T50 Poping out of Gear

[Eircamae86]

Bit of a strange one, just done the clutch in the car, & replaced the Gearbox Oil etc, went for a trash tonight & the box was throwing gears right from the start, 1st Mostly then 2nd, The tunnel seemed to get very hot.
Then all of a sudden this strange episode stopped & the car drove well for another hour. Sounds stupid but would the gearbox oil effect this at all, I put 80w in. Surely its a wore syncro that is the cause of this problem but why would it stop?

[H8CHIR6KU]

was it throwing gears before you changed your clutch and gearbox oil?

also how much oil did you put in the box and where did you fill it from?

when you took the selector out did you make sure it went in with bush on?

[slydar]

the only thing i can think of, maybe if you messed with either the spigot bearing, (in the crank) or the release bearing carrier guide (the thing the input shaft goes through).. the spacer behind there.

seeing as you did the clutch maybe you replaced the spigot bearing.. didnt push it in far enough, and it was putting pressure on input shaft.

or you left the spacer out, after replacing the seal?

either of those things could maybe miss align the clusters...?

guessing. just suggestions cos you did the clutch.

[Eircamae86]

Ok, I left the release bearing on (felt good) as it was very tight & I had basic tools & little time, didnt mess with anything else. But I did for the 1st time fill the box from the top after I had bolted everything up, it was a time thing once again. about 1.8 Ltrs Wasnt throwing gears & isnt now!

[H8CHIR6KU]

ok

i have filled a t50 from the top before and found it didn't drain properly into the box straight away but took awhile to drain into the main body of the box

i pulled apart a t50 not long ago andwhile there is a drain from the rear to the main shell the drain is very small.

more than likely when you first drove it there was fuck all oil in the box and as you drove it it drained down.

my theory anyway

[Eircamae86]

ok

i have filled a t50 from the top before and found it didn't drain properly into the box straight away but took awhile to drain into the main body of the box

i pulled apart a t50 not long ago andwhile there is a drain from the rear to the main shell the drain is very small.

more than likely when you first drove it there was fuck all oil in the box and as you drove it it drained down.

my theory anyway
It took the oil very quickly, but yes thats a definate possibility.

[Sprinter86]

a previous t50 of mine started to do this, but mine only did it in 2nd, and when i pulled it apart, the splines on the 2nd gear were severy rounded, so it couldnt stay selected :S doesnt sound like this is ur problem though.

[Eircamae86]

a previous t50 of mine started to do this, but mine only did it in 2nd, and when i pulled it apart, the splines on the 2nd gear were severy rounded, so it couldnt stay selected :S doesnt sound like this is ur problem though.

Im starting to like option A, its cheaper! Yes thats it conversation over...
As I said as the start it was odd, happened tonight at Archy drift practise, messed up the 1st 10 runs easy, then spent the next hour trying 1 handed shit, then it was ok, enjoyed the rest of the night. Drove home not problems

[Jonny Rochester]

If you have trouble going into gear, with a slight click or crunch (or even refusing to go in at certain speeds), then you have a worn syncro. And your new oil is thicker that you were using. This can sort of be fixed going back to thin oil.

If the gearstick is going out of gear by itself while driving, then that is less common and means something very bad is up. Like worn dog teeth on the gear itself, and worn selector hubs. (Or hopefully just a rock or something jaming the shift linkages).

[Eircamae86]

If the gearstick is going out of gear by itself while driving, then that is less common and means something very bad is up. Like worn dog teeth on the gear itself, and worn selector hubs. (Or hopefully just a rock or something jaming the shift linkages).
Yes, in 1st 2 hands on the wheel while driving the car is now in neutral :shout: mother fcuker, give it 2nd & its out again :oh:
That was pretty much it for a while... I was pissed off as I have a spare T50 in the shed.... But as I said it took alot of track time after it stopped throwing gears with 100% no problem

[Jonny Rochester]

A friend of mine had a late model Commodore SS, manual. It would not go into gear properly. The Holden dealer gave a quote on a gearbox rebuid, so my friend just parked it for a month. Then decided to have a look. Turns out there were a few rocks just sitting on top of the gear stick, problem fixed. I got all proud and told him "that could never happen on a Toyota, because there would be a rubber boot there or something"... but you never know.

I say, if the problem has fixed itself, it must have been a stone or metal burr somewhere preventing full gear selection.

[Eircamae86]

What sort of money does it cost to have a T50 rebuilt? might get the 1 in the shed done incase, if its not too expensive like :S

[dave2221]

ok

i just had this problem.... it was the bearings in the box going cause the syncro's were worn.

I had my entire box rebuilt for $800..... not cheap. but full new internals and i now have a basically new box.

[MJ86]

Rather than spend $800 on a g.box that will most probably fail after multiple thrashings, you could find a steel case celica box,(can be had for reasonable money), an adapter plate and you will have a half decent box that will resist most attempts to destroy it, or you could go all out and use a supra box, big$$$$, i am pretty certain you would be able to achieve a celica steel case conversion for $800 maybe less, pretty sure Dave at AJPS sells or used to sell these adapter plates. I hope this helps mate
cheers.

[dave2221]

i would have done that, but time was off the essence.

this was a 4 day fix..... and they had to get parts from melbourne.

otherwise if i had known how bad i would have just gone supra box.

[LittleRedSpirit]

ok

i have filled a t50 from the top before and found it didn't drain properly into the box straight away but took awhile to drain into the main body of the box

i pulled apart a t50 not long ago andwhile there is a drain from the rear to the main shell the drain is very small.

more than likely when you first drove it there was fuck all oil in the box and as you drove it it drained down.

my theory anyway

Someone in Japan had modded my T50 to make this easier. I got a 92000klm T50 from a halfcut and it had had the drain from the shifter enlarged to allow the thing to be filled from the top in quick time. Works awesome. Although Ive never driven Immediately after filling it, soonest was around 20 minutes after, but it presented no problems. My old worn, ADm T50 used to slip out of third once in a blue moon.

[Eircamae86]

Have a spare T50 of unknown quality so no panic, when I get a bit more power I will start the look out for an upgrade. A few guys I know in the Rally scene all got rid of their W-series in 86s because they didnt like the ratios, went for a Ford box with bell house adpt.

[blair]

its probs cause you snap second every lap man!!

just get a heap of speed before it and you'll never have to down shift for that tight corner, does your handbrake work any good? would make it heaps easier aswel (mine doesnt = more fun and challenging ahhahaha)

[MJ86]

the only thing i can think of, maybe if you messed with either the spigot bearing, (in the crank) or the release bearing carrier guide (the thing the input shaft goes through).. the spacer behind there.

seeing as you did the clutch maybe you replaced the spigot bearing.. didnt push it in far enough, and it was putting pressure on input shaft.

or you left the spacer out, after replacing the seal?

either of those things could maybe miss align the clusters...?

guessing. just suggestions cos you did the clutch.

I think Slydar could have a couple of very valid points there, either way sounds like box out time again.If you have not installed the spigot bearing deep enough it will indeed place pressure on the point where the input shaft and the mainshaft connect although if this was happening to any great degree you would not get any gears when it is running, it would just grind and refuse to go into gear, same thing happens if the spigot bearing seizes. When you keep snapping it into second your cluster bearings will wear prematurely, and when you select second gear the cluster actually moves away from the mainshaft slightly and the resulting misallignment causes it to pop out of gear.
Clearances and shims are very important in a gearbox and losing them or getting clearances wrong can cause you shitloads of grief and possibly be expensive.