backlash, prolonging failure

[seek]

hey guys

it seems that the backlash in my borgwarner is out (with the car traveling along at any speed with zero throttle, its whisper quiet, with throttle on it whines) and there is freeplay in the tailshaft

i know it will eventually fail, but im trying to prolong this for the mean time, so my question is, what can i do to prolong its death?

currently its got fresh (Read: 1 week old oil, and its slightly overfilled) LSX90 castrol crap (that was $8, win) and im considering getting some thicker penrite 10 tenths oil for it, but im unsure as to if it will actaully do anything?

after searching what oils everyone uses, it can be gathered that the weight of oil is less of an issue then the frequency at which you change the oil?

so, in essence, with my backlash whine, what should i best do?

[anastasios]

buy a new diff

[Gunner]

dont thrash it. save ur pennys and get a new one.

[slide86]

cheapest fix = a banana peel

[GAKI86]

^^ are you serious? if so, please give any viable proof.. otherwise he likes monkeys and bananas..

[Gilly]

i have heard of this but don't see how it works, always thought it was for the comical benefit of the "suggester" watchng the "suggestee" attempt to insert said peel into the filler plug

[dustyae86]

LSX90 is an LSD oil

[obey wan boenny]

^ what I was thinking... :huh:

[seek]

lol yeh i know, its all that was really there at the time

[dustyae86]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (seek @ Nov 28 2007, 11:06 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=443395)</div>
lol yeh i know, its all that was really there at the time[/b]

dodgey way of fixing it, if you have access to a rattle gun take your tailshaft out and on the front of the diff housing is a nut do that up and "feel" your back lash :2thumbs:

[Jonny Rochester]

The noise you have in the diff does not necessarily mean the backlash is out. But it does mean something was out last it was adjusted. And the noise sort of means its too late. You can adjust it right now, but the noise will probably always be there, untill you buy a new crown wheel and pinion. The diff will probably last a long time with that noise, its just annoying on the highway.

You will notice the noise is not as bad in the morning, when the diff oil is cold and thick. Thicker oil will make it quiter a little, but only untill it warms up, and a diff does get fairly warm.

I have tried the bananna peal also, and yes it may work a little.

Don't waste money on expensive diff oil, especialy if your diff is already stuffed. A standard car will survive 30 years without a diff oil change.

[Gilly]

Johnny why do diff gears go noisey

i had a set of 4.6's that were loud as a banshee yet to look at them they looked fine

what makes the noise and why, I'm calling on your wealth of intelligence to quench my thirst for knowledge :P

[shinny]

i don't any thing wrong with changing the oil..........it can't do any harm,

i'm running LSD oil in my welded s series, the way i see it LSD oil has a friction modifier to stop LSD lcutches wearing out so i can't see why its a bad thing putting LSD oil in a normal diff,
-but you can't fix a whining diff with better oil-

mine also whines/starting to whine.....best thing to is save for a new/less rooted diff,

[sprintdaddy]

Just changing oil will do you no good, nor will tightening the pinion nut , that will just fuck your pinion bearings faster. How long has it been whining? if you take it to a diff shop they might be able to fix it for a reasonable price, depends what is wrong with it of course but if you just buy another diff it could turn out to be just as bad as yours. LSD oil will not hurt your diff, i worked in a diff shop a few moons ago and we used LSD oil for everything for the simple reason that yes it has friction modifiers in it and that is a good thing for your diff.

Like it or not if you want to fix your diff you will have to spend some money.

[Jonny Rochester]

I'm not realy the diff expert. I can rebuild them by the book, but it takes a bit more experience to get it perfect.

Basicaly the teeth contact pattern has to be right. The contact area needs to be in the middle. Once its together , you use die like bearing blue to check the contact between the crown wheel and pinion teeth. To adjust it, you need to change the shim between the pinion and its big bearing. This requires a press, and some mesurement, maybe a new shim.

The other things is pinion bearing preload. This is hard to get right, and sometimes imposible to follow the Toyota book. (The Toyota book is sometimes wrong on this subject). For a good job you may need a new crush washer, and a mini torque wrench.

Next is side bearing preload, and backlash. This is not so hard. Follow the book on this. Use a dial gauge for backlash, but make sure you have the right preload also.

People take short cuts putting it back together. And if one of the bearings is loose, the effective contact pattern changes and bits wear out.