don't waste your time with lock spacer on a pwr rack. i had one on my manual rack but i took it out when changed to the T3 arms and i have all the lock i can use before my wheels hit the body rails.
Dual lock spacer shouldn't do anything. In theory you should max out rack travel by using one lock spacer and running two would just increase your bump steer.
Running a bolt on type lock spacer might overextend the rack or whatever making the rack travel beyond the seals or something. You can run slip on type lock spacers though.
Only way to get more lock is from cut and welded steering arms.
don't waste your time with lock spacer on a pwr rack. i had one on my manual rack but i took it out when changed to the T3 arms and i have all the lock i can use before my wheels hit the body rails.
ok, so the shorter the steering arm, the more lock you will get?
sounds like im going for t3 arms + johnny's extra lock rack ends.
hmmm...
there's a guy in melbourne who can cut and shut your knuckles professionally for about 120 i think
good man.
pm me details
0421 427 898
jake's his name, anyone else interested i'm sure he's happy to cut and shut your knuckles
what else do run besides the T3 arms mate, if you dont mind me asking?
you have to be very carefull running lots of lock with short arms, first off your gonna come into issues hitting the chassis rail if you havent got longer lower arms or massive neg offset wheels
and more importantly you should move your rack forward on the crossmember because when you get to the point that your rack arm is dead straight you no longer have any control over the arm and it can flop around at that point, im sure you guys must have seen some silvias with the wheel at full lock and it seems to be flapping about, this is because they have even shorter arms, but the rack is slightly further forward on crossmember, and they have added even more lock and no moved the rack.
this is one of the main reasons not to use s13 hubs in a ke70, because everyone overlooks the position of the rack
last time i looked at a p/s rack the most you'll get out of was around 6mm a side before you blow out the seals, 6mm is heaps with short p/s arms!!!!
i'll be using well negatived dished wheels + shorter pw/s arms + extra lock tie rod ends + sigma LCAs + t3 camberplates + factory castor rods with extra thread cut into them.
not quite sure how to move the rack forward though...
edit* castor rod.
my bad
Last edited by hachi_dk; 14th October 2009 at 04:38 PM.
imo standard ae86 ps arms and a lock spacer is enough for sliding action, also ur prob best off measureing offset and width of ur wrong wheels cause as boosted+k said, u may end up touching ur rail, if u do, some cars have a tab that u just touch never looked if 86 has it but people shave that down so u get about 30mm more space which normally saves you without shitting urself, as for sigma lcas id prefer xt130 but thats your choice, and if u cut and shut, make sure you have alot of confidence in the person who does the job cause if they snap ur car wont come out of it too well