the top pic is wron but only if you dont look at the crude crawing of a heater core in the system.

keimeier: have a look about the heater core drawing in the first drawing, I will draw you a diagram

keimeier
25th March 2010, 10:10 PM
will do thanks mate

Sam-Q
25th March 2010, 10:16 PM
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/2/5/2/40405.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/albums/p143/daunderdweller/temp/?action=view&current=cooling.jpg)

ok number 1 normally goes to the heater flow control tap, 2 goes to the heater core. If your not running a heater you have to block them both independantly

keimeier
25th March 2010, 10:24 PM
thank you very much. so just cut and plug both ends? wont that reduce water flow of the head?

Sam-Q
25th March 2010, 10:25 PM
yeah that's pretty much ideal

keimeier
25th March 2010, 10:27 PM
all right no worries ill go with that! thanks again for your help :)

Nikkojoe
26th March 2010, 05:15 PM
Why not leave the heater tap connected to the hoses but no core connected (just keep the tap closed at all times)?

The thing im probably concerned with your setup is the thermostat is too far back and might be in the way of the steering column.

keimeier
26th March 2010, 10:17 PM
how about that?

http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs073.snc3/14117_424294758377_533003377_5325941_7534569_n.jpg

http://photos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs073.snc3/14117_424294763377_533003377_5325942_8381705_n.jpg

http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs073.snc3/14117_424294768377_533003377_5325943_7101061_n.jpg

Hen may possibly be a nut
27th March 2010, 02:36 AM
The water outlet on the back of the head (with the brown and green sensors in it) looks really long. Have you checked for clearance when the motor's installed. Others may be able to say if it'll be an issue or not.

If you do need to swap, the one shown in the very first picture in this thread fits in an AE86 with stock mounts. AE82 twin cams have an even lower profile one from memory.

Hen

keimeier
27th March 2010, 12:44 PM
i hope it clears doesnt really mater. its jus a pig any way ill cut or bash the f***k out of the firewall hahaha

keimeier
27th March 2010, 01:44 PM
is this right now samQ?

Sam-Q
28th March 2010, 09:30 AM
yeah sorry for the delay, yeak looks great and good work.

Nikkojoe : In theory thats possible but first up he would have to get hoses to suit, second you would have to disconnect the cable as it would be pretty embarassing if his engine ran hot when he or someone else accidently put his heater switch to the hot position

keimeier
28th March 2010, 01:40 PM
thanks samQ for all your help!

james :)

Nikkojoe
28th March 2010, 11:38 PM
yeah sorry for the delay, yeak looks great and good work.

Nikkojoe : In theory thats possible but first up he would have to get hoses to suit, second you would have to disconnect the cable as it would be pretty embarassing if his engine ran hot when he or someone else accidently put his heater switch to the hot position

Yeah I don't see how its hard to get hoses to suit, just get a roll of fresh heater hose and go nuts :). I may be doing something similar on my track car, but no one will be driving it other than me :P

Sam-Q
29th March 2010, 12:22 AM
well it's not but if something is already there then I dont why to not use it. Besides this may cause you to bust your seal on your heater flow control tap, they arn't the best stock and with the extra flow it might send the old hardened O ring flying, your risk..

I don't get it though, your going out of your way to make something more compromised? just plug it?

Nikkojoe
29th March 2010, 12:54 AM
I don't think it will be much of a problem, if anything it would be by-passing already. The above setup is much the same anyway, blocking off with hose... just get the thing welded up closed, no potential leaks ever.

It's not much of my concern atm, mainly finding a suitable water path for cooling my turbo on the 4agte is more of an issue.

Sam-Q
29th March 2010, 01:02 AM
well that makes things simple, just use those two connections for your water cooled core and that's all you need, two problems solved in one

Nikkojoe
29th March 2010, 01:05 AM
Would it be though? Thinking about it, hot water flows out from back of head, into turbo, water gets hotter, out of turbo into side pipe (rwd 4ac spec) then the hot water is pumped back into block to circulate again? (thats how i see it anyway?)

Im sure it would eventually go into radiator, but doesn't seem that efficient if you know what i mean.

With the heater core there, it would have some sort of cooling before it re-entered again.

Sam-Q
29th March 2010, 01:10 AM
well that's how all cars are though, sure it's hot water but it's still cooler than the core, or atleast meant to be. Some less efficient truck water to air intercoolers used to use a simular arangement but through the main passage.

Nikkojoe
29th March 2010, 01:17 AM
Maybe i'm just thinking about it too hard, or the fact that i've not had much sleep :P I guess the more i think about it, all would be around the same temp so it wouldn't make too much of a difference.

But yes, initially was just to use the old heater lines.

