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Thread: EOI: 4age re-build thread

  1. #11
    Veteran slide86's Avatar
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    Time to spin the engine over and get the head on!
    This is the head gasket i will be using. It a HKS item measuring 2.0mm in thickness.

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    Part number of HKS head gasket: 11116-018158AO

    Now time to put the head on!

    The head has been faced, New shims, new valve stem seals, fully cleaned.
    Its the standard big port head from the engine with the standard big port cams.

    Here is the head sitting on the block, has not be tensioned down yet.
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    A quick picture of the top of the head before anything goes on it. Buckets and shims already installed by engine machine shop.
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    Now time to install the cams. You cant mix them up because the exhaust cam is the one that has the distributor/CAS drive on it. I lubricated all the journals and lobes before installing, as well as the caps and the head.
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    Its a good idea to install the cam seals in the front caps before you tension them right down, otherwise they can be damaged if trying to hit them in afterwards.
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    Time to fit the front cam belt cover and the cam gears. Im using the standard gears at the moment but there will be a pair of adjustable gears making there way there soon. Its a very good idea to use loctite or similar on these bolts.
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    Last edited by slide86; 13th January 2009 at 11:38 PM.

  2. #12
    Veteran slide86's Avatar
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    Time to fit up the water pump. Im using the one of the motor, not sure if its the genuine one or a mix n match for the RWD conversion. It seems to work ok tho. I gave it a coat of heat proof paint, just makes it look a bit nicer.
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    Timing belt is the next thing on. VERY important to ensure that you have the cams lined up in the correct position before you put the belt on, also having the crank lined up too!
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    There are a few water housing that need to be fitted up, on at the front and one at the back. Ensure to use the gaskets and i used threebond to ensure they seal.
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    I painted the rocker covers to make it look a bit neater. Its just heat proof paint, but i think it looks alright. Im not really into chrome and all that. But I did pick up some bling bling in the form of an oil cap. Got it of ebay for $6.00

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    Now, the interesting part. I was determined not to use teh stock inlet manifold. I picked up a genuine RWD manifold cheap so i thought i would use this instead. BUT it doesnt fit! Time for some modifications....Basically I retained the factory mount, I just spaced it out and lowered it by about three inches.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    It looks a bit rough at the moment, but ill clean it up and paint it all. It actually works well and its quite secure and tight.
    Last edited by slide86; 13th January 2009 at 11:34 PM.

  3. #13
    Veteran slide86's Avatar
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    im tired now, have to get up soon

    feel free to ask questions and leave comments. ive rebuilt bout 60 LS1's as well (yes SIXTY), i wouldnt say im an expert, but a standard to mild rebuild im capable of id say

  4. #14
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    your post is too big i refuse to read it. but looks like youve nailed it.

    can you hook us up a cheap ls1 for my hot rod project? (not kidding actually..)

  5. #15
    Veteran slide86's Avatar
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    if you had asked me that 3 years ago i could have got you a complete engine for 500 bills....

    we had a stack of 12 at work!!!!

    i can still get all parts for em super cheap

  6. #16
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    this is an awesome thread!!

    should put those posts of slide86's into its own thread and sticky it

  7. #17
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    thanks for all the info guys . had a qiuick read through the 4age manual aswell ... i gotta say it very detailed ... which good i guess. .doesnt seem to hard as well.


    for a frist timer . like my self. should i not touch my unopened running 4age .. and open up a blown smoky engine and practice on that until i get a feel for all the parts and where they go ?

    oh +1 on the sticky ... awesome info on here.

  8. #18
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    Its easy, me and my bro rebuilt the engine by ourselves by using the manual.

    We had a mate lend us his ring compressor and some industrial assembely lube but other then that it was easy.

    I guess if you need to install new pistons it will be a bit harder.

  9. #19
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    wouldnt start with a fucked one if you plan to use it. easy and cheap enough to get a runner. plus it can end up being much more expensive, and in that case hard to justify.

    that said if you just wanna pull it apart so see whats inside.. with no pressure of it going back together and needing to run, do it. ive done it before. worth a few hundred bux for the experience. will make you less intimidated when you do it for real.

  10. #20
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    slide.. maybe you should mention, when fitting the piston/rod assembly, to insulate the rod bolts so you dont score the crank?

    its very possible to install them without doing this, but for the uninitiated probably still a good idea, its one of the few precautions really worth bothering with.

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