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Thread: ill-minded's RA65

  1. #71
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    How fun is taking the inlet manifold off? haha. You can take the head off with that bottom half still on by the way, just a couple things underneath to disconnect.
    Also, more details on that diff? What housing does it go in?

  2. #72
    Senior Member ill-minded's Avatar
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    Not particularly pleasant, but I haven't really run into too many snags up to that point yet. There are two bolts under the first two intake runners that are going to be impossible to undo with some of the crazy vacuum contraptions buried underneath. I think I'm going to be leaving most of them out when I put it all back together, once I work out what can be safely deleted. The EGR and air re-circulation systems are going in the bin for sure though. Already have the block-off plates for those, haha.

    Diff is a TRD jobbie. 41301-RA010 is the part number. It's a 2-way mechanical unit for F series diffs. It also suits GXE10/SXE10. The only other requirement are slightly different side bearings for them, which appear to be a common bearing within a few different locally delivered Toyotas. I ordered mine through Streeter when the exchange rate was at about 103 yen to the dollar. I think I paid about $750 landed via sea post.

  3. #73
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    So just need the different side bearings and it will go into a standard open diff housing with the standard c&p?
    Oh and I meant i left the second half of the intake manifold completely bolted to the head and disconnected everything underneath, then took the head off with it attached
    Last edited by Seventy; 29th July 2013 at 11:30 PM.

  4. #74
    Senior Member ill-minded's Avatar
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    I think there is something about needing to turn/cut a little bit off the ends of the output shafts, but I haven't gotten quite that far and I don't expect to be installing mine until after the motor is rebuilt and back in.



    I'd prefer to pull the motor as a long block, mainly to contain any oil in it so if I can't get the lower half off, I'll probably just leave it on and take it off after the engine is out.
    Last edited by ill-minded; 29th July 2013 at 11:43 PM.

  5. #75
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    Oh yeah forgot you were taking the whole engine out :s
    I wouldnt mind trying what Ive heard about using a stock ma61 lsd with extra plates in it

  6. #76
    Senior Member ill-minded's Avatar
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    I tossed up whether I should just get a re-shimmed MA61 diff, but by the time I find and buy one, buy and fit the rebuild kit and get it installed with new bearings and seals, I'm not far off getting a brand new TRD centre. I think the TRD centres also have 4 pinion gears as opposed to 2 in the MA61 ones, so it should be less prone to exploding if I ever do wind up with something that makes big power.

  7. #77
    Veteran LittleRedSpirit's Avatar
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    Yes that will be a nice diff, and judging by that photo the non lsd axles will need cutting, unless you can adapt the lexus stubs somehow. I was looking at getting a type 2 torsen for mine one day from an sxe10 altezza. I was able to get a nice one for my sprinter diff for a good price, but I still ended up spending about 1200 bucks on it all by the time it was done. I dont believe they lock on decel as hard as a two way.






  8. #78
    Senior Member ill-minded's Avatar
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    Half the reason I went mechanical is so it'll lock even with one wheel in the air so I can actually get in and out of awkward driveways.

    In other news, I've got the entire intake side of the motor stripped now. Head looks to be in pretty good condition with no visible corrosion, so should be good. The timing chain and guides are well and truly shagged though, as previously pictured. I even got all the exhaust manifold nuts off without any of them snapping. Hurrah! Main things left now are to disconnect and remove the P/S pump, pull the exhaust manifold and then just split it from the gearbox and undo the engine mounts.

  9. #79
    Senior Member ill-minded's Avatar
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  10. #80
    Senior Member ill-minded's Avatar
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    Let the fun times begin. The oil pump has at some point ingested some kind of foreign body, which has scored the face of the timing case and the steel pump gears, so I'll be ordering a new pump. Since the head looks to have been reconditioned at some point, I'll see if I can get away with minimal work on it to help save some money.

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