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70XIN
18th January 2008, 01:47 AM
Got some big offset wheels? Guard roller can't get it done? Don't want ridiculous looking riveted-on guards? This is one of the few ways to get around it

I will start by saying, this isn't the hardest mod to do at all, but it takes time and is awfully brutal to do something that's nice. Since this wasn't my own car, and rob wanted to model his car around his wheels, then this was the go.



Brand new Work Equip 03's. 8.5" wide, with -22 offset. These are possibly one of the best wheels there is that could grace an 86.

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/8/4/3/160551.jpg

Obviously, they will never ever ever fit under standard guards, even with the slightly stretched tyres as seen below.

http://img240.imageshack.us/img240/3337/86367322ey2.jpg

So, guard flare time. First, get one of your minions to jack up the car

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/8/4/3/162908.jpg

We're going to be cutting slits in the guard, allowing us to pull out significantly more metal than with a guard roller. It won't warp the area above the
guard either!

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/8/4/3/162909.jpg

Yours truly cutting the shit out the guard. Would be a nightmare to any car owner seeing this happen .. but it only gets worse.

http://img119.imageshack.us/img119/7127/l1030814vf1.jpg

Now, you can pull out the outer lip by itself, or if you are requiring even more clearance, you can pull out the inner lip. You can vaguely see what i mean.

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/8/4/3/162911.jpg

More of above

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/8/4/3/162912.jpg

Now you can see where the outer lip finishes (white), and the inner lip has been pulled out (silvery-brown area). Looking terrible isn't it?

http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/3187/l1030825yi9.jpg

70XIN
18th January 2008, 01:47 AM
Now you can start to see how much the guard is coming out over stock. Where the masking tape is, the guard went straight down, now instead has come out on an angle well over an inch.

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/8/4/3/162914.jpg

Test fitting the wheel, you can see that we're getting pretty close to the size we need to clear the wheel/tyre combo.

http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/9766/l1030830wp6.jpg

On the second furthest right cut, and the furthest left cut, you can see that the lip has been ground down a bit on an angle by the grinder to keep the shape of the guard a little.

http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/5859/l1030837do1.jpg

Next step can be done by silicon, or by welding. I'd suggest the latter, but we didn't have the time, nor care for it. See below for more info.

http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/8545/l1030842kt6.jpg

We didn't show it, but the inner guard and outer guard were tack welded together, and were stopping additional flaring. We had to cut these tacks, and remove the offending pieces of inner guard. This now left a gap between the inner and outer. Unprotected metal + moisture = rust, which most ae86's will have enough of this to start with. So we sealed it up with silicon! Simple!

http://img116.imageshack.us/img116/4950/l1030846qr5.jpg

On with the fibreglass! Remember, wear gloves, and dont rub your eyes when you're handling the stuff. It hurts, trust jesus!

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/8/4/3/162919.jpg

With the fibreglass on, and now sanded back, we started with the body filler. Sure, we put heaps on, and 90% of it is going to be sanded off anyway, but we didnt have time on our hands.

http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/9650/l1030870kh2.jpg

After a couple of layers of filler and sanding, we were getting fairly happy with the shape. Dremel with a cut-off blade was then used to neatly cut (lol) a better shape to the guard.

http://img174.imageshack.us/img174/689/l1030874vt7.jpg

70XIN
18th January 2008, 01:48 AM
A few coats of primer-filler (primer, thats slightly thicker, so can fill in little scratches and dimples), a few dabs of nitro-cellulose(?) putty (to fill in bigger imperfections), now all we had to do was wait for the paint and such to dry overnight.

http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/1594/l1030876hp1.jpg

Next morning, sanded it back and put some more filler in places we werent happy with, and applied more primer filler.

http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/6097/l1030887dd2.jpg

Loads of little imperfections, scratches, or humps. Very very minor so they were just filled with putty.

http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/4531/l1030893qm4.jpg

One can of export's finest, and things were looking bettereerrerrer.

http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/5538/l1030894iu2.jpg

Not bad for a can job, at night, with the weather against us.

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/8/4/3/162926.jpg

And the finished product. Sexy time.

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/8/4/3/162870.jpg

Yum

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/8/4/3/162662.jpg


We rushed this somewhat, as rob is an impatient kent, and it still took 2 'full' days. The main time burner is the drying of fibreglass, body filler, and paint ..

There will be problems with the spulling and,grammers,,,of this article. But leave that be, i'm tired. Thanks, Seamus

slide86
18th January 2008, 01:57 AM
you, my man, are a f**king legend.

top top top post and info, shall help many. i might even do it to my bluey so i can fit the exact same wheel on there!

