FullVersion

Universal something is wrong with the running of my engine



    Sam-Q
    5th December 2010 , 11:27 PM
    There are too many questions being posted in regard to engines not running right, I would like all of these to be posted in this thread from now on.


    Here is the rough guide on how to post your question in here.


    Car model:

    Engine type:

    Problem:



    lolwat
    5th December 2010 , 11:35 PM
    fantastic idea



    Sam-Q
    5th December 2010 , 11:40 PM
    well I hope this clears out this technical area a bit



    Adsie
    7th December 2010 , 10:34 AM
    Car model: Toyota Sprinter

    Engine type: Blacktop 20V 4AGE running Adaptronic with CAS and coilpacks

    Problem: Hard to start, running on 2 cylinders


    I drove the car to work last week and left it park out during the rain. When tried to start it that afternoon it wouldn't start. Managed to get it started at home with a combination or changing the timing and throttle position. It would back fire out of the inlet occasionally while trying to start. However when it was running it would only run on 2 cylinders (1 and 3). After increasing the revs to above 1500rpm it would start running on all 4 again. Checked all the timing marks on the cams and crank as thought the belt might have jump but that seems fine. Remove the coils from 2 and 3 and can see sparks while its cranking. Also tried spraying easy start down the throttle of 2 and 4 while it was only running on two to see if it wasn't getting fuel. Can anyone sugguest something which may be wrong or what to do next?
    Sprin



    Sam-Q
    8th December 2010 , 12:52 AM
    I don't want to sound patronising but are you sure it's only 1 and 3 that run? not 1 and 4?



    Adsie
    8th December 2010 , 07:58 AM
    Yeah it's only running on 1 and 3 which I thought was strange as well. Proved this by removing the coilpacks while the engine was running and 2 and 4 did not make a difference.

    Did a compression test the other day, that was fine same readings across all four.



    Sam-Q
    9th December 2010 , 11:41 PM
    well that's quite inexplicable to me. The only thing I can think of is a power or earthing problem, have a look at the coilpack guide on my site and have a look at the wiring pin outs. See if you have a constant +12 and ground when your igniton is on. Otherwise it sounds like a faulty ecu to me



    biggo
    10th December 2010 , 07:54 AM
    Or water in something



    lolwat
    11th December 2010 , 09:43 PM
    swap your coils around and see if its the coils(mark them) and if it changes what cylinder is missing the coils fucks
    and as above blow shit out with air blower



    Adsie
    19th December 2010 , 05:42 PM
    Found some bad connections in the CAS wires to the ECU which were fixed then the can ran fine on all cylinders. Then later that day tried to crank it over again and it wouldn't start...

    Tested the coils and they are fine also pulled to ECU apart to see if there was water or something in there and that seems fine. Thinking its the ECU now.



    pen15
    26th December 2010 , 07:09 PM
    Car model:1984 Toyota corolla

    Engine type:4age 16v head on top of a 7afe bottomend thus creating 7age

    Problem: Carbon fouling of all my plugs on all different heat ranges this is my theory my engine was tuned on my adaptronic management to run a 1600cc 4age when increasing capacity to 1800cc this will then draw more air being bigger in capacity now when lifting my compression will this then decrease the amount of air draw as there is less area for the air to fill making my engine run rich as my timing is correct (at this point i have not double checked with timing light but im am certain its on 0) i have tried from 5-6-7 heat ranges of plugs and they all foul the same amount i think this may come down to my tune but am unsure of how to correct this problem before resorting to a tune as i do not want to pay for a tune before the engine has had a small chance to bed in

    can someone shed some insight to my problem

    cheers
    mat



    Sam-Q
    26th December 2010 , 07:43 PM
    well any major change to the way an engine runs should mean it needs a retune. Yes running too much will cause it to always foul the plugs, or burning too much oil



    pen15
    26th December 2010 , 07:58 PM
    its defiantly not burning oil as the motor is fresh and the oil is defiantly not burning but how would i easily resolve this issue could i open the fuel map and bring down the fuel levles easily as i have never done it before



    biggo
    28th December 2010 , 08:37 PM
    Do you run a wideband 02 with the adaptronic?

    Anyway, you can select the whole map and right click and decrease the whole thign by a certain percent. I think you have bigger issues than that tho.



    pen15
    29th December 2010 , 11:22 AM
    Do you run a wideband 02 with the adaptronic?

    Anyway, you can select the whole map and right click and decrease the whole thign by a certain percent. I think you have bigger issues than that tho.


    what do u think the issues could be?



    Andy San
    29th December 2010 , 05:52 PM
    get a tune,

    a competent tuner can bed in a brand new motor on the dyno

    It won't be a simple overall map change with larger capacity



    Hachi_Tom
    6th January 2011 , 11:05 PM
    Car model: ADM sprinter

    Engine type: bigport 4a-ge

    Problem: Not actually sure its a problem but it could be :S

    whenever if ill up i can only ever get 35L into my tank. just wondering what is the fuel tank capacity??

    EDIT: forgot to add, to tell if its empty i normally just keep driving until it starts to sputter and carry on.



    Sam-Q
    6th January 2011 , 11:08 PM
    fuel tank capacity? we have had arguments about that, I swear by 40L exactly. Did the usual plugs, caps, leads, rotor button,etc... ??



    Hachi_Tom
    6th January 2011 , 11:13 PM
    Yeh ive done all that but it only ever sputters when the tank is on empty if its 40L then thats cool means 5L reserve if it has one haha.
    yeh i thought i had seen a thread on here about gas mileage i looked for 15 mins but couldnt find it

    Thanks anyways man!



    Andy San
    7th January 2011 , 10:01 AM
    Car model: 1990 GT4 celica

    Engine type: 3SGTE

    Problem: Randomly starts burning oil and throwing white smoke out the exhaust at idle and on overrun whilst driving, I put some oil through it that is too thin, and this is the cause of the problem, but i want to know what the source of the oil burning is.

    I am thinking turbo oil seals are leaking internally, or it's breathing out the rocker covers and sucking it back through the motor. It still runs fine, makes boost and does everything else right so i'm not sure. raising the revs to 2000rpm will make it go away at idle which I thought was odd.



    mack 10
    7th January 2011 , 11:32 AM
    I think i know the fix to your problem. Raise the revs to about 5500 with the clutch in and 1st gear selected. Dump the clutch and hold the steering at full lock to the left. It should start doing helis but if not give the clutch a little kick and it should be ok. Let us know if that fixes the problem.



