Tamiya TT-01

[slydar]

im pretty certain im going to buy one. that or maybe a TA-05

basically i just want to build a tamiya kit for the fun of it.

i looked into it before, but seemed at the time you could only buy the TT-01, XB, pre built. but theres kits on ebay for like $120. (obviously i know you need to buy the transmitter, esc, body, battery and charger)

if anyone here has one, feel free to comment.

i think i just wanna use it very occasionally. probably set it up for drift. hop it up a bit. it doesnt have to be stupidly fast. just fun and fun to build. and tough.

i wouldnt spend the extra on a TA-05 if theres a reason too, but for me i dont see one?

[70XIN]

TA05 has a few small suspension design differences, and the ABILITY to be a fair bit faster around a track, but .. to 99% of people are just wasting their money.

TT01 for sure, i thrashed one endlessly after my first (TL01) met its fate, from then onwards i felt other cars i 'upgraded to' weren't giving good enough gains for $$, its an awesome little chassis

[shichi~]

buy mine $300 its a d1 street legal s15 with everything cost me like 600 all up hours of fun let me no :D ill even throw in the pipe u use to fit over the rims to slide :D

[slydar]

it seems like i could build one new for $400?

but anyway building it and opening the packets and smelling the fresh plastic etc is most of the reason i am getting one, so ill pass :)

[shichi~]

ahah all sweet man it also depends on wat u buy just make sure u lock ur rear diff (bluetak) and go for a slide

[Anthony]

lol, was thinking silicone maybe. blutac works OK but? I bought one second hand but it def tends too far to the under.

[ae86hachiroku]

I have the same D1 S15 TT-01... Been using it occasionally for a year, no hassles it seems, has had quite a few smacks and jumps, all good.

[slydar]

yeah, im just trying to decide which kit to get. i can get a kit locally for $120. full roller.

or ex' HK for $130 posted but no wheels. but is the newer version TT01E. i just wanna make sure most of the hop ups still work on it.

[driftke70]

but anyway building it and opening the packets and smelling the fresh plastic etc is most of the reason i am getting one, so ill pass :)

haha so true

[slydar]

http://sw-bal.sakura.ne.jp/PAL/ALUBUM/20070805_86Festival/86Festival_2nd.html

[Robo86]

i smell battles!!111!!!!!!1!1! !!11

i need to work out how to make my shitlowdown as fuck.

i just have this cheapie ebay one but its awesome

EDIT holy SHIT at fuel station and epic poke on some of them d!

[slydar]

yeah. i dont think theyre tt01. some might be. but yeah you can get that look i think easy enough, speedway pal sell wheels in upto -10mm offset. and you can get these spacer hub things as well.

[Robo86]

i have xr4s i just need spacers

[ae86hachiroku]

Mine scrapes guards...

Lights are smashed, front bumper smashed, rear quarter panel dented, wing chipped from wall scraping... I'll post a video hahahaha

[kaibeecee]

man. i raced national level 1/10th RC when i was younger but got out of it to race karts. but that link dimitri posted kinda makes me want one again...

this:
http://sw-bal.sakura.ne.jp/PAL/ALUBUM/20070805_86Festival/3P8K0377_38.jpg
and this:
http://sw-bal.sakura.ne.jp/PAL/ALUBUM/20070805_86Festival/3P8K0222_19.jpg

i'd assume you'd be able to lower them by raising the shock tower mounting points? that'd seem the easiest way maybe. but i havent seen much of the newer tamiya chassis'...

[Robo86]

haha 2nd one is balls out! i love it

[Matt-AE86]

If anyone ever wants to get some good R/C Drift happening in Perth just ask Ken. His ebisu track kicks ass.. My RX7 shell had a few fatal roll overs there. :D

[Matt-AE86]

This is my RX7.

[pen15]

im not a very big fan of tamiya my rc drifter is a cen ct5 with a little money spent on it but those hatchis above are sick where did you get those wheels and what brand are they hpi or something im keen as mustard for 1

[shichi~]

lol to lower em u just fit the shell lower as theres a few mounting holes im gunna get mine out was fuck when u makea track!

[shichi~]

charging :D lucky i got lights for a night session :)

[focus_7]

im not a very big fan of tamiya my rc drifter is a cen ct5 with a little money spent on it but those hatchis above are sick where did you get those wheels and what brand are they hpi or something im keen as mustard for 1

Do you drift it up at the competition days at menai dude?

[driftnick13]

sold my RC drifter awhile ago, miss doing twin drifts with my brother:P had a JZX100 body with dished work rims, loved doing some wall scraping in my backyard:P

[pen15]

Do you drift it up at the competition days at menai dude?

at menai isn't that for batter only i run nitro i usually just drift them with m8ts i wouldn't mine getting a nicely setup electric 1 tough like those hatchis

[focus_7]

I'm not sure what they run, I havn't been there. I know beau yates goes up there and drifts his.