DRFTPG
18th January 2008, 09:51 AM
Is this in the FAQ section? best thread ever!! thankyou so much 70XIN.

japlish
18th January 2008, 10:17 AM
Not bad

Of course you can flare without cutting the guard as much. Rolling out the guard then using a good hammer does a similar job. You have to separate the inner guard from the outer though and add in a bit of sheet metal to fill in the gap. Pushes the whole guard out not just the lip. Your way would be easier for most.

blair
18th January 2008, 10:31 AM
well done.

finally someoe who puts effort into documenting what they do
so others can learn also

:) p.s. i just sounded like a fag didnt i?

haha

skin
18th January 2008, 12:05 PM
Yea good write up

Only thing i would suggest is to get the hammer and dolly and get a better shape out of the metal.
For instance

First pic in 3rd post you can see mainly the bottom of the metal flares out... like a half pipe

Probably look better if it pumped out more to the bottom of the guard

Dam hard to explain

Meh looks sick anyways

skin
18th January 2008, 12:22 PM
ah and you should have welded those guards

eightsixboy
18th January 2008, 12:47 PM
hey quick question, how did you get the paint to look so good from a can? I repainted a similar area on my car but looks crap as compared to yours, i couldn't get a very good gloss finish. Was is just a clear top coat over the paint?

Cheers

70XIN
18th January 2008, 01:06 PM
The primer was wet-sanded with 320-grit (fairly rough!!), then painted with the 'touch up paints' available at supercheap. Supercheap spraycans are 100 better than autobarn and repco paints, just remember that .. no i dont know why .. i just have more luck with them

No clear coat, just four or five coats of paint. Spray on a light coat first, then layer it on, without getting runs.

johl
18th January 2008, 03:20 PM
any closer pics of finished gaurd?

chapl
18th January 2008, 03:54 PM
man.. that shit might rust ey

Patto
18th January 2008, 06:20 PM
might do a write up when i do the widebody rear on the panno...

stefan
18th January 2008, 10:18 PM
really good write up look dope now

time for fronts

obey wan boenny
18th January 2008, 11:42 PM
thanks for the write up! :)

very very useful.

biggo
19th January 2008, 12:10 AM
indeed

thats exactly what i did. cept more hammering and less angle grinding. still i recomend the cut/glass/bog stlye but atlest mack sure you use rust converter on the shit befor covering it. we got 10mm over what was normally a guard flaring jobbie. could go wider but i dont have stupidly wide rims ahahaha

70XIN
19th January 2008, 12:16 AM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (biggo @ Jan 18 2008, 11:10 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=471178)</div>
indeed

thats exactly what i did. cept more hammering and less angle grinding. still i recomend the cut/glass/bog stlye but atlest mack sure you use rust converter on the shit befor covering it. we got 10mm over what was normally a guard flaring jobbie. could go wider but i dont have stupidly wide rims ahahaha[/b]

you do, you're just too much of a pussy to put them on



ouch. something smells like burning around here? :crazy:

biggo
19th January 2008, 12:58 AM
...is it my rubber going in and out to fast?

i dont reall have 80mm more to spare unless i cut up my doors

skin
19th January 2008, 03:34 AM
what size wheels we talking?

I fit 9 inch -15 under stock guards

johl
19th January 2008, 10:42 AM
they are 14x10 -37 and 14x12 -51 Watanabes by the sounds of his f/s thread. crazy n2 spec required.

skin
19th January 2008, 10:54 AM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (johl @ Jan 19 2008, 10:42 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=471284)</div>
they are 14x10 -37 and 14x12 -51 Watanabes by the sounds of his f/s thread. crazy n2 spec required.[/b]


Ah now thats a different story :lol:

steroidchickens
19th January 2008, 05:17 PM
i did not cut the outer panel at all to flare mine. it was alot easier to get the lip round. although good write up.
i cut inside out then got 2 sledge hammers then stretched it until it made a nice curve. then welded sheet steel inside to reseal the quarter.

SNAP
7th February 2008, 09:48 PM
hey man not a bad wright up at all, i don't reckon that u need to go to the extent of cutting the guard like that,here are some pics of my ke70 front guard, done with a shifter and a hammer and dolly set from super steep autos, not complete, though u can see that u can get good shape and flare with an $18 hammer and dolly kit and half n hour

PuGZoR
8th February 2008, 01:35 PM
Nice write up, good amount of useful pictures too.

Just one suggestion though... I'd imagine the cuts would be neater if you used something like a jigsaw (with a metal blade, obviously), or an air powered device of similar design. Not 100% sure, but would probably make the little sections require less straightening post-cut, reducing the amount of bogging, etc, you'd have to do...

