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Thread: Javal's Mechanical Spirit Guide / 18RG XT130 Hate Machine

  1. #491
    Site Supporter Javal's Avatar
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    Oh hi.

    So, i've been accumulating some odds and ends in order to make a few improvements to my car. Also to fill my shed with as much crap as possible.



    I've collected the following:
    18R-GU which has been in storage since I started this thread. It all looks to be in good shape apart from a few odds and ends which will need to be replaced. That's going to get a rings and bearings rebuild.
    W55 which has been sitting in my shed for about 6 months. That's going to get a synchros and bearings rebuild.
    And an RT142 EFI fuel tank.

    Wait, don't I already have one of those in the car? Well, yes. But this:




    Fuel leak. It might actually be a moderately common issue, as my new tank had a very robust looking repair in the exact same spot.

    So I decided I might as well do a few upgrades while i'm putting the replacement tank in.

    Here's the factory EFI pump.




    And here's an Aeromotive stealth 340 E85 capable pump in the factory cradle.



    Not the neatest install in the world as I went for an offset inlet pump, which is meant to be a straight drop-in for an AE86 (which uses the same pump as RT142), but the fit is not ideal. If I do this again i'd go for a center inlet pump. Also, i'm not 100% sure that this setup is going to be E85 capable yet. My main concern is that petrol is non-conductive but Ethanol is. So unless that's a sealed connector in the tank (which i'm awaiting a reply on from Aeromotive tech support), it's not getting any ethanol in it due to my fear of things going bang. It doesn't really matter in the short to medium term as i'm currently running the factory ECU, which has less processing power than a gameboy and is definitely not capable of supporting a flex fuel setup (lol). I don't plan on changing management for the freshened up 18R-GU either. ANYWAY.

    This is what the old tank looked like before I put it in (circa November 2013)




    So I brought the replacement up to standard.

    Paint stripper and steel wool.




    Rustoleum primer.




    Bullshit $4 export gloss black




    Forgot to take a picture of it after I put the new foam pads on it. Refer picture of the old tank.

    Installation is a piece of cake. Undo the fuel lines, disconnect the level sender and pump plugs, drop the muffler, drop the tank.




    Swap the sender, evap outlet and filler neck over. My garage is tiny.




    Bam. New tank in.



    Test drive shows the new pump is no louder than my tinnitus albeit at a much lower pitch thankfully. I'll be taking it out to TCCAV cars and coffee on sunday, but the next big project either has to be that motor or getting my daily daily-able instead of being a street decoration.
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    You can have any brew you want... as long as it's a Datsun / Corolla / What is that?

  2. #492
    Veteran stahlz_ae86's Avatar
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    Export paint is so expensive now. Back in my day you could pick 'em up for two bucks a can.

  3. #493
    Veteran johl's Avatar
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    $4 for export? get the F out. pretty soon degreaser will be more than $1 per can
    stroked 2L ca18-ae86 in the build...eta xmas 2012?

  4. #494
    Veteran Jimmee1990's Avatar
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    This thing just keeps getting better and better Josh, apologies about the fan clutch issue but glad it's fixed all your top end power problems.

  5. #495
    Site Supporter Javal's Avatar
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    Oh hi.

    So it's time for an update, maybe. I realize that the forum isn't the preferred medium for updates, especially considering every second build thread is getting shafted by photobucket, but I do like the idea of keeping all of this information in one place. You know, in a vain effort to consolidate knowledge, hopefully so you don't get every asshat asking the same five questions on facebag groups. So i'm working through re-hosting some of the photos in this thread.

    Also i've been working on my car, which is probably what you're here for.

    As usual, I haven't been taking it out much and nothing is going right.

    There's been a persistent suspension issue that's prevented me really using the car properly. I've accrued all the bits to fix the problem, so it's just a matter of piecing it all together next weekend. It's just meant that I haven't really had any confidence in the car to behave itself the way it should.