    Sam-Q
    7th January 2011 , 07:46 PM
    Car model: 1990 GT4 celica

    Engine type: 3SGTE

    Problem: Randomly starts burning oil and throwing white smoke out the exhaust at idle and on overrun whilst driving, I put some oil through it that is too thin, and this is the cause of the problem, but i want to know what the source of the oil burning is.

    I am thinking turbo oil seals are leaking internally, or it's breathing out the rocker covers and sucking it back through the motor. It still runs fine, makes boost and does everything else right so i'm not sure. raising the revs to 2000rpm will make it go away at idle which I thought was odd.

    over-run eh? ok try this- on a hill downchange to hold a high revs with no throttle and crach it open after about 5 seconds. If you have a cloud of smoke it's your valve stem seals.



    Revan
    8th January 2011 , 03:44 AM
    just a quick price guide question...

    new clutch. 3TC/T50

    no labour. Can't seem to get a local quote online.. will be getting it next week....

    edit: not set on toyota part necessarily, somethin a little heavier would be good. Can only find yank prices, and postage is heaps.



    fantapants
    8th January 2011 , 06:52 PM
    so dealio is, i have the 3sge beams in my 86 running.

    Its on blacktop quads running and adaptronic with a tune from an identical speced motor.

    It starts up fine, and idles well, but when i try to throttle it up it gets all emo.


    z60u5YyMacg


    When it has a LITTLE tiny bit of throttle, it revs up fine, then stumbles back down like its hunting. Give it a bit more and it gets all shitty and starts to stall. Hold the throttle at the rev up tiny bit place, and it just revs up and down from about 1000 to 2000.

    Im not really sure whats going on, but need to get it going shiny people :)

    any help appreciated.



    ke_70
    8th January 2011 , 07:08 PM
    mine does that.
    could it be map sensor issues?



    fantapants
    8th January 2011 , 07:20 PM
    newish map sensor, but i have it unplugged. when its plugged in the idle is shit.....



    crunchie
    12th January 2011 , 09:57 PM
    Car model: 1984 KE70

    Engine type: 4AGE 16V smallport

    Problem: Car won't start. It's getting fuel, spark, injectors are pulsing and all wiring is where it should be. When the car is cranking it definitely doesn't sound normal. Me and my mates finally noticed noticed the knock pins on the cam gears were both at 12oclock and 12oclock respectively on TDC. So I'm assuming my exhaust cam is 180degrees out? Can someone confirm.

    Bare with me and my lack of knowledge but i've only just started learning about engines. My question is, to correct the problem will I be able to just say rotate the crank till the pistons clear the valves, rotate the exhaust cam 180 and refit the timing belt as per normal procedure?



    cri_ag
    16th January 2011 , 06:33 PM
    yep thats a problem, one should be up (inlet) and one should be down (exhaust)

    like so

    http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/06/f0/4a//small/0900c1528006f04a.jpg



    cri_ag
    16th January 2011 , 06:37 PM
    place engine at TDC, (good idea to check with a screw driver down the number one spark plug hole that TDC is actually TDC, i had a 4a spit a woodruff key and they harmonic ballancer TDC mark was wrong), remove timing belt, align cams with approximate knock pin locations, put gears on, move cams to timing marks, reinstall timing belt.



    cri_ag
    16th January 2011 , 06:42 PM
    so dealio is, i have the 3sge beams in my 86 running.

    Its on blacktop quads running and adaptronic with a tune from an identical speced motor.

    It starts up fine, and idles well, but when i try to throttle it up it gets all emo.


    z60u5YyMacg


    When it has a LITTLE tiny bit of throttle, it revs up fine, then stumbles back down like its hunting. Give it a bit more and it gets all shitty and starts to stall. Hold the throttle at the rev up tiny bit place, and it just revs up and down from about 1000 to 2000.

    Im not really sure whats going on, but need to get it going shiny people :)

    any help appreciated.


    sounds like a load sensing problem, check that your adaptronic is getting signal from your tps, and as stated map sensor. tps usually have to be calibrated to the ecu.



    ke_70
    16th January 2011 , 07:30 PM
    does it have a slight miss pat?



    fantapants
    16th January 2011 , 09:25 PM
    maybe.... not really sure what im listening for really...

    i recalibrated the tps, and it improved heaps, re ran the vac sensor from all 4 throttles and its way cleaner... but yeah still stutters a little under quick throttle...



    cri_ag
    19th January 2011 , 06:03 PM
    ok sweet, at least your getting somewhere. do you have a vacuum canister with all the throttles teed into and a single map sense line coming out?



    fantapants
    19th January 2011 , 09:27 PM
    yeah thats how i ran it....:)



    Twinky
    20th January 2011 , 08:25 AM
    Not a fueling issue? Same thing happened with my 20 valve, changed the fuel filter and ran sweet.



    fantapants
    20th January 2011 , 09:11 AM
    worth a try :)



    McLEVIN
    20th January 2011 , 09:17 AM
    Car model: 84 ae86

    Engine type: 4age

    Problem: well this morining on my way to work i noticed that my water temp was reading about 100-110deg, usually it sits between 85 and 90. i pulled over had plenty of water. i dont know whether guage is faulty cause i noticed occasionally it would drop down and flick back up again. or maybe my radiator needs a good flush?
    i was just wondering how hot is too hot for a 4age as everyone seems to be around 80-90deg?



    haveaparty
    23rd January 2011 , 09:20 PM
    Car model: ae86

    Engine type: 4age with ae82 computer

    Problem: won't start


    Hey guys. Put fresh built engine in 86 and finished it off today. It kicks over fine but won't start. I read on here wat problems it could be and this is wat I got so far.
    It has spark. Put a screw driver in the end of a lead and close to somethin steel and could see the spark jump.
    It has injector pulse. Has 12v coming out of both sides of the injector plug.
    Fuel pump is pumping fuel as it pissed everywhere cause I forgot to do up a line proper lol.
    Checked the cam pulleys and they are opposite each other.
    All fuses are fine.
    Compression is good through all cylinders.