I'd even be tempted to fibreglass on the inside of the guard, then run bog over the top to fill in the gaps if the cut sections are reasonably neat, instead of doing a layer of bog over the fibreglass on the outside of the guards. Mind you, I'm definatly no expert in this area. Don't even know if you could get it not to sag while it's drying. But, having said that, it's probably worth a shot... Depends on the gaps between the pieces of metal I guess.

tricky_dan
8th February 2008, 03:40 PM
far out best article out there! nice work man! 2 days is a pretty neat time as well~ just wondering what sort of times were left for fibreglass/bog/filler/paint to dry? would u say you'd get a better (or stronger job) if u left each application of bog for like 12 hours? or can u really do the whole thing in 2 days without anything bad happening?

70XIN
8th February 2008, 04:56 PM
To the guy above who did the dolly-work, that is awesome!! I don't know about your car so much, but with a sprinters guards (rear), they are VERY strong and welded together, so it was kinda difficult to bash them out. Yes, some have definitely done it, but it isnt as easy as the front guards (which look exactly like yours).

Summarised: For the front guards on a sprinter, your idea is the best by far, and what i have done on my own. On the rear though, could be difficult.


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (PuGZoR @ Feb 8 2008, 12:35 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=482504)</div>
Nice write up, good amount of useful pictures too.

Just one suggestion though... I'd imagine the cuts would be neater if you used something like a jigsaw (with a metal blade, obviously), or an air powered device of similar design. Not 100% sure, but would probably make the little sections require less straightening post-cut, reducing the amount of bogging, etc, you'd have to do...

I'd even be tempted to fibreglass on the inside of the guard, then run bog over the top to fill in the gaps if the cut sections are reasonably neat, instead of doing a layer of bog over the fibreglass on the outside of the guards. Mind you, I'm definatly no expert in this area. Don't even know if you could get it not to sag while it's drying. But, having said that, it's probably worth a shot... Depends on the gaps between the pieces of metal I guess.[/b]

I'm sure it would be neater, would it be able to cut through the 3(?) layers of metal easily though?

Unfortunately we didnt have either tool, had to make do with just the grinder :( good idea though!!

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (tricky_dan @ Feb 8 2008, 02:40 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=482570)</div>
far out best article out there! nice work man! 2 days is a pretty neat time as well~ just wondering what sort of times were left for fibreglass/bog/filler/paint to dry? would u say you'd get a better (or stronger job) if u left each application of bog for like 12 hours? or can u really do the whole thing in 2 days without anything bad happening?[/b]

Bog took a few hours, fibreglass took pretty well overnight. Having those 2 big spotlights, even during the day, sped up drying times IMMENSELY, and are cheap as chips from supercheap, definitely worth it.

I will also add, that in hindsight, there are a few things i would have done differently:

- Instead of just cutting the inside guard from the outside and bashing the inside guard up, i would cut a good section of the inner guard out. The tyres still seemed to hit the metaleven though theyh were most of the way up against the outer guard

- Bashing the inside guard, you will miss and hit the bog .. it cracks it

- Riveting on a set of origin guards, and fibreglassing them on would be easier, and probably look better



I'm WAY jetlagged from canada, \\so i need to rest. Sorry if it makes little sense

-

Saikou
8th February 2008, 05:49 PM
very nice !! =D
looks hawt !!

SNAP
8th February 2008, 11:02 PM
[quote]
To the guy above who did the dolly-work, that is awesome!! I don't know about your car so much, but with a sprinters guards (rear), they are VERY strong and welded together, so it was kinda difficult to bash them out. Yes, some have definitely done it, but it isnt as easy as the front guards (which look exactly like yours).

Summarised: For the front guards on a sprinter, your idea is the best by far, and what i have done on my own. On the rear though, could be difficult.

hey man thanks for that, i know exactly what your saying! I'm planning to do the rears soon, well both front and rear on my sprinter, those pics were just a test on the Ke and your right the rears are same a sprinter on the Ke but I'm gonna get one of those air cut off tools, small bad ass blade spinning its bean off, and I'm going to cut out the inner and mould the guard exactly the same way as the font and it will be perfect!!! i'll try get some pics, all the Ke on needs is a bit more shape around the center of the flare and tidy up by cutting along the black line. its really not hard to do and u only need a small amount of filler to make it perfect.

Konakid
11th February 2008, 05:06 PM
Good write up. However it is easier if both inner and outer guards are cut as the inner sheet metal can bend more easily with the relief cuts. Fibreglass filler or fibreglass strips on the outside is the best way, followed by bogging will get the best finish and keep some strength within the guard still. Glassing the inside is also a good idea to further strengthen the guard and prevent the tyre from being ripped if it does make contact.