[crazy nanna]

Hey D. I've had my tt01 for years and love thrashing it(which it cops haha) if you go the tt01d(d=drift) kit you get a real good base kit for sliding and hop ups make it better again. As for body shapes you can buy heaps of different ones and just interchange them to suit you mood on the day...fun painting up the shells to.lol

I recommend getting at least 2 batteries( I run 3000'S) as 1 battery just doesn't seem to give long enough playtime.lol
With locking your diffs use either rolled up balls of chux cloth(pack theses in tight) or pack silly putty into the 3 planetry gears in the diff.Using either of these allow a tiny amount of shock absorbing qualities in the diff which make for smoother easier to control transitions.
Bluetak is good to begin with but becomes soft & gooey with the heat after a bit of use which means you lose your locker diff.
If you lock your rear diff only(which I run &prefer) it makes the transions snappy and prone to spins but you just have to patiently adjust your suspension settings until you find that happy balance
if you lock both front & back it makes for a bit easier control in transitions and such but I found it was not as good for smaller, tighter controlling courses as the rear only with suspension balance....it really is a case of trying out till you find your happy setup.

Different types of drift tyre work different on different surfaces also


Check out this site (Brizdrift)as its Brissie based and very useful. They also hold Thursday night slides at Cannon Hill netball courts

http://www.brizdrift.org/

looks like we may have to have a Kaizen Garage drift series hey Ant!?haha

I know some good spots off track too(almost streeting.hahaha) so we'll all have to catch up soon

[driftke70]

be cool to make a roc style race with overlapping bridge and shit.

[slydar]

Hey D. I've had my tt01 for years and love thrashing it(which it cops haha) if you go the tt01d(d=drift) kit you get a real good base kit for sliding and hop ups make it better again. As for body shapes you can buy heaps of different ones and just interchange them to suit you mood on the day...fun painting up the shells to.lol

I recommend getting at least 2 batteries( I run 3000'S) as 1 battery just doesn't seem to give long enough playtime.lol
With locking your diffs use either rolled up balls of chux cloth(pack theses in tight) or pack silly putty into the 3 planetry gears in the diff.Using either of these allow a tiny amount of shock absorbing qualities in the diff which make for smoother easier to control transitions.
Bluetak is good to begin with but becomes soft & gooey with the heat after a bit of use which means you lose your locker diff.
If you lock your rear diff only(which I run &prefer) it makes the transions snappy and prone to spins but you just have to patiently adjust your suspension settings until you find that happy balance
if you lock both front & back it makes for a bit easier control in transitions and such but I found it was not as good for smaller, tighter controlling courses as the rear only with suspension balance....it really is a case of trying out till you find your happy setup.

Different types of drift tyre work different on different surfaces also


Check out this site (Brizdrift)as its Brissie based and very useful. They also hold Thursday night slides at Cannon Hill netball courts

http://www.brizdrift.org/

looks like we may have to have a Kaizen Garage drift series hey Ant!?haha

I know some good spots off track too(almost streeting.hahaha) so we'll all have to catch up soon

awesome man thanks for the pointers.

i actually signed up for briz drift the other day, account just activated.

and yeah TT01 will do for now for sure. not 100% sure im going to totally get into it. if i do.. ill upgrade, and by then ill know exactly what i want :)

[slydar]

im ordering my chassis tomorrow + ally prop and bearings from a HK ebay store i think, pending a few calls to some local shops.

speedway pal wheels and probabaly a yokomo hachi shell from an aussie place http://www.genkidoridori.com/

going to have a longer think about motor/esc/radio combo.

[crazy nanna]

Your gunna have a ball mate!
I just bought mine for fun to start but the mod bug works on all size cars.hahahaha

ally prop is probaly the first & best upgrade(sorry I didn't mention it in the first post) as the plastic has way more give/play then the ally. also ally gives better response too.

[slydar]

yeah think im just about 100% certain im gonna get the tt01r now.

come with bearings and an ally prop stock, plus a slight faster, and lots cooler looking motor). can land it with a radio, battery, charger, and esc for like $300.

probably grab a throw away 18t yeah racing motor too as theyre only a couple of bux.

came across the TB03D though... seems cool.. but its just a bit too much coin all up. kits only an extra 40usd but with bearings and a motor (which it doesnt come with) it ends up being a fair bit more.

ill see how this week pans out. if i make a few bux ill have another think about the TB.

[slydar]

TT01R ordered.

[slydar]

check this shizz

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/1/8/15370.jpg

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/1/8/15371.jpg

the trueno has working flip lights and an exhaust that smokes. LOL. awesome.

[(OO)SKYLINE(OO)]

im pretty certain im going to buy one. that or maybe a TA-05

basically i just want to build a tamiya kit for the fun of it.

i looked into it before, but seemed at the time you could only buy the TT-01, XB, pre built. but theres kits on ebay for like $120. (obviously i know you need to buy the transmitter, esc, body, battery and charger)

if anyone here has one, feel free to comment.

i think i just wanna use it very occasionally. probably set it up for drift. hop it up a bit. it doesnt have to be stupidly fast. just fun and fun to build. and tough.

i wouldnt spend the extra on a TA-05 if theres a reason too, but for me i dont see one?
I have a Tamiya TT-01 Drift Spec RC Car.

It's the Expert Built (XB) pre built kit so basically charge up and load it up the batteries and off you go.