    You guys might no some other things I can diagnose. I'm pretty mechanically minded but if u hav a problem and a solution post it up and I'll check it
    We tried holding it on and let it wined over for a bit as it's a fresh engine and thought it might just take a bit. The cold start injector has been unplugged cause it back fired huuuge out of the pod and scared the shit outta me lol so not risking that agen until it's goin lol. Also most plugs are connected. There is one cylinder shape yellow plug that isn't but can't find any where for it to go. And there is two other plugs that are with the green cylinder plug that connects to the igniter. Both plugs hav a black wire with orange trace and both hav 12v, one plug is a single female conector and the other has two female connectors. This plug also has a brown wire which I assume is an earth.

    Sorry for the long story but trying to explain my self as I much as I can. Thanks for any help. Much appreciated.



    Andy San
    24th January 2011 , 12:54 PM
    I would plug the cold start injector back in as it will need that to start it on the stock ecu I would have thought.

    If it is backfiring out the intake it is either ruinning lean or the timing is in the wrong spot. Yellow cylindrical plug sounds like an air temp sensor plug, or a diagnostic plug depending on it's shape.



    haveaparty
    24th January 2011 , 01:06 PM
    cheers man, ill plug it back in and give it a go, help is appreciated



    Twinky
    24th January 2011 , 02:25 PM
    Sounds like the timing is waaaay off. Just for an example with the exact same symptoms:
    Put in a fresh 5k, cranking over and backfiring out of the carbie but won't start. Took out dizzy and rotated 180 degrees, started first turn over.



    haveaparty
    24th January 2011 , 02:45 PM
    yeah, am gunna try this wen i get home, pretty sure thats all it can be, it has everything to go its just not, so thats all i can put it down to, cheers man



    70XIN
    24th January 2011 , 04:43 PM
    Yep, i also reckon dizzy is out 180. I did exactly the same thing.

    Also, cold-start injector isn't necessary for the car to run ... especially in brissy. ;) (Not saying you shouldn't plug it in, i'm just saying it's definitely not the cause of your problems).


    EDIT: Oh, and just taking a shot in the dark here, but i'd say that one leftover yellow plug will be your diagnostic plug to check for error codes/set ignition timing :)



    haveaparty
    24th January 2011 , 06:29 PM
    Tried spinning the dizzy and still nothing lol. Gunna keep trying to spin it small amount at a time.



    70XIN
    24th January 2011 , 07:07 PM
    ** You may know all this already, so please don't take offence. At the least, it might help someone who has a similar problem in the future :) **

    I would take your dizzy out, and check cam timing THEN ignition timing. You have fuel and spark, so it's fairly certain to be timing of some variety.

    Make sure your timing belt hasn't skipped a tooth or ten.

    http://www.856media.com/corolladocs/timingbeltchange_files/image016.jpg

    And then make sure you can see the marking on the cam through the oil filler cap before you put the dizzy back in. If you can't see it, then you need to spin the crank another 360 degrees .. or you've done something wrong :P

    http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/06/f0/28//small/0900c1528006f028.jpg



    haveaparty
    24th January 2011 , 08:00 PM
    Both the marks on the cams line up fine and wen u look through the filler cap u can see the dent on the cam. And wen I put the dizzy back in, the mark on the spin shaft with the teeth on it lines up with the mark on the dizzy. That's if that's how it's done lol. And still just wines over. I check spark agen and it does. And is back fires a little bit every now and then so I assume it's burning fuel lol. Anyone in this area wanna try and check it out. Car is located a crestmead.



    haveaparty
    24th January 2011 , 08:33 PM
    If the cam angle sensor on the dizzy was rooted would it still hav a spark??? Should try a Different dizzy. But couldn't be fucked now Hahah it's dark out.



    x_christ0n
    29th January 2011 , 02:48 PM
    hey i got a smallport 16v and I blocked the cold start valve but i kept blowing out the pipe that i used to block the cold start in the first place for some wierd reason. i replaced it with a bolt recently and it fixed the problem i had a regular idle again but after a bit of a "spirited drive" the idle stays at around 4,500. i recently changed the intake manifold gasket and i tried spraying wd40 to find any leaks no luck so far adam from HR asked me to check the butterfly on my thorttle body best lead so far but it didnt do anything when i pressed on it and if i put my hand over the throttle body to cover it it stalls. Idle screw is fully closed and coldstart valve is fully closed. any suggestion would be tops cheers

    oh and also sometimes in the morning the car idles normal and stuff but once i go for a lil bit of a drive and it warms up Booom high idle thing pulls itself along its like bodgy cruise control =[



    crunchie
    6th February 2011 , 05:35 PM
    Car model: ke70

    Engine type: 16v smallport 4AGE

    Problem: pulled the bottom timing cover off my smallport 4AGE and noticed that where the timing belt tensioner bolts onto the oil pump housing(?), theres a hairline crack which seems to me like it warrants a replacement. After skimming over the procedure in the factory manual, it says that i should remove the oil sump before proceeding to remove the oil pump housing. My question is, is it possible to just remove the oil pump and then gasketgoo all around the sump and slot it back in like a puzzle piece??

    @ haveaparty: hey mate, had pretty much the same symptoms you describe when i was trying to get my 4age started. I was getting fuel, spark, pulse, dizzy was set right and it cranked but no start. All the timing marks lined up including on the cam gears. What we ignorantly missed were the knock pins in the cam gears. There are 2 slots directly opposite eachother on each camgear so you might have to look carefully to see where the actual knock-pin of the camshaft is. At TDC the knockpins should be roughly at 12oclock on the intake cam and 5oclock on the exhaust cam. My knockpins were at 12 and 12, so the exhaust cam was 180degrees out. Pulled the timing belt off, flipped the cam gear, realigned the cam, reinstall timing belt and it started first go lol



    fergie
    20th February 2011 , 03:41 PM
    car model: ae86

    engine type: 4age silvertop

    problem: i only got the engine running the other day and its not making power under load, it idles fine, but when driving if i put my foot down more than a quarter it starts to miss and as im gaining revs i need to back off the throttle or it does the same thing so by the time it gets to 4500 rpm my foot is only just on the throttle and i cant get anymore revs,
    im thinking its a mixture problem i screwed the AFM in a few turns and it made it marginally better but it still hunts above 3500 also i played around with the TPS and got that as good as possible could it need thicker fuel lines or similar?



    haveaparty
    20th February 2011 , 07:45 PM
    Dizzy timing. Or if u hav coil packs. Uve dropped a coil.



    fergie
    20th February 2011 , 08:33 PM
    i got the timing light out and its at 15 btdc which i think sounds good



    haveaparty
    20th February 2011 , 08:56 PM
    Well then if it's coil pack one of them is rooted. Or is getting the timing light out tellin me its dizzy haha.



    fergie
    2nd March 2011 , 07:49 PM
    i found out the bloke i bought the 20v off had an inline fuel filter which i dont have would this give too much flow causing it to run rich



    haveaparty
    2nd March 2011 , 10:03 PM
    hmmmm i dout it, but put on in and see how u go



    lolwat
    2nd March 2011 , 11:46 PM
    doubt that, not reading air flow???