A dolly and roller would be neater when pulling the guard out also, it would help retain the natural curve of the guard as it comes out.

Great idea of putting the rim and tyre on the car so you know exactly how much to flare, makes it impossible to not get good fitment! top job.

johl
12th February 2008, 01:13 AM
correct me if I'm wrong but u could in my eyes jack the car up remove rear wheels, make relief cuts, bend out a little, take springsa out, put wheels back on, put newspaper ontop of tyre so u get 5-10mm of clearance from tyre, then slowly lower the car down so it will bend both sides evenly and will also shape around ur tyre. then fibreglass to retain the shape.


so correct me if I'm wrong?

SNAP
12th February 2008, 01:13 PM
i personally think do away with the butchering, get a air cut off tool, with a small razer sharp metal cutting disc, and cut out the inner rear guard, leaving the outer skin, and get out your hammer and dolly! cutting and fiberglass and silicone really looks like a average job and what happens to fiberglass? it doesnt like to flex so get a lit tap and it will crack so will your 1inch of bog, all u should need is a light layer of bog to fill the imperfections, u can see how good u can get the guards without cutting them up. ill post some pics when i do the sprinter

Konakid
12th February 2008, 02:11 PM
^^ The whole reason for cutting the guard is to achieve MORE flare than what you can with only rolling the outer guard, its also much easier to just cut and roll/pull than spend ages rolling and rolling.

Patto
12th February 2008, 02:40 PM
well the way i do the rear is to cut through the top of the inner guard all the way around until the inner and outer are seperated then i just jack the outer half away from the inner to the desired distance then weld in a new section in the space between the inner and outer
then you need to add a piece to the rear edge of door because you actually move the whole outer guard out from it's original position
this allows the wheel and tyre to actually have travel into the wheel well ............
when i did callum's we achieved 35mm increase in the rear had to add 20mm to the door to make it look "stock"
factory arch is pretty much still stock

before
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/8/4/3/161941.jpg

after

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/8/4/3/161942.jpg

SNAP
12th February 2008, 03:04 PM
it is everyone's choice to go about it the best way they think, but it did only take me no more that 40mins to do one guard, no cutting at all, i believe that hammer and dolly is the best way by far, its neater, and u can stretch the sheet metal if u need and still keep a really good shape, i don't see how cutting the guard gets u any extra flare, all i can see is that some people may think the guard may warp?? I'm not sure, but u can see that it doesnt. i dno i just cring seeing the grinder getting into those guards......

86xxx
12th February 2008, 03:19 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Dr!ft_Sh@gg!n_W@g0n @ Feb 12 2008, 02:40 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=484454)</div>
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/8/4/3/161942.jpg[/b]

No offense mate, but look at how dimpled that gaurd is...

Its got me stuffed how anyone can talk themselves into just cutting a gaurd, bashing it around a bit to a shape that kind of resembles the original and then join it back up with silicon, fibreglass, bog and god only knows what. :blink:

Looking at some of these pics of people's attempts at flaring gaurds really make me cringe. :fap: ghetto style = FTL (n)

For anyone who's interested in knowing how a gaurd is meant to be flared, read on. Those who think ghetto is better, best not read it... Body works flare guards by cutting both the inner and outer above the original flare and then making a template (and then a piece to fit) to effectively space the original flare out. This way, you don't have the mangled mess of a gaurd left as seen many times on here, minimise the bog, have a structurally sound gaurd that looks factory.

But again, for some reason most members rather the sharp edged look and the botched up f*^ked up look so i don't see this method taking off in the future.... :(

v7da1
12th February 2008, 03:43 PM
anyone noz how to fit 10z but leave them sticking outz indo style ftw

skin
12th February 2008, 05:20 PM
Its all about welding the cuts back up for maximum strength

skin
12th February 2008, 05:21 PM
finished

PuGZoR
12th February 2008, 06:09 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Skin @ Feb 12 2008, 04:21 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=484534)</div>
finished[/b]
That's good guard flairage.

marvis
12th February 2008, 08:44 PM
Thats hot!

steroidchickens
12th February 2008, 09:18 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (SNAP @ Feb 12 2008, 01:13 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=484410)</div>
i personally think do away with the butchering, get a air cut off tool, with a small razer sharp metal cutting disc, and cut out the inner rear guard, leaving the outer skin, and get out your hammer and dolly! cutting and fiberglass and silicone really looks like a average job and what happens to fiberglass? it doesnt like to flex so get a lit tap and it will crack so will your 1inch of bog, all u should need is a light layer of bog to fill the imperfections, u can see how good u can get the guards without cutting them up. ill post some pics when i do the sprinter[/b]


thats how i did mine. each to there own i guess. but atlease i know if i ever hit anything it will hold together because there is only a skim of bog there. it is all metal.

johl
13th February 2008, 11:47 AM
Ghost86 Posted Yesterday, 02:43 PM
anyone noz how to fit 10z but leave them sticking outz indo style ftw


everytime u post we die a little inside.

gaurds look awesome steroids. how does ur rear bar line up now its been pulled out further?

