Dry sump setup

[Jonny Rochester]

Let us discuss making a dry sump setup for a 4A-GE or similar.

I will be working on a 4A-GE N/A, and the dry sump "sump" is already made from aluminium. No fittings have been welded to it yet.

Obviously I start to look at some Formula Atlantic setups. They are not all the same. I also can look at the TRD Levin Bible, in the N2 section.

The TRD oil pump in the bible looks to be one piece designed for the application, and I doubt I would ever find it. There are many other oil pump suppliers on the net now, and they seem to make a segmented universal pump. You choose how many stages you want the pump to have.

Some setups on 4A-G's have the oil pump on the left, some on the right. Some also use a vacuum pump? And it seams the Formula cars do not run an alternator?

[Jonny Rochester]

I guess the first think is to draw a plan, and decide how many stages I need the pump to have, then buy the pump. Then decide on the pumps RPM range and design the sprocket sizes. Then decide on a style of belt and drive.

Any ideas? Pictures?

[slide86]

I got one half decent pic of a nice 4ag setup.



you can see the pump and some of the line setups.....not sure how helpful this pic will be, but it looks good

i also have HEAPS of 4age tuning mags.....ill have a look and see if there is anything worth scanning......

[Evocom]

I believe zoom magazine did a tech article on dry sump setups not long ago [maybe when they went to the name BOOST] about 4 or 5 months ago. ill try and dig up the issue if you are interested so i can give you the issue number. was quite a good article and they also did another in the same issue on DIY dry sump setups with the demonstration engine being a N/A 4age if i remember correctly.

[fantapants]

billzilla also has a good article floating around on a 4a specific drysump setup using more financially appropriate pieces

[Anthony]

a lot of cheaper setups retain the original pump as the pressure pump. you can plumb into it by removing some bungs out of the side of the pump etc. they then use a two stage external pumpo for scavenge from the front and rear of the pan.

[squeak]

Jonny, have spent most of today researching this topic, most parts can be sourced here in aust , bdg in west aust make a very good pump , but can only run to 4500 rpm , speedracersportscars in syd have the sump as used on PRB clubman cars , so it is all here in Aust only the cost may be $$$$$ for some .

I have been contemplating a high rpm 4age for some time know and this is one of the last hurdles to cross.

The fact that the bdg pump can only run at 4500 is no problem as most dry sump pumps run at half engine speed.

peter k

[Jonny Rochester]

I was thinking of having it at exactly half engine speed, like the camshafts. Infact I was thinking of using a camshaft sprocket on the pump, and a second timing belt sprocket on the crank. Then using a regular timing belt, maybe shorter. But if a short T belt wasn't found, I will have to use the engineering standard belts that are used for these things.

Does anyone know about what is the best belt standard to use?

[lo_rolla]

Lads, I know I should know this... You know, engine reconditioner and all, but I've never worked in performance (I've done the machining, not full builds).
But I'm building a CBY 5.5AGE with TODA head, oversize valves and 304degree cams with 11mm lift with the ami of 220+hp at around 10,000rpm, should I be looking at a dry sump set up?

[resol]

dry sumps are sick! dont forget crank scrappers either.

im slowly researching this for my NA sr20 build. formula 3000 cars run dry sump (as do most top level race cars).

when im less tired i will post up some info i have collected.


-dan