20v Idle becomes very low when electrics on!

[Wanabe_Garage]

Hi

First of all I have no CD player or radio in the car.

The electrics the im assuming play with the idle are probably the EWP, fan, headlights and stepping on the brakes (brake lights or vacuum to the booster???)
Its an irritating problem i have had since I got an EWP and electric fan some years ago, sometimes the car will stall becuase its idling so low.

could it be the 20v alternator?

... I have an idea that I want to try and its to try and use the electrical idle up signal from the 12 pin on the ECU. I want to get a signal to the ecu when the fan or headlight or brakes are applied to maintain a steady idle

Im guessing I can maybe use the aircon idle up as well as that increases idle speed.

What sort of signal do i send to the ecu, voltage from a relay???
I dont want to burn out my ecu so I want be careful.



I welcome any other suggestions that may help! :2thumbs:

[Benno]

the engine ECU should monitor idle rpm and idle up when the alternator loads up, if it doesn't the the IAC valve is probably stuffed or slow on the uptake, you could try earthing out the A/C request signal (or the powersteer presure signal)on the ECU to get bump the idle up, but if that works then your IAC valve is ok, and that means you've got ECU problems.
try sussing your IAC valve first.

[andru_g]

sounds like the same issues i had.. never got it rectified due to other problems but was told power was being drained from the crank or sumthing along those lines but i hav nfi

but good idea to get it fixed.. wouldn't want it to cut out when gearing down along a busy road like ballarat rd here in melb which resulted in rear wheel lock up and the back end flickin out a bit.. wont be driving my car on the rd again til i get stuff like that fixed

[Wanabe_Garage]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (andru_g @ Dec 3 2007, 10:31 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=445870)</div>
sounds like the same issues i had.. never got it rectified due to other problems but was told power was being drained from the crank or sumthing along those lines but i hav nfi

but good idea to get it fixed.. wouldn't want it to cut out when gearing down along a busy road like ballarat rd here in melb which resulted in rear wheel lock up and the back end flickin out a bit.. wont be driving my car on the rd again til i get stuff like that fixed[/b]

that would be scary.

however my car will only cut out without any throttle input, ie waiting at the lights for too long... ballerat rd too :lol: :sleepy:

I dont really want to touch the ISCV its still on factory settings

[andru_g]

any progress on this? iwant the answer too :D

[Gunner]

run your car with electrics off and a multimeter across battery terminals,

check the voltage,

turn electrics on,

check voltage again, alternator should be holding it somewhere above 12v

if it drops and stays there or keeps droppin get your alternator checked

[Wanabe_Garage]

check over the whole electrics and wiring and fuse boxes, I had a good look at my wiring and relised it was a little overkill as I had a seperate pwr cable for each piece of electrics and was draining heaps of pwr.

I managed to clean it up slightly with a massive improvement in warm idling, 900rpm and its very still (a little lower with the fan on)