SNAP
13th February 2008, 02:44 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (steroidchickens @ Feb 12 2008, 09:18 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=484890)</div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (SNAP @ Feb 12 2008, 01:13 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=484410)
i personally think do away with the butchering, get a air cut off tool, with a small razer sharp metal cutting disc, and cut out the inner rear guard, leaving the outer skin, and get out your hammer and dolly! cutting and fiberglass and silicone really looks like a average job and what happens to fiberglass? it doesnt like to flex so get a lit tap and it will crack so will your 1inch of bog, all u should need is a light layer of bog to fill the imperfections, u can see how good u can get the guards without cutting them up. ill post some pics when i do the sprinter[/b]


thats how i did mine. each to there own i guess. but atlease i know if i ever hit anything it will hold together because there is only a skim of bog there. it is all metal.
[/b][/quote]

yeah i agree, ive seen your guards out at oran park, definantly look good!

stefan
13th February 2008, 02:55 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (johl @ Feb 12 2008, 05:47 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=485188)</div>
Ghost86 Posted Yesterday, 02:43 PM
anyone noz how to fit 10z but leave them sticking outz indo style ftw


everytime u post we die a little inside.

gaurds look awesome steroids. how does ur rear bar line up now its been pulled out further?[/b]


get big flare AND HEKTIK offsets y0

seriously dude please write correct english

Matt-AE86
13th February 2008, 04:31 PM
1. Go and buy a dolly, a concave one is prefered
2. Get a hammer for used for nailing wood. These are good as they are curved and do not leave marks if you hit in the wrong spot
3. you want to start clipping of the tabs inside the gaurd (front only) that hold the cover on
4. Start tapping the inside lip up
5. depending on how you want it you can smash the inside lip completely flat or just a bit. One will give you a sharp flat edge the other iwll give a nice round finished edge (can be fixed later with some bog
6. put the dolly on the outside first and start hitting the main downards lip out a little, start along hte edge and take it slow.

By now you will have a semi flare not much more then standard

7. now put hte dolly on the inside and start lightly hitting the original line


Repeat 6 and 7 until desired flare is done. Have done this for multiple people and they now have taken my skills with them.

Ade_Mc
13th February 2008, 05:15 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (slippry @ Feb 13 2008, 02:55 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=485313)</div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (johl @ Feb 12 2008, 05:47 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=485188)
Ghost86 Posted Yesterday, 02:43 PM
anyone noz how to fit 10z but leave them sticking outz indo style ftw


everytime u post we die a little inside.

gaurds look awesome steroids. how does ur rear bar line up now its been pulled out further?[/b]


get big flare AND HEKTIK offsets y0

seriously dude please write correct english
[/b][/quote]

he can't help like me! indo style, bangsat all the way! haha luv the indo style...the taxis' there crack me up...huge cannons etc!

steriod..would liek to see picks.
anyhow i'm taking the easy way out, and installing bolt on flares.
anyone know where i can get tappet screws to bolt the flares in?
tried bunnings they only got the long stuff for brick etc.

Konakid
13th February 2008, 10:19 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (SNAP @ Feb 12 2008, 02:04 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=484463)</div>
it is everyone's choice to go about it the best way they think, but it did only take me no more that 40mins to do one guard, no cutting at all, i believe that hammer and dolly is the best way by far, its neater, and u can stretch the sheet metal if u need and still keep a really good shape, i don't see how cutting the guard gets u any extra flare, all i can see is that some people may think the guard may warp?? I'm not sure, but u can see that it doesnt. i dno i just cring seeing the grinder getting into those guards......[/b]

The relief cuts do exactly that, relive the metal from its tension so that it can be bent and shaped without popping in the top of the guard and also so that the guard can be pulled out as well, not just up.


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (medwin46 @ Feb 12 2008, 02:19 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=484473)</div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Dr!ft_Sh@gg!n_W@g0n @ Feb 12 2008, 02:40 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=484454)
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/8/4/3/161942.jpg[/b]

No offense mate, but look at how dimpled that gaurd is...