    Sam-Q
    2nd March 2011 , 11:55 PM
    i found out the bloke i bought the 20v off had an inline fuel filter which i dont have would this give too much flow causing it to run rich

    if your relying upon the fuel filter to restrict the fuel flow then something is very wrong, sounds like too high a flow pump.



    fergie
    3rd March 2011 , 08:28 AM
    the fuel pump is so big it actually moves the c of g a foot lol but the bloke said he was running that pump but i might just get a smaller one any reccomendations?



    Sam-Q
    3rd March 2011 , 08:38 AM
    yes a VL pump like everyone else



    lolwat
    4th March 2011 , 11:33 PM
    and dont let someone con you saying "this one is better its a VL turbo fuel pump" there the same in the Bosch book



    Sam-Q
    5th March 2011 , 10:22 AM
    and dont let someone con you saying "this one is better its a VL turbo fuel pump" there the same in the Bosch book

    actually there is a trivial difference that I think makes them superior, the VL turbo pump uses studs instead of spade terminals for the electrical connection which is a a more reliable method of connection. Ok very trival then!



    fergie
    11th March 2011 , 06:59 PM
    so i was wondering what that hose thats blocked off with the bolt is for and where its meant to go it was at the auto electrician and he installed the fuel system
    http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5057/5516473417_ecf4488c30.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/54253843@N03/5516473417/)
    IMAG0021 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/54253843@N03/5516473417/) by fergie86 (http://www.flickr.com/people/54253843@N03/), on Flickr



    fergie
    11th March 2011 , 07:32 PM
    also i was wondering how to check the TPS works good



    lolwat
    12th March 2011 , 01:13 PM
    ok finally got my 4age wired (most of) into my ke
    problem is i have no spark, i have power at both sides of the coil, but still no spark(checked at the coil it self) 4 age is a big port

    any ideas??



    Dish
    12th March 2011 , 03:24 PM
    Hey guys, still having trouble with my car starting. Replaced my old starter motor with a 2nd hand smallport/gze starter. Worked fine for a few weeks, kicked it over on the first turn of the key.

    Last week or so on short drives it's having trouble starting and it will crank slowly for a bit and then free up. Sometimes it will just crank untill the battery doesn't have anymore go.

    Just wondering if the starter is suposed to have an external neg cable and not just rely on the general engine neg. Any help would be awesome as it's pissing me off.



    lolwat
    12th March 2011 , 04:58 PM
    well i had issues with my thing kicking over(not getting enough power) and i forgot to bolt in all the earth straps for the engine and now it turns over FINE!, you might find the heat is killing your starter motor



    Dish
    12th March 2011 , 05:17 PM
    I thought about heat. My old one died due to heat I'm guessing as it didn't have a heatshield, this one has a heatshield. And starting to have the same problems as my last one. Just wondering if it could be anything else. Have checked amps and battery charge with the car off and car on. Alternator is fine. Just seems to be when it's hot.



    lolwat
    12th March 2011 , 06:28 PM
    yea its heat that shitty peice of metal that is on it now wouldnt be doing much (i got the same thing atm, but i got to get my POS running before i worry about that) got to repco or a good(lol i said repco and good in one sentence) parts store and ask for heat shield come as a flat sheet, thicker and is easy to bend around your starter motor(it has all little and strange shape indents in it) good shit (ill be using it)



    Dish
    13th March 2011 , 12:24 PM
    Cool, thanks dude. I work with metal, so I might just fold myself one up.



    lolwat
    13th March 2011 , 09:07 PM
    Car - ke70

    motor - bigport 4 age 16v

    use -ornament/daily

    problem - no spark

    occurs/started when - i turn it over and there's no spark

    personal situation (if applicable)- i have wired this up and the coil has 12 volts either side of the coil like i was told it needed, but i turn it over and there is still no spark (even straight from the coil)
    is there anything else i can check, eg: signal from the dissy or anything


    thank you in advanced



    Sam-Q
    13th March 2011 , 09:13 PM
    ok thanks for making your post here. Now if your coil has a permenet negative hooked up it won't fire, that's meant to be pulsed by the ignitor!



    slide86
    13th March 2011 , 09:48 PM
    you shouldnt have 12v on both sides of the coil either, only the +ve side



    haveaparty
    13th March 2011 , 09:59 PM
    If ur got stock loom and ignitor make the green plug that goes to the ignitor is plugged in proper. And run a wire from ur battery straight to positive side of coil.



    lolwat
    13th March 2011 , 10:32 PM
    well im not actually using the stock plug as one side of it was fucked so i used terminals and the original plug on the coil side, and matched them up

    you say run that what as what a test or permanent??



    haveaparty
    13th March 2011 , 11:37 PM
    Well then make sure that uve got the wires in the right spot. And I ran it as a permanit wen I did my bros conversion. Cause I read in here somewhere to do it. And once I got it goin went fine. And left it on



    haveaparty
    13th March 2011 , 11:42 PM
    so i was wondering what that hose thats blocked off with the bolt is for and where its meant to go it was at the auto electrician and he installed the fuel system
    http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5057/5516473417_ecf4488c30.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/54253843@N03/5516473417/)
    IMAG0021 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/54253843@N03/5516473417/) by fergie86 (http://www.flickr.com/people/54253843@N03/), on Flickr



    That goes to the charcoal canister for emission control. Leave it blocked as it is. And not sure bout the tps. Ull need to google that one.



    lolwat
    14th March 2011 , 12:04 AM
    alright so why would both sides of my coil have 12volts then as all i have done is supplied the black with orange dots wire under my dash from the engine loom like i was told by auto ele,
    i has no idea :/:(



    Nikkojoe
    14th March 2011 , 12:30 AM
    Black with orange dots is actually black with brown dots, which is tacho. Do not give power to this.....

