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Thread: Rebuilding 86

  1. #1
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    Talking Rebuilding 86

    im currently rebuildin me 86 theme is inital d but more of a cruzer but will be used for drift defantly i need:
    treuno front bar
    grille
    bar brackets job
    jap rear bar brackets
    yellow fog lights
    rear coilovers
    rear ajustable strut brace
    rear ajustable sway bar
    front ajustable sway bar
    looking for full buckets have 2 recaros will swap and or up for sale if i can find full buckets harnesses
    cage
    thats all i can think of atm will post more if i need more but if anyones got some parts getting rid off keen to take off ya hands cheers
    Last edited by Sherlock; 14th September 2009 at 10:08 PM. Reason: Spaced out just so I can even read it.

  2. #2
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    edit!
    Last edited by sundee; 14th September 2009 at 10:04 PM.

  3. #3
    Veteran slide86's Avatar
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    you dont need ANY of those parts....

    what you do need is an education

  4. #4
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    if u want parts, go to your local dealer, JUSTJDM (site sponsor) or look around

    treuno front bar - JUST JDM
    grille - JUST JDM
    bar brackets job - ?? front bar brackets??
    jap rear bar brackets - JUST JDM
    yellow fog lights - JUST JDM
    rear coilovers - dreaming, get your wallet out, u will only get them new
    rear ajustable strut brace - may have
    rear ajustable sway bar - new only (ajps) site sponsor
    front ajustable sway bar - new only (ajps) site sponsor
    looking for full buckets have 2 recaros will swap and or up for sale if i can find full buckets harnesses - u cant run harness's on the street.
    cage - u may want to elaborate on "cage" full cage? half cage? weld in? bolt it?

    check all the forsale threads..

  5. #5
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    bolt in full cage and researched you can run harnesses on the street with a mod plate i know its costin a shitload but well worth it and bar brackets so i can get rid of the zip ties i keep getting defected for them and i was trying to get some second hand parts to keep the price down a little bit and when people are trying to get rid of bits they dont need may as well grab them and make them look new if rear coilovers are that expensive and not the best to run whats something good to take most body roll away currently running cheap shit pedders shocks wit chopped falcon springs cant find springs that will sit nice and drive nice cheers guys all the help i can get ohh and if anyone is getting rid of a japense shell write off or what not im interested my shells more rusty then i thought cheers

  6. #6
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    sway bars are designed to resist bodyroll . the stiffer the bar the less roll.

    ive got rear JDM bar brackets, and ive got one drivers side front JDM bar bracket - dont have left side.

    coilovers are the ducks nuts. but u will pay atleast 800 for the rears alone.

    cheap springs n shocks - im not a fan of cut springs, now thats person preference, good ride height is from around 230mm down to 200mm fee height, obviously height is up to you. and some kyb short strokes. i dont know who you brizzi guys go to for new parts..

    i may have some TRD spings for sale - 230 mm fee height. im just about to work out the spring rate.

  7. #7
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    you might want to also tell him the negatives of runnin a fat swaybar, kyb aren't that good, pretty overpriced for what is still a twin tube shock

  8. #8
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    so whats the ideal sway bar size in an ae86 for drifting at beginners - amuture level?..
    dose

  9. #9
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    ok - negatives of larger sway bars are:
    increased NVH ( noise , vibration, harshness)
    the thicker the sway bar - the more resistance to roll, this in turn will cause the inside wheel to lift in a turn, which equals less traction , which equals a car more prone to sliding.
    BUT - if your sway bar is to soft and allows to much body roll, u have the revers affect, you will overload the outside tyre and then u will be sliding to.
    so as you can see its not about going big its about balance and getting the combination right.
    Then u have the issue of balanceing out the car.
    to work out how much stiffer your new bar will be from stock , u work it out like this:
    say your stock rear bar is 17mm
    17mm to the power of 4 (17 x 17 x 17 x 17) = 83521
    and u want to increase to a bar that is 21mm diameter.
    21mm to the power of 4 (21 x 21 x 21 x 21) = 194481
    then divide 194481 / 83521 = 2.3285 etc
    so the 21mm bar will be 2.4 times stiffer than the 17mm bar

    as u can see their is a bit involved, just figure out what u think u need and give it a go, its driving in the end, its all about personal preference, no onces setup is right for everyone. u can often get some base ideas and then go from their to get what YOU want!

  10. #10
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    hey sundee that formula is apparently "the fourth power of the radius". according to wiki.

    what youve done is the 4th power of the diameter.

    though the result is the same. around 2.4x

    any idea where that formula comes from? it has to be a simplified approximation of something.

    also keep in mind the stiffness will change if the mounting points change (adj swaybar etc)

    in general sway bars a good way to eliminate body roll, whilst still retaining "softish" springs. thats a VERY general explanation. a good setup will incorporate different springs and different sway bars.

    also keep in mind that little derivation assumes that the sway bars are made out of exactly the same material, its prolly pretty close (steel of some description) but yer just keep it in mind.

    this is a very technical wtb thread!
    Last edited by ke70dave; 17th September 2009 at 11:25 PM.
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