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Thread: Drift RC Cars

  1. #21
    Veteran slydar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by calknowles View Post
    nice ta05?
    nah, TB03. shaft car. but same suspension etc.
    78's

  • #22
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    thats why i thought so, why did u go shaft?
    Quote Originally Posted by biggo View Post
    young cal will man up one day, then he will be twice the man you are gunner man.


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  • #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by DRFTR86 View Post
    hey guys, i had a play around with one of my mates tt01 on the weekend and im hooked, still havent got my head around what is good and such, ive read through the tt-01 thread that slydar created, and gathered that im best to start with a tt01.

    got a few questions for you rc gurus out there:

    where do you get tamiya shells??, are other shells like yokomo and hpi compatible with the tt01 chassis.

    are othere manuafacturers wheels compatible with the tt01, ie hpi racing te37

    how is offset worked out??

    im planning on buying the tt01 coppermix s15 kit from oz rc. as it doesnt come with reciever gear and battery, whats the best to get???, my mates battery doesnt last very long and i can see that pissing me off quickly, so what am i looking for in a longer lasting battery.

    bring the advice peoples, much appreciated
    1. tbh, if youve had a chance to try it out rc drifting, and like it, then maybe just get a TBO3 or TA05. these cars need zero hop ups. they come with all metal drive train, full bearings, etc. if you can pick on with a body you like, then that makes things alot easier.

    all shells are compatible with other chassis. all the car used for drifting are the the style 1/10th EP (electric powered) touring cars (4wd). you will just have to estimate/work out where to put the holes for the body posts if you mix manufacturers.

    my car is a HPI shell on a tamiya chassis.

    all touring cars just about, use the same wheel hex's are are therefore compatible. again, im using HPI wheels on my tamiya.

    normally, wheels are a 0 offset, some tamiya stock wheels are -3. offset is the same as cars, but opposite. -3 is 3mm further in, +6, 6mm further out.

    radio gear, just get what youre willing to spend. i had futaba JR which ozrc has for like $40 for a full set. recently upgraded to 2PL 2.4ghz so i dont have to worry about frequencies when i got to tuesday/thursday meetings, but it was $200 without for just a transmitter and receiver, no servo.

    batteries depends on what motor you run a bit. i found my TT with a 19t ran for ages on a 3300mah NIMH battery.

    when i changed to brushless, i was getting pretty shit run times, so upgraded to lipo, but you do need a fair bit more exxy charger. batteries are .2v more powerfull, run harder right up untill theyre "flat" and you get way more cycles out of them before they start to die (performance drops away).
    78's

  • #24
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    wow, typo town. anyway sure you can decipher it.
    78's

  • #25
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    Yokomo mr4tcsd

  • #26
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    NEVER EVER EVER EVERRRR RUN A LIPO FLAT!!!!!!
    yes i will never use a nihd battery again just wasting time lipos you can get close to an hour.
    Quote Originally Posted by biggo View Post
    young cal will man up one day, then he will be twice the man you are gunner man.


    <img src=http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m26/callumknowles/corksig-1-1.jpg border=0 alt= />

  • #27
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    yea never run lipo's flat they don't have a memory like most batteries and if they go flat they simply die
    should i get my FULLY sick drift team losi BK2(its a 2wd buggy that drifts nice in dirt)with the 13x2 motor, hand wound, blue printed and FUCKING FLYS

  • #28
    Senior Member DRFTR86's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by slydar View Post
    1. tbh, if youve had a chance to try it out rc drifting, and like it, then maybe just get a TBO3 or TA05. these cars need zero hop ups. they come with all metal drive train, full bearings, etc. if you can pick on with a body you like, then that makes things alot easier.

    all shells are compatible with other chassis. all the car used for drifting are the the style 1/10th EP (electric powered) touring cars (4wd). you will just have to estimate/work out where to put the holes for the body posts if you mix manufacturers.

    my car is a HPI shell on a tamiya chassis.

    all touring cars just about, use the same wheel hex's are are therefore compatible. again, im using HPI wheels on my tamiya.

    normally, wheels are a 0 offset, some tamiya stock wheels are -3. offset is the same as cars, but opposite. -3 is 3mm further in, +6, 6mm further out.

    radio gear, just get what youre willing to spend. i had futaba JR which ozrc has for like $40 for a full set. recently upgraded to 2PL 2.4ghz so i dont have to worry about frequencies when i got to tuesday/thursday meetings, but it was $200 without for just a transmitter and receiver, no servo.

    batteries depends on what motor you run a bit. i found my TT with a 19t ran for ages on a 3300mah NIMH battery.

    when i changed to brushless, i was getting pretty shit run times, so upgraded to lipo, but you do need a fair bit more exxy charger. batteries are .2v more powerfull, run harder right up untill theyre "flat" and you get way more cycles out of them before they start to die (performance drops away).
    do oz rc stock these tb03 and ta05, and how much do they go for??, i think im gonna drop into a hobby store and have a good long chat about whats what, etc. thanks for the reply dimitri, sort of get it and sort of have to do more homework.

    are there any aus based drift rc forums i can read up on???

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  • #29
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    briz drift is good not sure if its alive. down under drift or something is another
    Quote Originally Posted by biggo View Post
    young cal will man up one day, then he will be twice the man you are gunner man.


    <img src=http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m26/callumknowles/corksig-1-1.jpg border=0 alt= />

  • #30
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    With Li-Po battery packs, you can (recommended) get Li-Po 'cut-offs' so once the battery pack gets to a certain limit, it cuts out alot of the power to let you know that it now requires charging.

    As for fitting bodies of different makes to different chassis, here's a tip. Before painting the body, place it over your chassis body mounts and with a permanent marker, mark out the dots for the body posts. This is once you have aligned/offset the wheels correctly. In some instances you may have to cut out the body.

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