    Black with a continuous orange LINE is the one to give power to. Generally if your igniter is connected to your coil normally, placing 12v ignition on the positive terminal will then give 12V to the igniter and therefore the black orange wire.



    haveaparty
    14th March 2011 , 02:11 PM
    I always thought u was sposed to to hav power on both sides of the coil. I wired mine exactly the way Microtech sed to and I got power on both sides of all my coils. Even though one side is negative. I thought pos on coil was constant power and neg was the pulse. Same as like ur injectors. On power one pulse.



    lolwat
    14th March 2011 , 11:22 PM
    ok maybe it was blake with orange line, as the coil is getting power and yea matt(pen15) told me i should have 12 volts on both sides

    so anything i can try??? (apart from wire from batt)



    Sam-Q
    14th March 2011 , 11:28 PM
    That goes to the charcoal canister for emission control. Leave it blocked as it is. And not sure bout the tps. Ull need to google that one.

    actually that's vacuum for brakes, one on the 4th throttle too



    haveaparty
    15th March 2011 , 01:10 PM
    Oh it is to hahah. Just seen the bolt in the line and instantly thought fuel haha. Should of looked harder lol



    blake.
    15th March 2011 , 02:59 PM
    ok maybe it was blake with orange line, as the coil is getting power and yea matt(pen15) told me i should have 12 volts on both sides

    so anything i can try??? (apart from wire from batt)

    Me with orange line?



    lolwat
    15th March 2011 , 09:26 PM
    touche"
    seriosuly though this is the only thing thats stopping my ke running now :(



    haveaparty
    16th March 2011 , 08:18 AM
    Wen I wired the 16v into the sprinter I only had to connect 3 wires. BATT, B and B1 and it went. Did u try the wire straight from the battery to the coil



    lolwat
    24th March 2011 , 07:49 AM
    now im unbanned, yes i did it jsut powered everything, exactly the same as i had it except i had it all under my dash, and still got no spark and i found out im not going t a pulse at the coil, got an auto ele coming to ook at it on sat arco, he is pretty good apparently done a shitload with ke/ae71



    haveaparty
    24th March 2011 , 11:19 AM
    if ur got no pulse at coil ur ignitor is most prolly rooted



    elfin6
    24th March 2011 , 01:15 PM
    Car - Elfin Clubman

    motor - 4AGE AE92 100kw 16v twincam small port red top

    use - hills

    problem - missing problem triggered once over 5500rpm

    Everything works well until I rev hard past 5500rpm (I say hard because SOMETIMES if taken smoothly the issue doesn't occur until about 6500rpm)at which time it feels like the rev limiter cuts in and the engine feels like its running on 3 cylinders, small backfires and generally missing. I would say that the ECU rev limiter threshold needs adjusting except that the "missing" doesn't go away and will continue intermitently once triggered. Sometimes turning the engine off helps but not always and sometimes after a decent run the engine starts with the "missing" effect. As you can imagine V frustrating....what the point of having this engne if you can rev it!!

    After serveral mechanic trips and my own research the following has been carried out:
    - new plugs
    - new coil leads (5mm)
    - new distributor cap (sourced from an excellent US site www.carpartsdiscount.com/auto/parts/toyota - all the local supplied caps had hair line cracks)
    - new O2 sensor
    - ECU has been reset (disconected from batt etc)

    Any help appreciated



    lolwat
    24th March 2011 , 10:06 PM
    if ur got no pulse at coil ur ignitor is most prolly rooted
    but i believe the igniter is tripped by the ecu?? or something



    haveaparty
    24th March 2011 , 10:36 PM
    I didn't read back threw all the comments but didn't u say u had to wire the plug to the ignitor urself. If so then I recon u wired it wrong.



    lolwat
    24th March 2011 , 10:49 PM
    knowing me i properly did, ill look at it tomorrow
    cheers
    :/



    svenmate
    27th March 2011 , 04:19 PM
    Please help?? :(

    I recently did 4age into ae71 conversion, got it started all good, but it won't rev past 3 or 4k.

    I've tried removing tps and swapping the ecu over and still nothing. Any ideas what it could be??

    Also, It hunts at the moment but I know that's because my coolant lines aren't connected to the throttle body yet. Do I need to make up my own lines or can I just bypass that system?

    Thanks in advance :)



    haveaparty
    27th March 2011 , 05:09 PM
    What does it do wen it gets to those revs. Like fuel cuts or ur foot could be flat to the floor and just stops revving.



    lolwat
    27th March 2011 , 05:19 PM
    it have TVIS???



    svenmate
    27th March 2011 , 05:40 PM
    TVIS is still connected. It just bounces like a limiter and splutters, if I open throttle all the way it splutters more. :S



    lolwat
    27th March 2011 , 05:58 PM
    does it do it if you slowly biuld up the revs or only when you stomp it



    haveaparty
    27th March 2011 , 06:23 PM
    Wat fuel pump u running. Could be over fueling. Or try changing spark plugs and leads.



    Nikkojoe
    27th March 2011 , 09:49 PM
    Engine is in limp mode. Most likely caused by a fault with map sensor

    Check:
    -Connection of map sensor carefully! By this i mean check the continuity of each of the 3 pins on the map sensor before the plug and after plug.
    -The pins back to ecu for continuity.
    -The map sensor line for cuts/damage

    Also check connection of dizzy, shorting wires and general earths.



    svenmate
    27th March 2011 , 11:49 PM
    Does it either slow or fast rev bit only at that one point of rpm...

    I'm using a VL pump and standard pressure regulator. Shouldn't be overfueling. Has new sparks and leads too.

    Map sensor sounds more like it. Should there be constant power through all three wires at any engine speed?



    slide86
    28th March 2011 , 12:01 AM
    it should have:
    a voltage (+ve)
    an earth (-ve)
    and a signal wire

    the signal wire should have a varying voltage depending on engine load. it should be between 0-5v.



