fuckin a to that stratergy.
makes pulling the car down so much easier when you only need a few tools. plus a factory look alike finish is a win...
it worked for the millions of corollas made to date.... so it may as well keep working
I am a total nerd when it comes to bolts.
The AE82,AE86,AE92,AE95 oil cooler hoses had an external cloth braid. It was like a plain rubber hose, and the cloth braid was on the outside, kind of old fashioned looking. And they used stainless screw on hose clamps. (And I have a set if I want to use them). They leak a very tiny bit, but mostly because those cars are very old now, but most still run the original hoses.
The AE101/AE102,AE112 went to a regular looking hose, where the braid was part of the hose, and the exteria was plain back rubber. And spring clamps where used, as I have put on my car.
But the main point is, the factory Corolla oil cooler setup is low pressure and not full flow.
Most people here will want a full pressure full flow oil cooler, in which case you probably want Earls/Speedflow fittings on everything.
When my car first drives, I will try to have no zip-ties anywhere, no worm drive hose clamps, no 13mm or 11mm nuts, no imperial sized fittings, no Earls fittings, no allen head bolts, no T-bolt clamps. I may ease up on that philosophy, but I think it's a good place to start.
fuckin a to that stratergy.
makes pulling the car down so much easier when you only need a few tools. plus a factory look alike finish is a win...
it worked for the millions of corollas made to date.... so it may as well keep working
whats wrong with worm drive hose clamps?
while i understand you using spring clamps on your oil cooler hoses, i don't see any advantage on using them on your coolant hoses. all toyotas i ever see come in at work always leak past the spring clamps, even ae102 + ae112. good worm drive clamps, such as worth clamps are far superior than any spring clamp.
I know. Spring clamps come on cars because they are cheap. Worm drive clamps are more complex and more expensive. A spring clamp will only work if it's the right size and the hose is fresh. A worm drive will work on anything if you do it up tight enough, but may crack a plastic radiator. But consider I havn't paid any money for most of the fittings yet. More thought, less money.
When I saw those hoses I thought "bozoku" for a second, then I came to my senses, remembered its Jonny and laughed; bozoku - Jonny, not likely
Is that an imperfection I can see on the radiator? LOL
I got the radiator for $10 off ebay a few years ago, then sold my old radiator for $45. Maybe I could straighten those fins. It's just the stock single core one, so we will see if the 20v overheats it. If so, then I will find a twincore automatic spec one.
i have an auto rad didnt know it was twincore cool!!
I didnt realise the system was low pressure it all makes sense now ill pick on everything else as you go lol im getting the same as u now, pull everything apart, inspect figure out how it works clean it and reasemble makes a more perfect job!
AE86 THE BEST
hey fast eddie just so you know not all auto 86 radiators are twin core
I just looked it up on the EPC again. It seams there were only 3 different rad cores for AE86/AE85.
16403-15231 auto
16403-14030 Denso manual
16403-15210 Toyo manual
The auto radiator is listed in the TRD Bible as the recomended upgrade for N2 and Group A. So I assume the auto one is the 2 core, and I think every auto would have come with a twincore, plus trans cooler in the base. I think the tanks are different, and Autralia never got an auto. But it seams radiator shops can order the auto radiator.
I got a new auto radiator, it was single core ALTHOUGH I think it may have been for an ae85. It was aftermarket with alloy core but it worked extremely well with my gze on the track. Cost me something like $230 with coolant, same day delivery.
Last edited by Nikkojoe; 22nd April 2009 at 12:31 AM.
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