Its got me stuffed how anyone can talk themselves into just cutting a gaurd, bashing it around a bit to a shape that kind of resembles the original and then join it back up with silicon, fibreglass, bog and god only knows what. :blink:

Looking at some of these pics of people's attempts at flaring gaurds really make me cringe. :fap: ghetto style = FTL (n)

For anyone who's interested in knowing how a gaurd is meant to be flared, read on. Those who think ghetto is better, best not read it... Body works flare guards by cutting both the inner and outer above the original flare and then making a template (and then a piece to fit) to effectively space the original flare out. This way, you don't have the mangled mess of a gaurd left as seen many times on here, minimise the bog, have a structurally sound gaurd that looks factory.

But again, for some reason most members rather the sharp edged look and the botched up f*^ked up look so i don't see this method taking off in the future.... :(
[/b][/quote]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (70XIN @ Jan 18 2008, 12:48 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=470728)</div>
http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/5538/l1030894iu2.jpg

Not bad for a can job, at night, with the weather against us.[/b]

Yep, thats one sharp edged, botched up, ghetto looking guard right there..... :blink:

Not everyone wants their car to be show standard, metal fab like you are talking about costs a lot of money, the same flare was achieved for under $100 and is damn near perfect. Yeah, its not factory strong, but the car has stiff suspension so the tyres wont hit the guards, even if they do, the point of the fibreglass strips are to reinforce the cut area.

One thing i would do personally, is bend the front guard lip under and very slightly flare the front guard to get rid of the factory 'crease' to make em look even. Bloody good job all the same, just how coupes should be done, looks fucking hot. Skin, bloody good job dude, welding does make for a neater guard if your picky.

seek
13th February 2008, 11:17 PM
sorry, but can someone quickly explain why there is so much talk on how strong your guards are, when its quiet clear that if you nudge something or hit it, it will still bend/break ?

SNAP
14th February 2008, 02:52 PM
peoples opinion on how they should be done? its all fine, everyone has their own way and none of them are wrong, metal can be eaisly moulded, fiberglass cracks n bog falls out!

Joel-AE86
14th February 2008, 04:42 PM
I did mine on my hachi entirely different.

1. I pulled the lip out from underneath.
2. Drilled out the spot welds.
3. Seperated the inner from the outer guard.
4. Cut away a portion of the inner guard.
5. Flared the outer guard.
6. Welded the inner back to the outer.
7. Added some extra metal and fiberglass for added rigidity.
8. Fiberglassed and bogged till the cows came home and shit was smooth
9. Painted
10. Enjoyed :)

They turned out good.

I like your idea though, but would want to weld back the cuts once flared.

marvis
14th February 2008, 06:15 PM
Any more pictures of other methods?

af300e
15th February 2008, 07:43 PM
Here is my preoject. I actually started these arches before I found this thread. I have used a hammer/dolly, no cuts, no drilling the welds. I cleaned the inside of the lip before I started and it will be seam sealed before the stone guard goes on.
1. Folded up the lip to the inner guard
2. Begin flaring the guard by gently heating(with gas) the inner guard and beating it out with the hammer/dolly. This gives much more tyre clearance.
3. Gently flare the outer guard using hammer/dolly and gas. Most important is to get the edge radius correct without any dings or undulations.
4. Skim of bog and 2k primer.

Todd
16th February 2008, 04:56 PM
mintah!

what 'gas' did u use?
I'm guessing u would be reffering to some type of gas powered heatgun but I'm not too sure what u mean.
cheers

af300e
17th February 2008, 12:51 AM
Yeah, just a mapp gas torch. Not oxy or anything that heavy. It only needs a light heat. Moreso for the inner guard than the outer.

blacktopspirit
24th February 2008, 09:10 PM
I used a Gaurd Roller on mine, works out pretty cheap if you buy a gaurd roller then sell or rent it out when you have finished.

Front right Standard
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/8/4/3/165156.jpg
Front right rolled without inner lip
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/8/4/3/165157.jpg
Front left rolled with inner lip
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/8/4/3/165158.jpg

Konakid
24th February 2008, 09:52 PM
^^Take the centre caps off the superlights, look waaaayyyy better.

Dish
22nd March 2008, 06:16 PM
Fucking noob question I know. But when doing front guards you actually pull the whole thing out and cut/trim off the plastic liner mounts to achieve your outside edge? I started doing one of mine dodgily by just pressing the inner lip to the main flare and hitting it all outwards.