    Nikkojoe
    28th March 2011 , 12:06 AM
    When i got my first 4age running i had this problem. Was because one of the pins on the map sensor plug dislodged and was making no connection (swapped a map sensor over and it had no effect). Made sure it had connection and it ran perfect!



    svenmate
    28th March 2011 , 08:29 AM
    Ok, thank you!! :) Will try tonight.



    claw
    28th March 2011 , 11:39 AM
    svenmate, i had similar issues, due to a shit fuel filter, if i footed it itd just die and splutter, changed filter, problem solved, aparently the ecu will rev cut if the engine is going to lean out or something



    foamy
    28th March 2011 , 09:43 PM
    Not a running issue, just something I've noticed.
    Was doing a service on my 20v silvertop, noticed a hose running from the intake side cam cover (at the back. This is in a FWD car, so the cam cover closest to the firewall). Followed the hose...it lead to nowhere. Fired up the motor, it seems like it's drawing in air. Is this just a breather, or is it supposed to be connected to something?



    Sam-Q
    28th March 2011 , 09:51 PM
    thats a breather



    foamy
    28th March 2011 , 09:55 PM
    I guess if I leave it sitting around the back corner of the engine bay there will be no issues?



    Sam-Q
    28th March 2011 , 11:37 PM
    not bringing up any legalitiles with EPA and if your engine doesn't have blow-by then yeah sure your all good.



    fergie
    29th March 2011 , 06:15 PM
    so i took my ae86 with 4age 20v st in to get the fuel pressure tested and it was near on 500 kpa so we disconnected return line back to the tank and it was about 275 kpa is that what i want pressure wise



    dove grey 64
    15th April 2011 , 07:13 PM
    Car model:84 adm ae86

    Engine type:4ac baby

    Problem: black/white wire from voltage regulator alternator burns out/ speedo counter bounces

    this morning i went to start up engine and the car would not turn over, acting as though it had a flat battery. straight away smoke came up from the bonnet. quick inspection showed nothing, turned it over again and it started up. drove to work then (charge light didnt come on) had a closer look and the black/white wire going from the alternator to the voltage regulator had melted, also noticed on the drive that my speedo needle started bouncing...?
    dave (e7) came around and changed over my regulator, alternator and loom while i worked (thankyou sooooooooo much mate) we jump started the car, everything fine... turned it off and went to turn it back on to make sure it was ok and it melted the same wire again!
    we found that if the voltage regulator was touching the body it would earth out and cause the black and white wire to burn up, replaced the wire again and spaced the regulator from the body with nylon washers and the car starts and drives fine.
    i havent touched or modified the car in anyway for at least 5 months so it's got me scratching my head as to what the problem is and why it just occurred so suddenly . also whats the story with the speedo bouncing, its driving me nuts



    Leigh
    18th April 2011 , 06:04 PM
    adm ae86 with big port 16 valve TVIS

    I got a new clutch exedy HD the other week fitted it up and was feeling strong no probs for a few weeks then I gave it half a boot full up a bit of a hill in 1st changed into 2nd then the car started making a grinding and banging noise (hard to describe) coming from the back of the enigine ...... I managed to get it home and noticed that at idle (while at the lights) that it makes the noise and when I accelerate it doesnt make the noise then when slowing down it starts making the noise
    I thought it might of been the clutch or flywheel so I pulled the box out and everything looked fine nothing loose or what ever... I have a spare box so I put it in to see if it was something to do with the gear box but when I put it all back together and kicked her over still makes the same noise. so now I'm scratching my head and I'm thinking I should just give up on the money pit that is my car.........

    sad but true but if anyone can shed some light it would be appreciated... guessing with out actually hearing the noise it is a bit hard



    leigh



    haveaparty
    18th April 2011 , 07:39 PM
    Could it be the big end bearing. Go for another drive and see if it makes the noise in top end.



    slide86
    18th April 2011 , 08:33 PM
    so it only makes the noise when there is load on the engine/drivetrain.

    a big end would make the noise all the time regardless of engine load.

    id check your harmonic balancer, i know you said the noise sounds like its coming from the rear of the engine, but these things can be very deceptive. Id remove the drive belt and see if that makes a change, also inspect the rubber part of the pulley whilst you are there.



    Leigh
    19th April 2011 , 12:07 PM
    cool cool yeah it makes noise at idle or when decelerating but not so much when accelerating....
    I've got my bro coming over tomorrow to have a look see hopefully he will be able to tell what it is. Luckily I have another engine so might have to swap it over ......



    lolwat
    19th April 2011 , 10:44 PM
    if anyone cares(thanks heaps slide 86, nikkojoe, skylar, samQ) now got injector pulse and spark, and brooooom brooom, thanks heaps guys for the help(wiring and dia)



    Sam-Q
    19th April 2011 , 11:22 PM
    good to hear, that's what this section is for



    Leigh
    20th April 2011 , 01:51 PM
    ah yah my bro couldn't figure it out but he reckons sound is coming from the front intake side but after pulling of rocker covers and having a look see nothing stood out as loose or broken

    I've got NRMA coming over to see if they can tell me whats doing..... apart from that looks like its engine swap time :-(

    ......NRMA came round he said def engine is stuffed...weird it is still running but I guess he knows what hes talkin bout... have to sort out engine change then I guess bummer this engine was my good one!!! was rebuilt only like 40,000 ago

    over n out



    lolwat
    20th April 2011 , 10:13 PM
    but I guess he knows what hes talkin bout...
    NRMA

    No
    Real
    Mechanics
    Available



    Dish
    1st May 2011 , 06:43 PM
    I'm having problems with my new 4age.n Got it in and everthing hooked up. Dizzy alignment is all a.o.k as far as I can tell. Fired it up, seemed to run pretty well, set all the timing to 15+ TDC with T and E1 bridged, can rev it to whatever revs I want, but as soon as I turn it off and go to fire it again it backfire out of the throttle body and wont idle, just keeps stalling. Once I got it running again the timing has changed to somewhere around -10 retard.

    Have changed back to my old ecu that I know is reliable, changed my throttle body off my old 4age and was still having the same problems, changed the dizzy over and it seemed to fire all good, degreased it and silly me fire it up without wiping out any excess, the dizzy caught fire for about 10 seconds and now it's doing the same thing as before.