    Aaaaaand there's been a few large issues with bodywork. Someone drove in to the back of my car and pushed the bumper into the bodywork. Easy to fix but difficult to get the paint to match properly, shit like that. Also, there have been a few instances of rust returning to the vehicle. In some not-too-easy to access spots. So I opened my wallet again, had all the rust cut out again, had the sections painted again and now my car has no rust again. For now.

    Oh, also the engine isn't too healthy. So i'm building a new one. Just for fun, really. I do like building engines.

    Anyway, pictures.




    Rallye Speciale nights




    Stripping the old engine down. 10 imaginary internet points to whoever can see what's wrong with it.




    Bearings have seen better days. No damage, just badly worn. I think this motor did a large amount of skids before being removed.







    Getting way ahead of myself and prepping the cam cover while the bottom end is at the machine shop and the car is off getting it's ass straight and rust cut out.




    Pimp my gargage.




    Hoarding more 18R-G spares.




    Bottom end back from machining. I'm going for: Standard spec 88253 bottom end, ARP rod bolts, ARP head studs, 88253 big valve head, 88210 cams. Pretty run of the mill rebuild.




    And this is when i got my car back from the panel shop. This was yesterday.

    More updates soon.


    Also these days I am on instagram because apparently that's what all the kids like, so if you want to keep up with my work between updates on here, add me if you can find me.
    You can have any brew you want... as long as it's a Datsun / Corolla / What is that?

  6. #496
    Site Supporter Javal's Avatar
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    Howdy.

    So this weekend I finally fixed my front suspension. It took me a little while to suss out exactly what was going on - first clue was the steering feeling a bit off - it couldn't be aligned consistently. Chucked it up on the hoist and I found some play in the RHF strut, kinda felt like the spherical bearing in the camber top had flogged out. Alas, further investigation showed the movement was actually in the strut. Looks like an error during fabrication left the strut nut unable to be sufficiently tightened, no matter how hard you try (believe me, I tried).

    So I sourced a new pair of XT130 struts and had a new pair of coilovers made up, with some revised specs.




    Boss man was kind enough to let me use the shop on a Saturday morning. Sure beats doing this on the ground.




    Here's the old ones. Cool story.




    New vs Old. 30mm longer body length, which will work nicely with my new springs to net me a little more droop. Shocks of choice are KYB AGXs. Stub axle gussets are a bonus.




    Again, New Vs Old. 200mm 5kg/mm + 50mm helper spring replacing the old 250mm 5.2kg/mm~ish ones.


    As is normal, the car fought me from start to finish while putting the new struts in. Didn't help that I still hadn't washed the underbody after some off-road antics, but I got there in the end.




    Cold beers were had. Brow heights are about 5mm lower than before, so I've got to wind the spring seats up a touch and get an alignment again, but it's 100% better.

    I've got a display event in about a month, but until then, the weather is good and the mountains are calling.
    You can have any brew you want... as long as it's a Datsun / Corolla / What is that?

  7. #497
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    Lookin good!
    Good ta have ya back and a good read, keep us updated!

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

  8. #498
    Veteran Konakid's Avatar
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    Nice one Josho. Ill chat to you about these springs sometime. Mine only had 45mm of bump travel due to too many windings in the spring. I switched to a slightly longer King Spring with half the coils. Gave about an extra 40mm of bump travel from memory.
    RT142 Estate.

    AJPS.

  9. #499
    Site Supporter Javal's Avatar
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    Hoo-fuckin-ray, time for another update.

    Plenty of things have been happening, some of them good, some of them less so.

    October '17







    I was honoured to be invited along to the final day of production at Toyota Australia's Altona plant. They asked the Toyota Car Club (Vic) to drum up one of every model they ever made in Australia, from Tiara to today. We almost got all of them, I think we were missing an RT81(?). Anyway, they asked me to bring mine, so that was very nice.


