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dale_8888
3rd October 2005, 10:34 PM
Hey I was just wondering what is involved in rebuilding an engine other than ripping it apart and replacing all of the gaskets and blah blah blah.

Do you recommend getting new internals or just reconditioning the old ones? I frecondition, then how?

What sort of prices should I be expecting to pay with things like a gasket set, engine internals (if needed), etc?

Cheers.

sic86
4th October 2005, 09:35 PM
What engine is it?

Cheers

crazy86
5th October 2005, 10:37 AM
If all you do when you do a rebuild is replace the gaskets, then your missing the point of a rebuild, and missing a valuable opportunity to refresh the internals in your engine. What you should really ask is how much money do I want to spend. Cos if you have the whole engine apart, you could replace everything with special aftermarket parts, and get everything better than new, or you could replace everything with new stock items, to make the car as good as new, or you could just fit new bearings for example, to ensure that you get the best reliability out of your current setup.

Depends what you want, and how much you want to spend.

mattysshop
5th October 2005, 01:54 PM
exactly..depends on how much effort too..eg while mines apart, i am linishing the rods (and ofcourse weighing them afterwards)..making a gapless ring on the stock piston by using one of the old oil seperator rings ontop of the first compression ring..there are heaps of little tricks you can do..

Matty

dale_8888
5th October 2005, 02:04 PM
I was thinking maybe just polish up and get the carbo and crap of the original internals. Is that an option? or what that break stuff?

What would be like the difference between running aftermarket and stock parts like pistons, rods and crank in the GZE?

Anyone who's done it themselves say how much for themselves to do it and someone who got another person to do it.

How much pressure would you recommend to be the max with stock internals? I was thinking maybe like 12-14 with the SC14.

mattysshop
5th October 2005, 03:35 PM
well my build plan is project revs (http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forum/index.php?showtopic=1145) ..stock pistons, hone the bore a little, ACL rings, with my special top ring http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/emoticons/wink.gif , ACL bearings (mains and bigends), linished rods, if i can block acid bath..head i am getting a hand with from my mate who owns extreeme engineering for a mild port job, mostly just to clean up the cast lines, and shave .3-.4mm off the deck, using a .5mm TRD metal headgasket, new valve stem seals, maybe guids (depends how bad they are) and a full gasket set..

the gasket set, cost me $104.95 inlc GST for an ACL VRS kit, and front and rear seals (gotta love ya mates who are in the loop), acl rings and bearings are costing app $250..the head work varies..but i am getting it bounce tested, and 3 side surfaced..$500 max..all the honing, and bearing clearences myself, aswell as most of the labour putting it together..this is my first full engine tear down and rebuild that i am doing by-myself..but my mate is a engine builder who will keep an eye on how things are going..

mattysshop
5th October 2005, 03:35 PM
that sorta boost is a walk in the park even for a 200 000+ GZE..

verm69
5th October 2005, 05:38 PM
stock as a rock gze's have even been reported to run 20psi okay... or so i've herd http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/emoticons/happy.gif

dale_8888
5th October 2005, 09:34 PM
dayum!!! that's alot...out of a blower or turbo?

crazy86
5th October 2005, 09:51 PM
Originally posted by VeRm69@Oct 5 2005, 04:38 PM
stock as a rock gze's
= blower http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/emoticons/tongue.gif

Mabey just a different pulley

mattysshop
6th October 2005, 08:25 AM
not s/c turboed..i have heard of a guy on Toymods that was running 32psi inito a stock gze turbo..he spun 1 bearing after 6mts..replaced that bearing only..and away he went again..obviously if has aftermarket ecu etc..but internally stock..not even a rebuild..

dale_8888
6th October 2005, 02:20 PM
32psi = psycho!!!

Oh well good work to him for pushing the engine http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/emoticons/tongue.gif

So no rebuild you guy's reckon?

mattysshop
6th October 2005, 03:21 PM
depends how good it is to begin with..how many km's..how your going to drive it..what mods you have planned..how often it's been serviced..most cars in japan don't get serviced..so don't be suprised if you pull off your cam covers and find gunky crappy build up everywhere!

blackers
7th October 2005, 06:43 PM
Be careful linishing your conrods, I suggest that you invest in having them shot peened afterwards as the shot peening puts the surface of the rod under an even pressure, linishing removes this and can create weak spots along the rod. If you look at all the aftermarket rods you will notice the surface finsh on them is very slightly roughened, this is the shotpeening. Invest in having the engine professionally cleaned in a decarb bath or even a couple of runs thru a robowash will be better than not at all, ensure you liberally coat it with CRC or similar afterwards to prevent surface rust. The CRC will eventually evaporate leaving the engine protected and still clean (it will all evaporate after about a month) and as long as you can keep the dust away it will be fine. Try to keep your new engine as dirt/dust free as possible as this will reduce the lifespan of your new engine. Be sure to liberally oil the running surfaces of the white metal bearings, DO NOT use any lubricant on the back of the white metal bearings, the metal to metal contact provided by the rod/bearing cap helps to retain the bearing in its place and prevent premature failure. Use a small amount of oil in the bores when you slide the pistons in, some say don't use any as it prevents the rings from bedding in, this is a crock of shite and whilst it may work on a race only motor I would highly recommend against this practice. Take your time, work to a plan and check everything 3 times. I have access to some very accurate measuring equiptment and subsequently measure every clearance prior to assembly, this is a very slow and anal process but I've yet to have a motor fail. Try to use a new oil pump and fill it with petroleum jelly, the melting point of this stuff is about 35'c and it will help to create a seal inside the pump which allows it to pickup oil on initial start up. After the motor is built and in the car, take the plugs out, take the rocker cover off and wind the motor over on the starter til oil comes out the supply line/holes in the head. I also disconnect the fuel lines and/or pump power supply prior to this. Any other questions feel free to ask.
Cheers
Blackers

Disclaimer; I am a plant mechanic for a CAT dealer, I have spent about 2 years building motors for a living and believe this makes me qualified to speak about the subject! A V16 rebuild starts at $200k and can go as high as $450k, you fork one of these up and no amount of lube will prevent the pineapple scarring you for life!

duo
3rd December 2005, 05:43 PM
once you pull it apart your gonna have to replace everything, just replaceing some stuff is a waste and can f*** shit up later on, if you have the cash$$$ take it to like JHH FOR A balance and blueprint makes em rev like motorbikes lol

rthy
3rd December 2005, 05:46 PM
WTF is a blueprint for? and how do you do it? sounds like something that you do to an old V-8 not a 4age

Julz01
4th December 2005, 11:36 AM
I think blueprinting is process of lightening the internals of the engine. Generally Ive heard of alot of people doing it in v8s n stuff probably because the internals would be quite heavy in the older engines.

ae86levint
4th December 2005, 12:55 PM
its more an effort to get all the conrods, pistons to weigh the same and balancing of the crank so no part is "fighting" the engine from spinning freely and smooth, all race cars will have this done.