    Did I fry the dizzy or is something else out?

    Have had it running fine with the old dizzy, enough to drive it down the road at any revs without any misses, but as soon as I turn it off it loses timing.

    Sorry for the long post, have been fucking with this for the last 24 hours and I'm going loopy.



    dove grey 64
    12th June 2011 , 08:31 PM
    the dizzy caught fire for about 10 seconds and now it's doing the same thing as before.
    LMFAO, i did that the other day. i topped up the oil in my car, drove to work the next day and went to check the dip stick, must have forgotten to tighten the oil cap because i had oil everywhere in my engine bay, oil cap was under the air filter (atleast i didnt lose it)
    went afterwork to a car wash and popped the bonnet and started degreasing the engine while it was running, dizzy caught fire, ran over to put $1 in the machine to get the hose running, grabbed pressure hose..... ran to the front of the car to put out the fire which had grown....pulled trigger.....NOTHING..... looked back over to the coin machine and my dollar coin fell through the slot and was sitting in the return part......FUCK
    ran back put the dollar through again, registered and put out the fire. only a small bit of loom burnt... pretty funny though



    lolwat
    12th June 2011 , 09:16 PM
    LMFAO, i did that the other day. i topped up the oil in my car, drove to work the next day and went to check the dip stick, must have forgotten to tighten the oil cap because i had oil everywhere in my engine bay, oil cap was under the air filter (atleast i didnt lose it)
    went afterwork to a car wash and popped the bonnet and started degreasing the engine while it was running, dizzy caught fire, ran over to put $1 in the machine to get the hose running, grabbed pressure hose..... ran to the front of the car to put out the fire which had grown....pulled trigger.....NOTHING..... looked back over to the coin machine and my dollar coin fell through the slot and was sitting in the return part......FUCK
    ran back put the dollar through again, registered and put out the fire. only a small bit of loom burnt... pretty funny though

    i deadset laughed, funny as



    focus_7
    17th June 2011 , 05:33 PM
    PROBLEM

    AE86, 4AC

    When I rev the engine to higher revs, once I let off my exhaust spits out a cloud of black smoke. From what I've looked up it could possibly be running rich, but at the moment my fuel economy hasn't gone to shit? Other tips?



    b1gb3n
    20th June 2011 , 03:44 PM
    ADM ae86
    engine 4age 20v silvertop with microtech ecu

    issue: car been sitting for 3 yrs, trying to start it. engine idles for about 5 secs and then dies. tried giving it gas while running n just dies as well.

    engine was running fine 3 yrs ago b4 it got neglected. ive changed the engine oil, fuel, water, oil n fuel filters. Fuel pump is running from what i can hear. All vacuum & fuel hoses in the engine bay seems to be running fine as far as i know.

    gonna get spark plugs today n see how it goes. im guessing it could possible be the injectors being stuck. is there anyway i can check this without having to dismantle my intake n pull the injector out??



    Skylar
    20th June 2011 , 04:04 PM
    focus, I wouldn't worry about it.

    ben, it's not your injectors, I don't think BUT does it idle smoothly or just splutters around on one or two cylinders? You can half check them by cranking the motor without plugs and see if a cloud of fuel vapour comes out the spark plug hole. Best to pull them out and confirm operation + spray pattern.

    Is the MAP sensor line connected?

    I doubt it's your fuel pump but it wouldn't hurt to give it 12v off somewhere just to make sure it isn't.



    b1gb3n
    20th June 2011 , 11:57 PM
    focus, I wouldn't worry about it.

    ben, it's not your injectors, I don't think BUT does it idle smoothly or just splutters around on one or two cylinders? You can half check them by cranking the motor without plugs and see if a cloud of fuel vapour comes out the spark plug hole. Best to pull them out and confirm operation + spray pattern.

    Is the MAP sensor line connected?

    I doubt it's your fuel pump but it wouldn't hurt to give it 12v off somewhere just to make sure it isn't.

    ive done more "experiments" and figured out its the fuel regulator. currently the fuel enters the rail from dizzy side and exits at cam gear side. regulator is on camgear side and theres no fuel coming out of regulator. removed regulator n fuel comes out.

    i know fuel is running other way around so b4 i get flamed for it, i just wanna say i got the car already with a 20v in it n it was done like that n it was running fine. dont wanna change too many things yet, just wanna get it running so i can drive it from my old place where my lease has EXPIRED to my new place lol!!



    b1gb3n
    21st June 2011 , 01:02 AM
    my bad the regulator is infact suppose to be on return side. just checked the manual. was misinformed before by someone who used to frequent this forum alot too da_horse lol



    robert222
    24th July 2011 , 08:13 AM
    model toyota corolla.

    4agze.

    currently building a 4qagze into my 96 corolla. have it all done and runnin. this might sound stupid now but should there be an air flow meter runnin one off these engines. reason i ask is mine is revin between 2000 and 35oo rpm while on tic over. and only thing i can narrow it down to is that it is missin its air flow or the throttle senser is dodgy.

    any help would much appreciated.

    thanks robert



    haveaparty
    24th July 2011 , 10:15 AM
    if the car has a MAP sensor then it wont hav AFM. unplug the throttle position sensor and see if anything changes



    Ls86
    24th July 2011 , 09:49 PM
    Car model: 1985 ADM AE89 sprinter

    Engine type: JDM 4AGE rwd ver

    Problem: replace the head gasket, bolted the engine back together went to start would rev to 2000 try to give it some throttle an it would stall. but now i'm getting no spark at all, i get the intial spark when the key turns to prime fuel but as motor is turning over i'm getting no spark at all????:cries:



    lolwat
    24th July 2011 , 10:49 PM
    you getting power to coil when cranking???



    robert222
    25th July 2011 , 01:13 AM
    Cheers for the reply.
    ya tried that. but same problem. where is the map sensor. or would it be the throttle sensor causing it,



    Ls86
    25th July 2011 , 01:24 AM
    you getting power to coil when cranking???
    not to sure atm as i dont have the tools to test it, is there a thread somewhere that shows wat to test? i tried searchin but couldnt find the info i was after



    b1gb3n
    25th July 2011 , 12:45 PM
    without tools u could pull spark plugs out connected to spark plug lead cable n see if theres sparks when cranking. be careful tho coz its super duper high voltage



