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Thread: How To: Flare Guards

  1. #1
    Senior Member blinded's Avatar
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    Default How To: Flare Guards

    1) Fit wheel and see how much flaring has to be done.


    2) Remove wheel and proceed to remove inner guard/plastic splash guard. Also, good time to take a photo for a "before" shot if you are keeping a record of it.


    3) Using hammer and dolly, flatten under the lip that normally has the inner guard screwed to it. This is to make it easier for the flaring part, and also means there is no sharp edge to the flare/guard.


    4) Use hammer and dolly again to flatten out the roll of the guard and make it continue to the same shape of the original factory flare. Take a bit of time, but the slower you do it, the better the result. Take it out to roughly where you need it then refit wheel and see if it is enough. If more is need simply work out it further until enough room is gained.



    5) Once shape is done, continue to work out the high and low spots and make it as smooth as can be had. Then use grinder/sander to remove old paint to prep it for painting. Give it a small swipe with bog then sand it all to shape to get out any imperfections in the metal work.


    6) Prime and paint then stand back and admire.
























    And, If you get stuck or need a little guidance, recommend finding one of these:

    Old man is the best helper ever!
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  2. #2
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    nice little write up man. whats the difference between using a hammer and dolly or guard roller? just a neewb body worker here

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    Veteran slydar's Avatar
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    the difference is, if you use a hammer and dolley, you dont need a guard roller.

    if you have a little bit of panel beating skill/generally ok with tools, then you can get a neat job without the roller.

    its basically the same thing, infact in a way, you can get a more uniform job by just using a hammer, as the roller is on a fixed radius, and the guard lip isnt always.
    Last edited by slydar; 17th September 2009 at 10:35 PM.
    78's

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    Veteran evil86's Avatar
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    where can i find one of those. nice flare. for thin stuff, hammer and dolly works a treat

  5. #5
    Senior Member GOODY's Avatar
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    Default

    Good little write up, I just did my rears the same way

  6. #6
    Junior Member shlee's Avatar
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    ask marv he does it all the time.
    might sound dodgy but it works haha.

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    is it hard to just belt up the lip and keep the original shape to the guard? i dont have enough offset yet to fill the complete flare but need the lip out of my way

  8. #8
    Senior Member Dylan's Avatar
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    ^ Won't be hard, if you use a heat gun aswell you might not even crack the paint

  9. #9
    Senior Member blinded's Avatar
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    Nope, not hard at all. I did my rears like that as I didn't need to flare them out. All I did was use the angle grinder to do a few small nicks on the lip so it folds under easier, but if you just go carefully, it will fold under fine. Just work across the whole length of the lip rather than trying to hit it all under in one go
    4K > 5K > Worked 5K > 4AGE > 146RWKW 4AGTE > 210KW SR
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    Now with a new lease on life will be back bigger and better!

  10. #10
    Site Supporter Low Style's Avatar
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    nice right up i did the same with my front ones but yours look better. hahaha

    im going to redo mine and get them sweet

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