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Thread: How To: Flare Guards

  1. #21
    Senior Member
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    Do you guys think this method of flaring would allow me to turn the following?
    Currently hits the front of the guard quite a lot when turning.




  2. #22
    Veteran Konakid's Avatar
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    Henry
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    The front isnt even that low.

    Run a 205/50 or 195/50 and she will be apples. You'll clear everything you hit now too.
    RT142 Estate.

    AJPS.

  3. #23
    Veteran Konakid's Avatar
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    Yellow car needs to wind the LCA's in dude.
    RT142 Estate.

    AJPS.

  4. #24
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    Yeah i thought the widebody might be my only option. Tyres are already 195/50's.

  5. #25
    Veteran Clinton's Avatar
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    hey NFS looks good! can you do a write up on your wide body techniques...

    FTP.
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  6. #26
    Site Supporter Low Style's Avatar
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    i trimmed the lip on my gaurds where the plastic meets the metal so it was all the same size the whole way around the gaurd. this allows it to look decent on the inside and also if cops run there hand along it and its tapped down correctly it will feel like a un touched gaurd ( so not hacked)

  7. #27
    E-Famous (Remeber your roots)
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    ^Thats what I did with mine, I was running heaps of castor and I trimmed the front and then folded a new lip over.

    I love my hammer and dolly set..Paid like nothing for it but I love smashing stuff with it.

    HELL YES.. Your not running s13 front are you? That is WAYYYYY too much track.
    Last edited by marvis; 23rd September 2009 at 11:29 AM.

  8. #28
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    when it comes to the bog/painting prep whats the process? like do you need to etch primer the bare metal or use somehting to protect agains rust or just bog over the bare metal? then whats used in order from bare metal to paint?

    cheers
    nic

  9. #29
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    do you sand between all processes ??

  10. #30
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    yeh i just wanna do a quick job on the guards then wen im ready to spray the whole thing i will do it the whole hog

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