Is the pulling out and cutting/trimming way the preffered for max clearance? Or is it how it's always done.

steroidchickens
22nd March 2008, 10:50 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Dish @ Mar 22 2008, 06:16 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=505969)</div>
Fucking noob question I know. But when doing front guards you actually pull the whole thing out and cut/trim off the plastic liner mounts to achieve your outside edge? I started doing one of mine dodgily by just pressing the inner lip to the main flare and hitting it all outwards.

Is the pulling out and cutting/trimming way the preffered for max clearance? Or is it how it's always done.[/b]


i did not pull and cut. would be to hard the get the edge looking nice. plus less reinforcement.

i folded that lip under then hammer and dollied that crease flat.

SNAP
25th March 2008, 10:50 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Dish @ Mar 22 2008, 06:16 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=505969)</div>
Fucking noob question I know. But when doing front guards you actually pull the whole thing out and cut/trim off the plastic liner mounts to achieve your outside edge? I started doing one of mine dodgily by just pressing the inner lip to the main flare and hitting it all outwards.

Is the pulling out and cutting/trimming way the preffered for max clearance? Or is it how it's always done.[/b]

just rack off the plastic liner! bend out the inner section with your shifter and do the rest as steroidchicken said, folding the lip gives extra strength and gets rid of the sharp edge! hammer n dolly is the way a a light skim of bog to make her perfect! more that 1 - 2mm is 2 much! spend time with the hammer n dolly and make it as perfect as u can

slydar
25th March 2008, 11:39 PM
i am trying really hard not to come across as high and mighty, but what youve done really isnt a good way to flair guards.

i only say this because the pictures really don't show enough detail. as in the end result.

its just a pretty big deal to cut on the car there, and not really get it right, rear 1/4s are not easily replaced if youre not happy with how it turns out.

would be good to see some oblique shots so people car really see how it looks on the edge. just don't want people to get led a stray. i will take some photos when i cut the other side of my guards open, so you can all see what is up inside there, so you know what youre dealing with.

70XIN
26th March 2008, 05:25 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (slydar @ Mar 25 2008, 10:39 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=507745)</div>
i am trying really hard not to come across as high and mighty, but what youve done really isnt a good way to flair guards.

i only say this because the pictures really don't show enough detail. as in the end result.

its just a pretty big deal to cut on the car there, and not really get it right, rear 1/4s are not easily replaced if youre not happy with how it turns out.

would be good to see some oblique shots so people car really see how it looks on the edge. just don't want people to get led a stray. i will take some photos when i cut the other side of my guards open, so you can all see what is up inside there, so you know what youre dealing with.[/b]

it looked good. i, of all people, hate to hear someone think they are the bomb etc *points at medwin*, but they turned out fairly damn good. with a day's more sanding/primer filler, there's no reason why they couldn't be "perfect"

BUT in saying that, as soon as the 'bogged' area has a large impact with anything (in our case, a hammer, trying to massage the inner guard more), you are up shit creek

soon after that article we cut out all the hard work and bolted on some origin flares, which look bloody good with bugger all effort, and still manage to fit rob's rather large wheels :)



conclusion: bolt on guards are easy, flaring is time consuming.

Roku_70
27th March 2008, 08:53 PM
thanks very much for being innovative and putting this thread up here. helps all of us figure out the best ways to do it. i think this is an easier way of doing it, whereas some people prefer to take the guard back to bare metal and then heat it in order for it to expand and so on... i have heard of using traditional lead crastmenship too?

mrmatt
27th March 2008, 10:26 PM
Ok its my turn. This is how we did mine. The old man did most of the work because he used to be a panel beater. hmmmm he will come in hand later down the track. Well here it goes.

This is it before work began
[attachment=24140:12052007_005_.jpg]
We started by bending out the guard and grinding all the crap off the guard
[attachment=24141:12052007_012_.jpg]
To get a good amount of flare without creasing the guard we had to cut the shit out of it then weld in pieces to strengthen it again.
[attachment=24142:12052007_014_.jpg]
Front guard before being attacked
[attachment=24143:12052007_015_.jpg]
Front guard after being attacked.
[attachment=24144:12052007_016_.jpg]
Rear guard before
[attachment=24145:13052007.jpg]
That is how they looked after the flaring. All we did here was stretch the metal out with a ball pien hammer. Note that we didn't have to cut anything in the rear but one of the guards did split on the inside so strip of metal was welded in
[attachment=24146:13052007_002_.jpg]
Smoothing up the rear guards
[attachment=24150:13052007_003_.jpg]
All primed and ready for paint
[attachment=24152:18052007.jpg]
Painted black before colour
[attachment=24158:19052007_001_.jpg]
Finished Product
[attachment=24156:hachi_backside.jpg]
[attachment=24157:hachi_frontside.jpg]

johl
28th March 2008, 09:14 AM
dam that looks so nice. great work

Todd
28th March 2008, 03:10 PM
and the fitment front and rear looks very good.

i guess that might shutup the people who were saying that cutting the guards is a bad way to go about flaring guards?

mrmatt
28th March 2008, 06:43 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (todd @ Mar 28 2008, 02:10 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=509263)</div>
i guess that might shutup the people who were saying that cutting the guards is a bad way to go about flaring guards?[/b]

I hope so..
Its not a bad way to flare your guards as long as you WELD pieces over the cuts to strengthen it again. None of this fiberglass patch up shit. If your gonna do it then spend the extra time and do it right.

