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Thread: Jonny's Levin GTV Twincam 20

  1. #1
    Veteran Jonny Rochester's Avatar
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    Default Jonny's Levin GTV Twincam 20


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    This is my AE86 as I got it a long time ago. Same as the rest of them. Early model SR spec.

    Very slow, very soft. But still went where your pointed it despite the body roll. I think if I was designing a new car, I would test it with rooted shocks and bushes and soft springs, and try and get the geometry right like that, just like a old AE86. Then I would know when I put good suspension in it, it would be awsome. Try my brothers SV21 with old suspension and engine mounts? Worst Toyota car ever.

    Of course, I am rebuilding the car from ground up. It has been disassembled down to every nut and bolt.

    My vision is to get it back together still looking exactly the same as in the top picture! I have old man tastes. But:
    1. it will be all GTV spec. Out with the SR spec stuff. Mostly using Toyota parts new and old. Avoiding custom stuff.
    2. but with a 20valve. As neat and factory like as I can.
    3. with street/track suspension and brakes of course
    4. and with minimum safety equipment for a possible CAMS event like Targa or something. So rollcage and stripped out interia.

  • #2
    Veteran Jonny Rochester's Avatar
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    So I have the bare shell. All sound deadening removed ages ago. You know the drill. I removed un-used brackets.

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    Gave it a good clean all over. Removed some paint and tar with petrol or carby cleaner, or wax and grease remover.

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    Used both a MIG and TIG to stitch weld most of the shell inside and out. Made a mess with the welders, but it will be sorted shortly. Shell is presision aligned due to the use a 4 jack stands of different brands.

  • #3
    Veteran Jonny Rochester's Avatar
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    The motor will be N/A. Hopefully the shell will last longer than the motor, so I can rebuild it to again rev as hard as I plan to the first time.

    I will use a 4A-GE from AE101. Mostly standard for now. Now for my very simple RWD conversion! Reading this Sam?

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    Nothing new here. Just a cover.

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    I made a hole in the head. I removed the web in the head and avoided the need for a external channel. Oh dear, I can never use this in FWD again! I used a drill bit with a long extension I made. And a chissel and hammer.

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    This is a stock AE86-4AG part# 11181-16030. I got it new. The two sensors are the EFI water temp sensor, and the start-time sensor used for the cold start injector. I only need the EFI temp sensor of course.

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    And it so happens it almost fits the 20valve in a similar location. The holes will need to be drilled 1mm bigger at the most, but it fits! On the 16v this water bracket bolts to the centre of the head, with the 20v it is to the right. This leaves only 1 other hole to be blocked, and I can easliy make a plate for that. I may cut the steel pipe shorter, as I don't need the small fitting anyhow edit: or use a AE82 item.

    The RS-Chita kit uses the same water fitting, only they have it located more centraly on another plate so it acts as a channel as well.



    And this is the finished result. The most low profile and cleanest 20v RWD conversion yet? I just used the AE86 water block, with the tube cut shorter. (I could have used a AE82 one, or the AE92 one would even fit). The EFI temp sensor is in place. And the standard AE86 gauge-temp sensor is the same thread size as the old start-time switch, so it just screws in! (with a drop of silicon to ensure it seals). A small hole is tapped into the head to hold the new plate I made.

    Very simple, except you do have to drill out the web in the head a fair bit.
    Last edited by Jonny Rochester; 20th February 2009 at 12:01 AM.

  • #4
    Veteran Jonny Rochester's Avatar
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    Here I have a host of expensive genuine Toyota bits that I need to do the 20v to RWD conversion right. Most just AE86-4AG parts.

    12511-16011 Alternator cast bracket
    16381-16010 alternator top bracket
    16100-19095 waterpump
    16323-16020 thermostate housing
    16371-16021 waterpump pulley

    Alternator itself is the AE101 one that came with the motor. Belt is 5PK835. I machined the extra belt drive off the crank pulley. I will use the stock AE86 viscous clutch fan. Dipstick is the 4A-C one.

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    The old 4A-C heater tube is shown. It blocks the use of a knock sensor. I may cut the tube short. I still need to make the top water fitting, which will have a little water bypass in it.
    Last edited by Jonny Rochester; 29th January 2009 at 11:37 PM.

  • #5
    Veteran Jonny Rochester's Avatar
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    I made a nylon cover on the lathe, sold it, then made another. The second time I cheated and didn't make the wings to save time.

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    This is a 1AZ-FE / 2AZ-FE coil. The main body of it needs to be machined lightly on a lathe for it to fit the narrow 20v plug tube. You would need to make some sort of bracket at the top. I have since decided on 1ZZ-FE coils, which are a little shorter.
    Last edited by Jonny Rochester; 25th January 2009 at 12:42 AM.

  • #6
    Veteran Wally's Avatar
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    Jonny the god of information!

    Will be looking forward to watching this thread!
    1984 JDM Zenki Trueno GT-Apex Hatch
    4AGE 16V
    +Quads, HKS 264 cams, Microtech LT10s, TRD gearset gearbox, TRD2WAY LSD, fun!

    FOR SALE: JDM 4AG PACKAGE+ITEMS (ENGINE/GBOX/EXHAUST/ECU/SHIT)

    http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/fo...ad.php?p=15205

  • #7
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    that's some handy info, gee you're clever. i'm sure this is going to be a top build

  • #8
    Veteran Jonny Rochester's Avatar
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Name:	my 20v.jpg 
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    I went with the 1ZZ-FE ignition coils. 90919-02239

    TDI (Toyota Direct Ignition System: ignition coil with built-in igniter) is what google told me.

    I machined the coils on the lathe. I drilled and tapped the cam cover! Holes go right through, so I need either knead-it or silicon or weld to seal the threads. So I admit it's not the perfect job I wanted. Maybe it needs helicoils as well.

    Note that the 1ZZ-FE coils are a bit short, and have to be used without the rubber spacer/seal. And they are still 1 or 2mm short, but I'm sure thats ok. The 1NZ and 2AZ coils are a bit longer, the 1NZ being longest. Most pictures of this setup from Japan I have seen uses 1NZ-FE coils and a sheet metal mounting plate from Impulse or RS-Chita or one of those. (1NZ coils can be found in the Prius).


    Oil cap is from a V6 Kluger, which is the same as a AE111 cap. Lighter and simpler than the AE101 cap.
    Last edited by Jonny Rochester; 20th January 2009 at 01:02 PM.

  • #9
    Veteran Jonny Rochester's Avatar
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    I am planning different cams later on, and different computer. So I can't be bothered with VVT. Best to get it sorted early on.

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    I know I didn't need to remove the VVT thing. But I made a plug with o-ring and saved 200g.

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    It gives a race look also! I will make another plate over the top of it.

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    This is the actual VVT thingy. It is not obvious how to open it up. Some surgest that variable intake timing can be a good thing if you limit the movement of the AE101 item, (then spend a lot of time sorting it out on the dyno). Maybe I will open it up on a rainy day and see, (once my car is going and I have no other problems in my life, so never).

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    TODA camshaft gears for AE101 5-valve. VVT is totally removed, but a o-ring is still in place to stop oil pissing out the standard intake cam. These gears are very high quality! I would guess better than what race teams used in the 80s.
    Last edited by Jonny Rochester; 29th January 2009 at 11:41 PM.

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    性交を愛する marvis's Avatar
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    Everything looks so clean!
    Quote Originally Posted by trikzlane View Post
    I love streeting, Lowdown cars and watching the world unwind by every word Marv types.
    Quote Originally Posted by keiichi View Post
    dont you get raped by the police everywhere you go?

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