Sam-Q
29th March 2010, 07:03 AM
trust me it will be fine

ke70dave
29th March 2010, 10:09 AM
also remember that if your thermostat is working well, and your radiator is working well. then the all the water in the engine should be pretty close to the same temperature. thats the purpose of the thermostat, to keep the coolant temperature pretty constant, and thus keep the engine temp pretty constant.

of course there will be "hot" bits and "cold" bits but these shouldnt vary by more than 10-15degrees or so. (maybe a bit more, but it certainly shouldnt be boiling)

also remember that your turbo is going to be a whole lot hotter than the water that is flowing through it.

turbo might be 200+ degrees (if its glowing, its around 800deg, so its bloody hot either way), and you are flowing water through it that may vary from 80-100 degress. heat transfer relies on temperature differences, and there is going to be a pretty massive delta T weather the turbo sees 80 deg water or 100 deg water.

so im with sam, it will be fine.

also i dont like the idea of using that dodgy tap to block the pipe!!

Hen may possibly be a nut
29th March 2010, 10:53 AM
Nikkojoe - I think theoretically you're right, it'd be best to get your turbo feed from just after the radiator, and return it just before the radiator. But in practice the difference would be SFA in my opinion.

I guy I know with cooling problems on an RX7 ran the return water line from the turbo through a little cooler (maybe an old transmission cooler) before it ran back into the engine. The cooler got stinking hot so must have been doing something.

Hen

EDIT - didn't see page 3 before quick replying... so I'm a bit late...

Nikkojoe
29th March 2010, 01:14 PM
Nikkojoe - I think theoretically you're right, it'd be best to get your turbo feed from just after the radiator, and return it just before the radiator. But in practice the difference would be SFA in my opinion.

I guy I know with cooling problems on an RX7 ran the return water line from the turbo through a little cooler (maybe an old transmission cooler) before it ran back into the engine. The cooler got stinking hot so must have been doing something.

Hen

EDIT - didn't see page 3 before quick replying... so I'm a bit late...

Was thinking about that last night, running possibly a heater core or some similar sized cooler just after the turbo before it re-circulates back into the engine.

The point i was trying to make was that under normal conditions these pipes should re-circulate slightly cooler water back into the engine, not hotter water after cooling the turbo. That said a lot of people run it just from the heater pipes, and not many seem to have problems. I've still got plenty of time to play around with it, but need monitor the water temps at different spots.

Anyway, as for tap i've seen it done no problems when someones heater core was leaking. Still running fine no dramas (3 years now). Also, I have seen the initial setup shown with the bridge hose used and working fine to.....but that's another story

cri_ag
15th January 2011, 05:01 PM
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/2/5/2/40405.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/albums/p143/daunderdweller/temp/?action=view&current=cooling.jpg)

ok number 1 normally goes to the heater flow control tap, 2 goes to the heater core. If your not running a heater you have to block them both independantly

umm this is a major fuck up, the rear water outlet is where the temp sensors are located, you now have blocked that circuit hence no water flowing past sensors, you will not achieve an accurate temp reading for your coolant, not to mention fucking up the water-flow throughout the rear of the head.

Sam-Q
15th January 2011, 06:58 PM
really? if that is so then ever time your heater is off your going to loose your readings for the ECU and dash? no, the water and aluminium appears to be good enough to keep good enough temperatures there as through the middle.

cri_ag
16th January 2011, 06:22 PM
when the heater is closed the water can still flow via the throttle body circut

cri_ag
16th January 2011, 06:23 PM
and dash temp is taken from the front outlet pipe, the other sensor is for the cold start injector. also how do you ever plan to bleed the air out of the back of the head if you have stuck a bung in there.

Sam-Q
16th January 2011, 10:44 PM
now correct me if I am wrong but doesn't only the big port have the coolant through the throttle? or am I mistaken.

Now why would it have an air lock? it's not the lowest part of the head and doesn't have any upward cavities . Would you normally undo the hose off the heater core to bleed the air?

blake.
16th January 2011, 10:57 PM
smallports also have coolant flowing through the throttle body.

Sam-Q
16th January 2011, 11:02 PM
I have seen some of the rear water outlets without provision for the throttle lines so one of them must not of got it right?

Now could you explain more about the air lock thing, I am thinking about the option of pulling a heater hose off to make filling easier on my car.

Nikkojoe
17th January 2011, 12:54 AM
Throttle body lines on fwd's are on the pipes which run on the side of block. Only on a rwd 4age there was 1 line that came from the rear of head.

cri_ag
17th January 2011, 08:10 PM
why would toyota bother putting an outlet on the back of the head if it wasn't required? i think is is much safer to leave it as part of the cooling circuit especially as its where the temp sensors are.

Sam-Q
17th January 2011, 09:03 PM
why would toyota bother putting an outlet on the back of the head if it wasn't required? i think is is much safer to leave it as part of the cooling circuit especially as its where the temp sensors are.

For the heater?? I can show you a picture of a rear outlet that doesn't have that throttle coolant provision which means that the outlet won't get water through it unless the heater is on.

cri_ag
18th January 2011, 09:36 AM
the ae92 fwd outlet? from memory the lines do not connect at the alloy water outlet, but further down the line after the rubber heater hose.

why would toyota design a system for throttle body circulation only to have it inadvertently switched off by someone turning the heater off?