I bought the XB Nissan Silvia S15 kit with the Nismo Coppermix Body Shell.

The TT-01 kit is great for beginners and is fast enough to practice with to get use to the speed and get your drifts going.

I have 3 interchangeable body shells, a Wide body Silvia S15, Datsun 240Z and a Mazda RX7 FD (Yet to be painted).

Here are some pics of my S15 and 240Z.
4014
4015
4017
4016
4019
4021
4018
4020

[slydar]

mines all built up now :)

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/1/8/16170.jpg

at first wasnt too great but after setting the toe and rear camber up better and repositioning the rear shox for an effectively softer set up its transformed. slides really well and getting to be able to control it quite well.

ended up with a HPI levin shell (same as the hot ones above)
HPI work miesters.
3 racing bearing steering kit with turnbuckles.

gonna drop into OZRC tomorrow and see if i can walk out of there with a 21t motor and metal motor mount.

[driftke70]

you should make a full scale twin, you already want part of whats there

[slydar]

im too old and scared to paint a real car pink any more. plus i dont think jason would be too impressed. (bloke who im buying my new 86 off).

not that i wouldnt want to/think pink is a cool colour.

[Kid Karola]

That reminds me! I have a Tamiya TA03R-TRF built it a few years ago but never had time to race it! Shell is still unpainted :P also have another older Tamiya CF chassis and Sil80 with offset and stretch :D ...

This is the ABC Sil80 body shell on the older Tamiya CFRP chassis -TA01 if I recall correctly it was a Manta Ray originally :jdmsmile:

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/1/1/1/9/16557.jpg

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/1/1/1/9/16558.jpg

The ABC Trueno body is on the same style of chassis, just ali and junk spare parts.
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/1/1/1/9/16559.jpg

Close up of stretch (these tyres are wak have really stiff side walls so the contact patch is concave!)
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/1/1/1/9/16560.jpg
*these are actually reversed for more neg offset. Rear wheels not so common now which are 32mm wide.

Better demo of stretch of a 26mm tyre on 32mm rim compared to normal 26mm rim (Tamiya type A/B slicks)
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/1/1/1/9/16561.jpg

[slydar]

yeah the ta03 is an interesting kit :) theres an F at whats becoming my "local" hobby store, still in the box. you can actually still easily buy ta03rs and the FRP chassis kit as well. also all the parts to convert an R to F or still available through various ebay vendors. i was kinda tempted to do one but its too much coin really..

im pretty happy with the TT except for the slop in the front end. im gonna try some GPM knuckles and derlin ball joints. but i think that will be the last hop up for the TT.. pretty keen on a TB03D now. theyre cheap and dont really need anything changing, and have the "proper" C hub style suspension of the trf's/ta05 etc.

[aussierider]

tt-01s seem like a good basher chassis I was looking at buying one with a hpi shell and getting the extra run free kit thats now avalable, but i'm starting to swing towards one of the new hpi cup racer kits, they look awesome, just waiting for spare parts to become more avaible.

I've got a tao3f with frp chassis with frewer s13 shell sitting here in bits that i was tihnking about getting running but sourcing parts seems like to much effort when its old and the new chassis out would run rings around them.

Does anyone with a tt-01 run a front one way front diff? I was wondering if you could some how install it backwards so it free wheels under power but works under brakes, so you could end up with rwd but still have 4 wheel brakes?

[slydar]

im gonna get a 1 way main shaft. seems the way to go as then you still much around with your front diff tuning as well.

i dont think you could flip the front diff center, but you could probably flip the dirve shaft which would reverse its action.

[Kid Karola]

Yeah my TRF's got lightweight ali driveshafts, struts and hubs, low friction shocks, all sealed BB and the CF chassis is sweet. belt driven (unlike my older ali shaft drive) took pics of both so just need to upload them onto photobucket.

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/1/1/1/9/16710.jpg

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/1/1/1/9/16711.jpg

oh the motor is a Trinity D4 Copper Head (10T Triple winding) it came with a little dyno graph 1.5kW lol

[slydar]

yeah post em up!

[Kid Karola]

Hey I saw on that link you sent me to genki doridori (www.genkidoridori.com) has the raddest rims!
SSR Mesh, Mk II's and Watanabe's among others! Sakura's sicker than aids yo!
http://www.genkidoridori.com/images/PA091-SG.pnghttp://www.genkidoridori.com/images/PA091-SB.png
http://www.genkidoridori.com/images/watanabe_s.pnghttp://www.genkidoridori.com/images/watanabe2.pnghttp://www.genkidoridori.com/images/RS003.jpghttp://www.genkidoridori.com/images/team_yayoi.png

Little TE37's have much win! as do the Enkei NT03. The rims on my Sil80 Tamiya 2-Piece Mesh Wheels #SP549 (52x32mm adjustable offset)
http://www.genkidoridori.com/images/37R_MB.jpghttp://www.genkidoridori.com/images/TW-3013.jpghttp://www.genkidoridori.com/images/SP548.jpg

[slydar]

yeah quite awesome really. i was gonna get mesh for the 86 but it was kinda impossible to work out the offset before i actually got my kit and then put the body on as it doesnt really seem there's that type of info on the net.

to get it millimeter perfect, which is kinda important on an rc car as a mil is a lot, i think you need to put the actual body on the chassis youre gonna run, then take it for a run and get your camber settings right. and then order your wheels.

but yeah if you get it spot on its pretty cool cos it doubles as a cool static model as well :)

[slydar]

ahh you edited those posts with pics. both of those are very cool.