    December '17

    Classic Japan! My favourite show of the year, because it's ALL old Japanese steel. Again, this is put on by TCCAV. This year they decided to have a Motorkhana event for club members and interstate visitors the day before, so of course I put my hand up for that. Excellent day out, many skids, losing every 1v1 round to KonaKid in the process. I think Kevin(?) with the Hako skyline was filming for JNC that day, so I did my best to make my car make all the good noises.

    This, in combination with a 'she'll be right' attitude regarding prepping the car for a motorsport event (even if it is a grass roots, amateur event) resulted in my engine making some bad noises by the end of the day.

    I drove it to Classic Japan thinking I had a timing chain rattle. By the end of the day, it was pretty fucking clear that wasn't the case.

    Spun rod bearing, for sure. EPIC Fail.

    The upshot of this is that i'd already started building my spare motor, so I was already on the way to resolving the issue.



    January '18 to March '18.

    Car is off the road, gathering dust in the garage. The engine however is shaping up nicely, and it's at the point where i'm just chasing a few tiny little bits. I anticipate it being in the car by the first week of April.

    So in the previous installment, the bottom end had just come back from the machine shop. Big thanks to Tony at Speed Works in Ringwood for the top notch work from his team.




    Fresh bare block on the stand, fresh from being masked up, primed and painted.




    Thanks to James for hooking me up with all my engine build parts, including some N.O.S Toyota Genuine piston rings. I actually ended up putting a set of standard Hastings cast rings through it, as the Toyota ones are too cool a thing to have.




    Absolute overkill for this motor, endless (no joiner link) IWIS chains.




    Bottom end assembly begins, crank in, checking clearances. All in spec after machining. They don't make 'em like they used to, or something like that.




    Bottom end assembled. Standard 88.50mm bore, standard bearing sizes, 88253 8.7:1 pistons (better than the 8.3:1 in the current motor!).




    Auxiliary shaft in, lower timing chain, guide and tensioner assembled.




    Fresh welch / welsh / core / freeze plugs, depending on which part of the world you hail from.




    Again with the overkill, ARP studs fitted. It's got ARP rod bolts in it too - to prevent it shooting rods, of course. However the head studs were necessitated by the fact I didn't have a full set. Turns out I lost a few over the years, and they're a bit unobtainable these days.




    Something's missing.




    Cylinder head goes off for repair, my wallet quivers with fear.






    Playing paint shop again while I wait for the cylinder head.




    Planning my revised PCV setup. 88270 (EFI) 18R-G don't seem to run a conventional PCV system, but the earlier ones do. Considering this is an earlier motor with EFI bolted on to it, there's a bit of adapting to be done. The final setup will closely resemble the lower image, with a few minor revisions.




    Cylinder head returns. 1mm O/S inlet valves, modified intake ports with reliefs for the fuel injectors, milled down head bolt posts to suit the ARP studs.




    Cylinder head sheds a single tear, wallet has a complete breakdown.




    Dummy fitting everything 10,000 times before it all goes together for good. The head gasket in my engine gasket set was... not right. Ended up getting another one which is much more round.






    Checking valve clearances. The inlets were way wide, most likely due to the new valves, which necessitated purchasing some new shims. Precision Shims Australia have them, if you need some.




    Checking valve to piston clearance with the oversize inlet valves.




    Cylinder head gets torqued down for the last time (all previous work was with that dud headgasket as a dummy). OG Warren & Brown deflection beam torque wrench doing the heavy lifting.




    And this is where i'm at today. Top chain all slung up, timing set. I was going to pop the cam cover on, but the gasket kit I bought didn't have a new gasket for the timing chain tensioner, and most annoyingly, didn't have new half moon seals for the cam cover. Searched high and low through the shed for the old ones. Found one. I'd almost rather have found none. Hopefully they're not too tricky to track down.
    You can have any brew you want... as long as it's a Datsun / Corolla / What is that?

  10. #500
    Veteran Konakid's Avatar
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    Yesh Boyee.

    I didn't know you sun a bearing at that motorkhana!

    Also, wha brand HG was that? thats shocking.
    RT142 Estate.

    AJPS.

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