    Ls86
    25th July 2011 , 01:43 PM
    without tools u could pull spark plugs out connected to spark plug lead cable n see if theres sparks when cranking. be careful tho coz its super duper high voltage
    yeh done that, wat happens is when you turn the key before the motor turns i get one spark, but as you crank the motor i'm gettin no spark at all



    lolwat
    25th July 2011 , 02:05 PM
    ok you got injector pulse??
    pull dissy out and spin the gear like run it up and down your arm you should you hear the injectors firing and spark(and your fuel pump will kick in also) (have the car on reds)



    BMXB
    9th October 2011 , 01:11 PM
    Car model: AE86

    Engine type:16v red top

    Problem: car has a massive flatspot only when in 2nd gear. when going straight from 1st to 2nd or around hard cornering in 2nd it just spits and burbles no matter how hard to put the peddel down it just keeps doing this for about 5-10sec. but when the clutch is ingauged it stops then goes fine in 2nd untill you go back down below 2500-3000rpm it does it again. it only starts to happen with the car is heated up and only around 2500rpm and up.

    i have replaced the plugs with bosch p3-4 platinum plugs and a bosch GT40 coil. the leads seem fine, cleaned out fuel and lines, fitted new fuel filter, filled with shel premium 98 and it hasnt changed.
    i am going to book it in with a local machanic this week but id rather fix the problem with your help and ideas before i go throwing my money at the high priced machanics we have here in warragul!.. ill get a video of this today and post up :) hope someone can help cheers! Benny



    Twinky
    24th October 2011 , 09:27 AM
    Checked the Map sensor?



    Cerby86
    24th October 2011 , 10:40 AM
    what plugs were you using before? I have had nothing but trouble with bosch plugs. Also had trouble with platinum plugs but thats probably more to do with my aftermarket ecu running rich.
    But the point is try some nice carbon electrode NGK plugs. $4ish each run like a dream



    shaunpierre
    24th October 2011 , 10:43 AM
    Car model: 83 ke70

    Engine type: 4kc

    Problem: car randomly shuts off and no response to accelerator. takes a while to start up again. but if in a tight spot i can hold key in the ignition postion and i can drive but have to have hold key there with one hand :S.

    starts fine in the mornin drives fine all the time just randomly shuts off,
    i replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel tank, carby, coil and distributer and the cap and dizzy, leads, spark plugs. not runnin thermo stat. not runnin aircon.

    the carby is a newer modle and all the vac/polution lines didnt match up so there pritty much just kickin back there lol

    used to have violent shudering and stalling which was a fuel drama but that prob was solved for a little while now its just this
    months ago tank was dirty so i cleaned out it but no luck.. so put new tank in yesterday from donor car.. when swaping fuel over there was evidence of dirt sand or something nothin major filter cant fix but i could jsut have blocked lines :S ??
    hard to say when this all started i think right after i replaced the head gasket.



    Twinky
    25th October 2011 , 02:05 PM
    Sounds almost like a massive vacuum leak. If you want to rule out fuel pressure into the carby simply unscrew the line into the carby,
    get a coke bottle and place it into there. Crank the motor and see if you get fuel flowing into the bottle. Another thing to check is the float.
    If your float is set too high the bowl will flood and it won't run properly or not at all.

    Now that is just a stab in the dark, one thing you may also want to check is the ballast resistor. If it has a loose connection it could run well for a while
    but a sudden jolt could set it loose and you will loose ignition in an instant. If you don't run a ballast resistor as should be in stock configuration make sure
    that you have a 12v coil and not a 9v.

    Let us know how it goes checking fuel flow.



    k.aaron
    25th October 2011 , 10:13 PM
    Model - '86
    Engine - 4AC
    Problem - drove it home for the first time in six months and it started popping out the exhaust. Could this just be old oil that's been sitting for a while? Thanks guys.



    Sam-Q
    25th October 2011 , 10:26 PM
    Model - '86
    Engine - 4AC
    Problem - drove it home for the first time in six months and it started popping out the exhaust. Could this just be old oil that's been sitting for a while? Thanks guys.

    did you put a fresh batch of fuel in?



    k.aaron
    26th October 2011 , 06:49 AM
    Yes.



    McLEVIN
    27th October 2011 , 02:28 PM
    Hey guys started to pull my engine apart today for fun and I noticed that in the valley where the spark plugs are the is some corrosion is this something of concern or just abit of moisture getting in over the years.



    shaunpierre
    31st October 2011 , 09:46 AM
    ok took in all the info, and after a small drive turned off again... i pulled over and poped hood and found loose conection that fell under the battery looked like a sensor, chased up any open line and put them to gether, also swaped som lines under the air box thing and car hasnt stalled in 3 days... wraped but idles at about 1300 and dosnt really change with the idle adjustor.. but still thanks guys



    Vance
    15th November 2011 , 08:24 PM
    car: adm ae86
    engine: smallport 16v 4age
    problem: my engine doesnt have a oil pressure sender hooked up to the dash. is it just a 1 wire thing, or multiple wires? its a strange looking connection on the top of the sender so it has be confused. how would i go about connecting a wire to the sender? just a normal Y shaped connector crimped on the wire and pushed on the end of the sender?



    lolwat
    15th November 2011 , 09:38 PM
    yea man 1 wire, switches earth to the light, and its yellow black or yellow green on your cluster (trace the metal strips on back of cluster)


    sorry thats for a ke 70 cluster, bp 4 age, i doubt the clutster colour would be differ but they might



    ktm372
    2nd January 2012 , 12:19 PM
    Car: AE71
    Enigine: 16V BP 4AGE
    Problem: Having dizzy issues; it spat the metal needle off the rotor button the other day, it bent one of the pins in the dizzy cap and there was a lot of broken and brittle plastic in the cap as well. cleaned it out and straighted the bent pin, bought a new button, put it in and it fired straight up, it ran sweet. Went to start it the next day and now has no spark?? im stumped. I have a coil pack from a daewoo would it be worth while wiring this up? as the car is running a razorback ecu.



    Sam-Q
    24th January 2012 , 08:51 AM
    due to people not getting enough replies to their requests I am going to close this section and let people start new threads as per previously.