[*urban_ninja*]

this is my TT01 with shells a sil80 and some un knowan nissan, stock with locked rear diff and toe and camber kit, also got drift tyres but just got my stretched out set on it atm as it looks way better hahahahahahahah.

last pick with skidders on

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/6/4/4/16796.jpg

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/6/4/4/16798.jpg

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/6/4/4/16800.jpg

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/6/4/4/16802.jpg

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/6/4/4/16804.jpg

http://http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/6/4/4/16807.jpg

[Zach]

These thing are awesome

[*urban_ninja*]

it is eays as aids to stretck tyres just get wheels you like with a tyre thats to small for it my rears are off my old Hornet used 2 tyres to do it on in side to give it the propper shape and one stretched from one lip to the other of the rim. use a screwdriver makes it so much easiear

[Kid Karola]

yeah quite awesome really. i was gonna get mesh for the 86 but it was kinda impossible to work out the offset before i actually got my kit and then put the body on as it doesnt really seem there's that type of info on the net.

to get it millimeter perfect, which is kinda important on an rc car as a mil is a lot, i think you need to put the actual body on the chassis youre gonna run, then take it for a run and get your camber settings right. and then order your wheels.

but yeah if you get it spot on its pretty cool cos it doubles as a cool static model as well :)

Seems that RC offset + is really negative :S

http://www.modellbau-seidel.de/scripts/picture.php?firm=Tamiya&best=50548&num=02&id=0609130308190642

This is like the narrow version of the 2-piece Tamiya mesh
http://www.modellbau-seidel.de/scripts/picture.php?firm=Tamiya&best=50548&num=01&id=0609130308190641

http://www.modellbau-seidel.de/scripts/picture.php?firm=Tamiya&best=50548&id=0609291007114833

[Zach]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1HzSX5-GkDM&feature=player_embedded

Enjoy!

[Kid Karola]

haha the chicks LOVE IT!!! ;)

[Matt-AE86]

I locked my diff on the weekend with chopped up bits of toilet silicon joiner. Yes, I am hardcore.

I was advised to use bluetack (which i know doesn't last very long) or rubber orings. I didn't have either so I thought I would givepacking it with chopped up bits of soft silicon joiner. It's worked fairly well, but I think I stuffed it by trying to see if it was locked by holding one wheel and turning the other. I wanted to munch the bits in lol.

[slydar]

mine is just filled to the brim with silicon.

[Kid Karola]

Epic Tamiya Hi-Lux Video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=My1ikIT3BXM)

This takes me back!!! I had the full 1 hour VHS with all the classic cars Super-Shot, Hot-Shot, Hornet, Frog, Fox Wild Willy etc when I was about 12 :P when it arrived me and my mate watched it like 20 times back to back :P we could resight the whole dialogue verbatum!

The Fox - "hows that for a smooth jump?" (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I78xyVj4G0Q)

The Frog - No Guts! No Glory! (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oKucL2cAWdA)

The Hornet - Anytime baby! (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kkZf0dBwHTM)

The SuperShot - Top of the line (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eLgCHBiAPbg&feature=related)

The Hot Shot - "keep in mind that all these scenes were shot in slow motion" (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pAZj-_64Jes)

Vanessa's Lunch Box lol (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ooRFAXHHr4)

Pajero - Violent stunting activity (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cyOV-c9vcWs&feature=related)

Rough Rider and Sand Scorcher (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-xPr6voO-F4)

Wild Willy 2 (reissue) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7wq3dPYTICI)

4WD Mini Fighter (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hQ9vtvzn260)

[MeZ Prod]

Ahh I spent way too much money on Drifting Rcs

Had various chassis but my favourite was the Twin Motor TA-03
Heres some pics of the various shells i created.

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/8/2/8/17614.jpg

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/8/2/8/17615.jpg

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/8/2/8/17616.jpg

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/8/2/8/17617.jpg

http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/4678/dscf1085fy5.jpg

http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/9499/dscf1107jx3.jpg

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/8/2/8/17620.jpg

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/8/2/8/17621.jpg

http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/1429/chaseher2og7.jpg

[slydar]

those are all pretty nice.

is the mini an M chassis? whats the short wheel base like to drift with if so?

i actually just bought a TA01 on the weekend and have an FRP chassis set on the way for it.

[MeZ Prod]

Yeh its a ABC Genetic, I found it fun to drift, could put it anywhere! haha

[hilux05]

dimitri. where do you take yours to thrash, on the coast or in bris?? if its on the coast give us a yell sometime an ill get me piece of yoko-hoe goin again, gets prety boring driftin' by myself..