SNAP
29th March 2008, 02:39 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (todd @ Mar 28 2008, 03:10 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=509263)</div>
and the fitment front and rear looks very good.

i guess that might shutup the people who were saying that cutting the guards is a bad way to go about flaring guards?[/b]


i guess that there is only one way to do everything hay todd, this thread is not a how 2 but a thread to give people undertaking this mod to get some ideas and go about it their own way. there is no right and wrong and if u think cutting the guards is the gospel way to do it then go ahead. yeah the job above looks awsome, but his dad was a panel beater, or did u forget that. he pretty much has a professional job i think u could say. like i said i did my fronts without warping the guard and not deforming it and i haven cut a thing, other pple have had the sam success, pple have also had success cutting and welding. if u want to cut em go for it. but don't come on her and slam down other ppls successful methods!

& MrMatt your old man has done a great job! good stuff

ae71
29th March 2008, 03:40 PM
i have seen cut and welded rear guards crack the weld.

on my ke i had rust in the rear quarters so it had to be cut and a new piece welded in, so while this was being down they where flared with pliers, hammer and dolly. how ever i would have still flared with this method if the guards didn't have any rust. ultimately if you don't need to move them a long way then cutting isnt nessesary but if you need to clear big wheels then this may be the only option other than bolt-ons or wide body panels.

agreed on the top job above.

Todd
29th March 2008, 04:13 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (SNAP @ Mar 29 2008, 12:39 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=509750)</div>
i guess that there is only one way to do everything hay todd, this thread is not a how 2 but a thread to give people undertaking this mod to get some ideas and go about it their own way. there is no right and wrong and if u think cutting the guards is the gospel way to do it then go ahead. yeah the job above looks awsome, but his dad was a panel beater, or did u forget that. he pretty much has a professional job i think u could say. like i said i did my fronts without warping the guard and not deforming it and i haven cut a thing, other pple have had the sam success, pple have also had success cutting and welding. if u want to cut em go for it. but don't come on her and slam down other ppls successful methods!

& MrMatt your old man has done a great job! good stuff[/b]


haha mate pipe down, if u bothered to read the whole thread i comment on other techniques that give sweet results, its just there was a fuss made about how 'wrong and bad' it was to cut guards. the reason for my comment was because his dad is a professional panel beater and cutting the guards was the way a PROFESSIONAL went about flaring his sons guards, which means it must be a good way of doing so.

in the near future i will be flaring my own guards and i WILL NOT be cutting guards purely because i don't own a welder nor the skills, and for this reason i will be doing it a different way to that shown above.

so leave the crap out of this thread as u obviously did not understand what i was saying.

SNAP
29th March 2008, 11:39 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (todd @ Mar 28 2008, 03:10 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=509263)</div>
and the fitment front and rear looks very good.

i guess that might shutup the people who were saying that cutting the guards is a bad way to go about flaring guards?[/b]


comments like the one u made cause arguments mate., its not really hard to understand what u said, it was only a sentence. Pretty basic i think.
I thought it was a strange comment because i thought this thread was giving everyone ideas on how to go about flaring their guards, so people could use them to go about which ever method they chose.
so i went back and read from page 1 -3 and yep.. no slagging of anyones ideas or imput. so there is no one so far that needs to be "shut up". But u may have perceived people telling everyone how good their own results were as saying "cutting is a bad way to go" but not even that was said....

positive input is good input and thats where it should stay.
so the positive for you would be if u can help out go for it but thread cluttering comments arn't really needed

I'm not even angry... hmm

balistic
5th May 2008, 01:37 PM
Did mine without cutting, just using hammer, dolly and a welder:

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/8/4/3/169397.jpg

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/8/4/3/169398.jpg

I then folded a small lip back under around the edge for strength, welded the inner guard back onto the outer skin and sealed it up with sikaflex to stop dirt/water/dust from getting in, a very little amount of bog and spray putty to smooth them over, they come up perfect + nice and solid. Will try and find some more pics of it after primer.