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RussianMafia000
13th December 2007, 10:37 PM
I've just got my car back from getting a tune and I've got a bit of axle tramp problem. The car is a sr20 ke70 and I'm running a Hilux rear end/LSD.
I've currently got a pair of falcon springs that have been cut down a bit, but I've still got the standard shocks in there.
If I upgrade to some VB-VL live axle shocks do you think that will solve my problem??

Benno
13th December 2007, 10:40 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (-=GOODY=- @ Dec 13 2007, 09:37 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=452008)</div>
I've just got my car back from getting a tune and I've got a bit of axle tramp problem. The car is a sr20 ke70 and I'm running a Hilux rear end/LSD.
I've currently got a pair of falcon springs that have been cut down a bit, but I've still got the standard shocks in there.
If I upgrade to some VB-VL live axle shocks do you think that will solve my problem??[/b]
change the pinion angle

RussianMafia000
13th December 2007, 10:43 PM
How do I do that exactly?? Does the diff have to come out?

Benno
13th December 2007, 10:52 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (-=GOODY=- @ Dec 13 2007, 09:43 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=452018)</div>
How do I do that exactly?? Does the diff have to come out?[/b]
your mounts were cut and welded onto a G diff, probably not in exactly the right spot's(they never are)

look for aftermarket adjustable trailing arms, even if it's just the top arms you'll be able to wind the pinoin angle back and stop the axle hop

you're looking at the diff pinion angle in relation to the horizontal, it could be a trial and error thing.

shocks would help abit too, you've got a lot more unsprung weight in the rear now

blair
14th December 2007, 10:46 AM
put your foot down harder :P

Gilly
14th December 2007, 11:48 AM
traction brackets are cheaper then four links both of which will help/correct the problem

they bolt on to your lower diff mounts and extend the section your trailing arms bolt to thus somewhat correcting tramp by altering the pinion angle and preventing the diff from trying to "roll over". Once lowered the arms aren't flat they angle upwards giving the diff a tendency to push the nose down further and want to flip or roll forward (it can't do this but it wants to which causes the hopping tramp action)

Dom86
14th December 2007, 12:10 PM
nolathane bushes or similar will help also on standard arms, and reduce slop.

RussianMafia000
14th December 2007, 12:17 PM
Where abouts should I look to find a cheap pair of adjustable trailing arms and/or traction brackets?
This might sound stupid but am I able to just cut and shut the ones alrady on there is or this a bad idea?

Dom86
14th December 2007, 01:22 PM
dont know about a cut n shut.

...but check the site sponsers for both.

you should be able to get away with top adjustable arms and bushes for the bottom.

RussianMafia000
14th December 2007, 02:15 PM
Yeh I'll keep looking through and see if I can find anything, I might have some nolathane bushes sitting in the shed so that might save me a little bit :)

Dom86
14th December 2007, 02:42 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Gilly @ Dec 14 2007, 08:48 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=452193)</div>
Once lowered the arms aren't flat they angle upwards giving the diff a tendency to push the nose down further and want to flip or roll forward (it can't do this but it wants to which causes the hopping tramp action)[/b]

hey gilly, you got that round the wrong way.

if you lower the car the nose of the diff will angle up. under acceleration the wheels move forward making the diff nose want to rotate further upwards.

to counter this you shorten the top arms making the nose angle slightly down (below horizotal with the tail shaft), so that when you accelerate the diff and tail shaft are opperating at horizontal or close to.

Dom86
14th December 2007, 02:46 PM
also try us e-bay.

they have some cheap stuff, dont know about quality, but they sell top and bottom arms seperatly. i saw traction brackets too.

Gilly
14th December 2007, 06:28 PM
my bad :P

as for 4 links i had them but sold all my sets. I have traction brackets but need them ;)

Jonny Rochester
14th December 2007, 08:34 PM
As the other guys said, you want your trailing arms to be near horzontal. Change the mounting points otherwise. And you want the diff pointing down just a little to compensate for movement in the bushes.

Then you want new shocks, hopefully adjustable ones so you can experiment.

Commodore wagon shocks are not an upgrade, they just happen to be the same dimensions and fit. The upgrade will come from having fresh shocks (not old ones), and choosing the brand and model.

RussianMafia000
15th December 2007, 01:46 AM
Thanks for the help :) How come a brand new set of VB-VL shocks wouldn't be an upgrade? They are supposed to be a fair bit stiffer aren't they?
I'm not looking to spend crazy amounts of money so I need a cheap solution.
I might take some pics tommorow of the rear end to see what you think is my best choice.

r3zzz4
15th December 2007, 10:06 AM
I have VB wagon shocks in my car, they aren't that much stiffer, it's the fact your bound and rebound are more similar due to the stroke length being shorter.

In other words they work more effectively in both directions making them seem like they are stiffer, really they just work properly for the ride height.

Standard height shocks in a lowered car are stiff on the down stroke but want to push the car up rapidly on the upstroke making it bounce pretty severly on bumpy roads.

Any one correct me if I have got this wrong, but thats what mine did and the VB wagon shocks helped greatly.

And they are cheap and easy to get.

RussianMafia000
13th January 2008, 03:39 PM
I've just put some vl wagon shocks in for now and it has made the car a bit stiffer and less bouncy, but the axle tramp seems to have gotten a bit worse, but only when I'm going in a straight line. When sliding it's fine..

Are these the sort of thing I'm after?
http://www.ajps.com.au/pics/SV301032b.jpg

Mr Fujiwara
13th January 2008, 04:05 PM
say if i have an old GC galant, makes a bit of power, but its got THE WORST axel tram ive ever experienced, drop the clutch at 3 or above and its so bad it can stall the engine, so you kinda have to ride it outta a corner to get any sort of wheel spin.


if i was so lower the car (in the rear) and put in my set of KYB shocks which came with the car, woudl this change the angle enough to help it??

i could lower it a good 2 inches.

RussianMafia000
13th January 2008, 08:19 PM
Does anyone know where I can pick those up pretty cheap?

RussianMafia000
16th January 2008, 12:32 PM
This might be a stupid question but after putting in some new vl wagon shocks in the rear to make the car a bit stiffer I've noticed the axle tramp has gotten worse. Would this be because of the longer stroke of the shocks??

I've had the car taken to a suspension specialist for a quick look and he has told me my pinion angle needs to be pointed down more but can't give a definate answer how much. just a trial and error thing.
Instead of buying some trailing arms I've elongated the mount holes where the lower arms go to (cheap & dodgey I know) to try and move the pinion downwards a bit which it has but I'm thinking I need to go a bit more as it's still happening??

Can anyone tell me what sort of angle their pinion sits on when the car is on the ground??