[slydar]

hey man, yeah mostly bris. i will try to hit you up though when i have it up here.

im with you though as far as it getting boring by yourself.

and so -

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/1/8/17976.jpg

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/1/8/17977.jpg

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/1/8/17978.jpg

my new TA01 :)

[Kid Karola]

"BACK IN BLACK!!! Da dada da, Dada da...

[slydar]

progress

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/1/8/18418.jpg

[Kid Karola]

hey so you remember that bloke (Mike Villena) that scratch built the 4AGE with moving parts like crank, rods, pistons, valves etc?
He also fully detailed an RC MX5 and Mini... well children avert your eyes! RC Trueno project (http://www.scale4x4rc.org/forums/showthread.php?t=23630) :omg:

[Gunner]

thats insane

[Kid Karola]

Here's some more but not quite as detailed ;)

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/1/1/1/9/22459.jpg

AE86 appreciation thread. To the best drift cars ever, even at 1:10 scale!!! (http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4355466)

[Gunner]

http://www.rctech.net/forum/australia-sale-trade/317697-2-x-tt-01s-sale.html

thought that may interest some of you

[slydar]

old mate is right. thats actually pretty exxy. ive seen them new for as little as around $70 posted.

[Gunner]

i dunno im a nitro boy, just thought someone might want it

[Nic19]

where do you guys buy all your rims and shells from? i have a TT01d with a few mods. got a 4.5T brushless motor for some fun with grip wheels aswell. just need to find where to get good shells to build.

[willa]

Im stuck weighing up between Tamiya TT-01D, HPI Sprint 2 Drift, or a Colt of some sort...

Anybody able to point me in the right direction on which to choose and where to buy?

Cheers Will

[Gunner]

Hey Slider where do you get your wheels from? I'm putting together a couple old tg10 mk1s, and I need wheels.

[slydar]

the works are hpi, so you can get them anywhere, but oz-rc is where they came from, they have an ebay store. the wata's came from www.genkidoridori.com.

[slydar]

Im stuck weighing up between Tamiya TT-01D, HPI Sprint 2 Drift, or a Colt of some sort...

Anybody able to point me in the right direction on which to choose and where to buy?

Cheers Will

how much do you plan to spend?

i found the tt01 is a pretty good car. im running a different chassis but it wasnt really the performance being the reason for the switch.

the only thing i didnt like was the slop. but it still slides really well even though the front end is quite loose.

i dont know HEAPS about the other 2. for me i was only wanting tamiya and thats still the case.

knowing what i know now though. i would have bought an early ta05. from hong kong theyre really not much more exxy than what a tt01 cost once it set up at all.

[Gunner]

and a worked ta05 sells for a good amount of $$$$ when you decide its time to move on

But dont sell your tamiya stuff guys, will be worth quite a bit in a few years.

I've started putting together all my old tamiya stuff, from an old baja champ, a couplesuperhornets, and the tg10s, and one day they will be worth quire a bit, like in j land, a mint tg10 mk1 sell for over $400, thats what they cost new 10 yrs ago.

[Gunner]

oh and thanks for the link slydar.

[Nic19]

yeh is there anyway to get rid of the slop of the tt-01 my mate has 2 schumacer mi2's and they handle SOOOOO good. im also thinking about getting the 3racing chassis kit and alloy steering, do u think that would work

[shichi~]

i found a RC track 20mins from me gunna go out there 4 a slide soon :D

[slydar]

yeh is there anyway to get rid of the slop of the tt-01 my mate has 2 schumacer mi2's and they handle SOOOOO good. im also thinking about getting the 3racing chassis kit and alloy steering, do u think that would work

not really.

GPM make alu' sus' arms that have a "clamp" around the upper and lower ball joint. they also sell brass balls. thatd probably work ok.

another option is to fit front suspension from another model. if you use a rear lower arm on the front you can then fit TA01/2 c hubs and kuckles. but its alot of messing really. and even if you only spend $50/$100 on parts. you still have the other TT01 shortcomings to deal with.

when you can land a TA05 or TB03 for like $200, which doesnt need any hopping up at all, to be better than a hopped up TT..

[Nic19]

hey slydar i can get a tb02 complete car for $20 is it worth getting it to use the steering? what do you actually change? is it just the knuckles of the whole front? otherwise i may get a ta05 later on and deal with the tt01 slop, i find it fine to drift with but with a 4.5T motor trying to drift it fast with grip tyres is harder

[slydar]

its worth getting for $20 for sure. but its TA01/2 that will sort of work.

tb02 is a latter chassis though, with a later style suspension. the outer pivot on the lower arm is further outboard with the c hub sort of sitting "inside" the lower arm instead of on the end of it. TB02 is basically the same as all the current stuff as far as suspension. but a bit different to early TA and so wont work with the set up i described.

with what youre trying to do, id say youre definately better off waiting and getting a TA05. from rcmart youd land one for about $200. with that sort of speed (4.5BL) you want the best suspension and the best balance you can. TA05 is really the best drift chassis you can get short of maybe a HPI pro d or maybe alex racing's drift chassis, or some other obscure chassis converted type set up. TA05s have the have the furthermost forward engine position of any stock chassis. bang on 50/50 weight distribution is what you want.

id be interested in the TB02 though if youre not. let me know about that. just for something to mess around with.

[Low Style]

i got me one of those s15 pre-built drift ones (Silver S15)

works well straight out of the box but over time im going to upgrade parts here and there.

[kebabs]

Yokomo is where its at :yeah:

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/3/5/5/4/24075.jpg

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/3/5/5/4/24076.jpg

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/3/5/5/4/24077.jpg

[slydar]

yeah, tamiya built that chassis like 15 years ago :)

TB EVO

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/1/8/24279.jpg

i want one but theyre pretty hard to buy NIB.

considering building this instead. TB01 with carbon chassis kit and a bunch of hop ups.

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/1/8/24280.jpg

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/1/8/24281.jpg

mine would have the LA sus' though instead of the TG10 alu' parts. which suspension wise would make it basically up to the minute (TA05 spec pretty much)

but im still weighing up costs. to build the carbon'd TB01 i could just about spend the same and just get a TB EVO 5 MS. which as far as im concerned is the best chassis there is (for me).

[slydar]

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/1/8/547613.jpg

this is the EV0 5 MS. lots of improvements over the normal evo. mostly the rear bulkhead/engine position.

[driftke70]

swoosh straight over my head

[Gunner]

http://www.tamiya-shop.com.au/shop/

any one bought stuff from there?

[Nic19]

how much would a 2nd hand tt-01D be worth minus electrics? im thinking of upgrading to somehting like a ta-05. mainly used for drifting and some grip

the tt-01 has a few minor hop ups like alu prop shaft, 3 racing front and rear suspenions arms and dunno what else lol

[*urban_ninja*]

i got the tto1 all i did was new engin lockrear diff and compressed the suspension and got rid or reverse so it's a brake instead. works grate i just used a big zip tie to compress the springs worked a treat and made it solid as fuck.

[slydar]

how much would a 2nd hand tt-01D be worth minus electrics? im thinking of upgrading to somehting like a ta-05. mainly used for drifting and some grip

the tt-01 has a few minor hop ups like alu prop shaft, 3 racing front and rear suspenions arms and dunno what else lol


about $100.

[Kid Karola]

saw these Hoshino G5's FTW!

http://blog-imgs-21.fc2.com/h/i/r/hiroqkoubou/impul1_20080415180925.jpg
link (http://hiroqkoubou.blog19.fc2.com/blog-entry-2.html)

[slydar]

just ordered a TB03D and a HPI IS200 shell.

[Gunner]

are you becoming obsessed slydar, watch it dude, it takes over your life lol.

[Gunner]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zlWkmmW7sF8


Check this dudes skills, I know you guys aren't into offroad nitro, but fuck me benjamin this guy is sick.

[slydar]

i dont think so. to tell you the truth, i actually lost about $250 on the weekend.. and so my reaction to that was like "fuck, i could have bought another rc car for that, fuck it i will".

i went out to the indoor track on the north side, and liked the look of it. whilst the old school TA is fun to drive, with the TB i think i can hang for sure. they have comps and stuff, looks like fun.

[slydar]

and yeah that offroad is pretty amazing. its like bmx trail riding how he lands it like nose first perfectly on the down ramps.

[Gunner]

Racing is good fun man, I raced offroad or a few years, loved every minute of it. Have you looked at any o the mugens, sepent cars for onroad racing?

[slydar]

if i were to ever race im pretty sure i only wanna race EP touring cars in a stock/23 turn class. which the TB could work fine with also.

mugen/serpent are more 1/8th gas? other scales/off road do slightly interest me/seem fun, but i think thats the best class for fun/keeping cost down and since i'd already have a chassis to do it..

regardless im not really interested in any other brand except Tamiya. if i were to get into racing seriously, i would consider other brand. but i cant see that happening ever.

[willa]

where do you get your gear from slydar?

[slydar]

www.rcmart.com and oz rc.

[Gunner]

nah there is mugen ep cars, and serpent only really do ep

found this on rc tech

http://www.rctech.net/forum/australia-sale-trade/330421-trf415msx-sale.html

[slydar]

yeah, but like i said. just not interested in other brands, and they dont seem any cheaper either?

trf414/415/416's are great. but they're not any better than a TA05 for anything id wanna do. the motor is a fair bit further back being a race chassis designed for mod class.

if i were to race a car itd be in a stock motor class for sure. like 540 or 23t. but to be honest ive never even run any of my cars on anything but drift tires.

i did go out to a drift night on thursday though that was a lot of fun. need a few more batteries though.

[willa]

been looking around at possible setups, damn some of this shit aint cheap when you have to start from scratch!
A TA-... or TB-... setup for just the chassis and shell is ok, but once i add on everything to get it to a drivable state it blows out of proportion lol...

Any tips or pointers on choosing shit? Like 2 ch gear will suffice instead of 4? I know you get what you pay for, so is there any cheap stuff that is a pointless purchase?

I just re-read my post and im thinking it makes sense... sorta

cheers

[slydar]

TA or TB is the way to go. skip the TT for sure...

if you can get one with a body you like then thats a bonus. have a look around for a non version 2/non IFS TA05. there are some cheap ones on ebay (120ish usd + post)

if youre really trying to save money, maybe even consider a TB02. those are around for 100 usd.. cheaper than some TT01s and fully upgradeable to TB EVO 3 spec quite easily.

as for radio. 2ch AM 27 is fine. you can get them from broken up kits from a few hobby stores for like $50 (aussie).

vapex is apparently a decent brand for ebay NIMH batteries.

a tamiya TEU101bk will run down to a 19t motor(only reccomended for 23t+ but very common to see ppl running 19t's, ive done it), this seems to be a decent point at which NIMH batteries still seem to "work" well.

thats pretty much it. i wouldnt really suggest spending any more or any less than that to begin with as theres not really any way of telling whether or not youll really get into it. if you do, well you wont mind spending money twice anyway :)

[willa]

cheers slydar ill keep at it and hopefully have something soon :thumbup:

[ke70astro]

ill post some videos an pictures of my friend an i street drifting our tt01's

[slydar]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rjw0xeMDHsg&feature=channel_page

[ke70astro]

anyone know where i can get some good shells online?
not common s15s an so on?
like a nice shaped notchback etc?

[slydar]

genkidoridori.com

[RRX-007]

readin this makes me want to get back into my rc drift car. i got a tt-o1 aswell. good fun.
i bought a like 1/18th rc drift car. cost me 80 bucks or something from ebay is pretty sick, :)

[driftke70]

when my cars finished ill probably try and build a little replica drift rc, something around 500 bucks along the lines of what your saying slydar, just something to fang around twice a month, keep the reflexes going.

[slydar]

yeah. ive never seen a X7 aye. its one shell they need to do.

[driftke70]

ill spend a bit of time trying to find some little model thing that could fit with a few mods, if i cant ill just get a notch back and do a bit of work to make it look like my keto. Like i have sprinter bars and duck tail and stuff, if i just make it the same colour and stickers and make it look like it has twin lights then it wont look too far off.

[Kid Karola]

easy to make a KE RC shell out of old shoe box :DD
Check out ABC Hobby (http://www.abchobby.com/) they do some mad body shells like TE27 Corolla, Celica GT, Datsun 510, Sunny ute, Hakosuka Skyline, RX3 to name a few.

[marvis]

Moved to the new forum for you guys :)

[cicca_294]

im just about to buy a tt01d with the silvia shell,
wat offset would you recommend running on a new set of rims?
sit nicely and to fill the guards a little better.
cheer :)

[AE092]

Let me do some digging around...

http://i49.tinypic.com/2pzd5ie.jpg
That's a TL01 chassis but same width as the TT01. WRX body is the same width as well. The offset is +10mm so it'll stick out by a fair bit. To get it to sit flush I'd go with a +6mm offset.

P.S R/C offset's aren't like cars. It's the other way 'round, the lower the higher the offset.

[15LIDE]

i have a nice pink set with good offset hahaha

[shichi~]

shit RC wheels have got better mite get mine out and go for a slide

ps that Rc street track! so much win

[Nic19]

so a 3mm offset will have more dish than a 6mm offset wheel?

[shift_rook]

no 6mm will have more

[lolwat]

anyone wonts a Yokomo Belt drive(MR-4TC BD MASAMI SPECIAL)
http://www.yokomousa.com/

or a LCG Drive shaft Yokomo
let me know

[AE092]

so a 3mm offset will have more dish than a 6mm offset wheel?

Nah 6mm offset is more. I.E it'll have more dish than 3mm.

[Nic19]

Yeh that's how I thought it worked but I got confused wen he said it's opposite to car.

[dr1ft-pig]

6mm will have more dish than a 3mm

[Kid Karola]

Yes more +mm means more dish on RC. (unlike actual offset where -ve = dish)

8mm
http://www.genkidoridori.com/images/TU38P.jpg

4mm
http://www.genkidoridori.com/images/TU37P.jpg

[Hyperslide]

I'm not reading through this whole thread so if this has been mentioned, sue me.

Nitro 1/10th cars are 200mm wide.

Electric 1/10th cars are 190mm wide.

If you put new (usually 6+ mm) offset rims on your electric rc car and they stick out past the guards, the easiest fix is to get a 200mm nitro shell (most designs are avaliable either190 or 200mm) that will cover the offset. If you go bigger than 10mm offset (the biggest I have seen so far is 14mm) then most of the time you will have to play with your suspension to get them to fit.



BTW Genki from GenkiDoriDori has moved back to Australia and I think has opened a shop in Coffs Harbour. He organises rc drift up there each week. He is still bringing a lot of the more obscure Japanese rc drift stuff here though.

[slydar]

yeah, the only real way to get the offsets spot on with rc stuff though is to buy the shell first, and have a few different offset wheels sitting around to trial fit. for example, im using the 190mm HPI sxe10 on my TB03D and with 7mm offset rims, its perfectly flush with just a tiny bit of camber.

i also have a 200mm HPI lexus LS430. which i can use the exact same offset on the front, but needs quite a lot more on the rear.

basically all shells are slightly different, 190/200 is just a rough guide.

[lovemy86]

i got a tt01d last year sometime just for a bit of fun. rc is so pimp!!! i got addicted to alloy parts though, i even have two piece alloy wheels!!! the skyline is the old shell, just flared the sprinter guard to fit those fat wheels and painted it up last night.

[70rolla]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQufUGvq_PI&feature=related

[Dom86]

Is $350 for a new TT-01 kit with battery and controller a good price?? A local shop has a couple 'reduced to clear'.
I was thinking of getting one while the real one sits..........

[slydar]

thats not too bad. try www.rcmart.com and put a package together. you might be able to get something a fair bit better for not much more. it shows shipping cost. use xe.com for currency conversion (everything is in usd).

[Dom86]

After reading a bit more and seeing more of your posts, I now think if I'm gonna buy one I may as well by a TB-03 or TB-03D....
Whats the difference? Is the TB-03D worth $100 more? Rolling chassis that is, no servos battery or controller.
Thanks for the info, I'll check out the link too.

[70rolla]

dont no whether to buy a tt01 that a mate has with controller spare new tires new receiver shell venom charger new belt two other motors both used and two batterys on good one ok and a box of other shit

[lovemy86]

all of that for just $100, you can't go wrong!

[slydar]

hundred bux is ok.

dom. the 03d has softer springs and doesnt have the ifs (inboard front suspension, lay down shox..)

apart from that its the same. are you sure you not looking at the one with the upgrade pack though? that has a lot of good extra parts.

tbh though, id probably suggest an early (non version 2) ta05. little bit better weight distribution. none of the updates of the revised model will make any difference to you when drifting, and you might get one with a decent supra or sc430 shell.

[Dom86]

Yeh it was the upgrade kit one. So its worth it?

[slydar]

its definitely worth it if tb03 is the way you wanna go. the upgrades it has are the essential ones your eventually gonna wanna do anyway, but youre saving a lot of money... its definitely better value compared to a normal tb03, or the normal tb03d.

having said that, if i knew everything i know now. id just get a ta05. of all the touring cars you can buy. it has the forward most engine positio(apart from much more expensive drift specific chassis'). its definitely the best touring car you can buy for the money, and the most upgradeable, useful upgrades i mean, that actually increase performance.

ive had a TB03 though. definitely a decent car too.

[Dom86]

Ok cool, thanks again for the info.

[70rolla]

............i brought the tto1 but turns out he didnt want to give me the venom charger as well so i ended up paying an extra 150 for the charger with new cords etc as well

[KE20]

Anyone know the ideal offset for flush to slightly poking fitment on a tt 01 s15

[AE092]

Which company made the S15? Yokomo/Tamiya/HPi? On a Tamiya TT01 you'll need 4mm offset if it's a Tamiya but generally you can run 6 or 7mm with some camber for the hella-flush look. Tamiya bodies are generally 188mm wide so you can't run as much offset

http://i28.tinypic.com/260zyba.jpg
For reference, thats a Tamiya body with 10mm offset with alot of camber

[Nicko]

MMM 22B, hot!

[KE20]

Which company made the S15? Yokomo/Tamiya/HPi? On a Tamiya TT01 you'll need 4mm offset if it's a Tamiya but generally you can run 6 or 7mm with some camber for the hella-flush look. Tamiya bodies are generally 188mm wide so you can't run as much offset

http://i28.tinypic.com/260zyba.jpg
For reference, thats a Tamiya body with 10mm offset with alot of camber
Tamiya tt 01 with tamiya s15 shell im new to rc drift, i just ordered some 7mm offset wheels and was thnking about getting some others but i dont wanna get stuff that wont fit
Thanks for the info

[hachidori]

edit.

[Kid Karola]

Came across this Speedway Pal N2 Levin (http://driftmission.com/speed-way-pal-toyota-ae86-n2-levin/) kit...

http://driftmission.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/slevin02.jpg
http://driftmission.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/slevin03.jpg
http://driftmission.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/slevin01.jpg

[Dish]

Bought the missus a TT01E a couple months back, good fun to play around with. Contemplating taking everything out of my TL01 and transferring it into it. Seems like a better chassis set-up for drifting than the TL01 especially on the driveline part. TT01 runs a much more direct system than my TL01. Hope she gets over it soon. Just wish I didn't completely rebuild and spend a shit load on my TL01 when I could've made one of these.

[slydar]

skip both. get a TA05.

[MoNsTaR]

i just did a countersteer mod to my tt01, now im keeping it hahaha, now to re-learn to drift it.

[Dish]

TA05 seems like alot of work and money. I just spent about $1200 getting my TL01 back up and running with brushless and 2.4 etc... and getting the missus a TT01E, think I'll stick to what we've got for the moment untill I get the shits again.

[Kid Karola]

Hey lads - just thought I'd share selling my Tamiya TRF TA03R - jump on it!

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/showthread.php/68724-Tamiya-R-C-TRF-TA-03R-Chassis

[shimatta]

I wish i didn't spend a lot of money on my tt01 and got something bit better. but either way its a good starting point for a beginner at rc's and rc drifting =p
If anything I guess I could just move my brushless motor and all that to the next chassis.