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Thread: Jonny's Levin GTV Twincam 20

  1. #141
    Veteran Jonny Rochester's Avatar
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    The radiator looks good. Same item for 3A-U or 4A-GE or 4A-C.

    According to TRD, the auto one is rated at 26,500kcal. Maybe the aftermarket rad company thought they could achive that with a single alloy rather than the twin copper core.

  2. #142
    Veteran Nikkojoe's Avatar
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    Possibly could have a higher fin density than the genuine ones, but its probably cause it was cheaper to make.
    1983 AE86 ADM rust spec goodness track car build - end of the road
    1984 AE86 Silver ADM mk2 daily build - SOLD
    1984 AE86 ADM granny car daily now 4AGZE - SOLD
    1983 AE86 ADM Engine Conversion Slut - SOLD
    2002 IS200 6spd - new daily in progress
    1986 AE86 JDM GT-Apex Levin Notchback ready to roll......

  3. #143
    Veteran Jonny Rochester's Avatar
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    Default Dash


    How it looks now.


    Painted the dash pannel matt black.


    Fitted the heater. I put new foam on a couple of joints. Non A/C duct from a AE71.


    Hand brake lever is the disk brake item (slightly different in lever ratio, and softer handle).
    TRD short stroke shifter, standard knob.
    GT throttle pedal.
    Dash cut to suit roll cage.
    Key turns and cranks the motor!
    Very rare steering wheel for a AE86 Trueno Black Limited.

  4. #144
    Senior Member s14seriesII's Avatar
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    very nice jonny but would it not be better to build to original specs ? u have so many nice new original parts and doing things like factory but factory never fitted a cage or 20v
    Owner built and tuned 9000rpm 402kw atw 3sGTE - AE86

    Quote Originally Posted by Beau View Post
    4ages are for the scared

  5. #145
    Veteran Jonny Rochester's Avatar
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    If I wanted a GT-Apex, I should just buy one and drive it around. It would make a OK daily driver, but not too different to my 1985 Subaru (for normal driving, unless you did skids).

    With the AE86, I am building what I want or course. It is all modular. The 16v will swap into it no problem. And for a race car the Australian spec shell works well because it is already lighter and simpler. Lighter wiring harness, only 1 horn instead of 2, no climate control etc... And there is no existing EFI wiring so you get to start from scratch.

    For any competition in Australia, the cage is needed, wether it's a standard car or not.

    The whole factory original parts thing is for a few reasons. The standard parts work quite well if you know how to maintain a car. And even "JDM" or new parts often work out cheaper than modifyed or "racing" spec parts.

  6. #146
    Senior Member worked's Avatar
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    love this bus
    no jive talkin stuff about needing to be JDM or whatever
    just building it how you want it.
    i tip my hat to you good sir
    NEAR MISS

  7. #147
    Veteran Jonny Rochester's Avatar
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    Yeah thanks.

  8. #148
    Senior Member aaron's Avatar
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    is the dash panel a nightmare to get to (paint) if the windscreen is in?
    i wanna do mine now lol.
    wat paint u use for sun protection?

    car looking very nice btw

  9. #149
    Veteran Jonny Rochester's Avatar
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    It would be hard with the windscreen, but my car has no glass as is. Part of my painted area would be behind the glass.

    I just used a matt black can that was laying about. It happened to be VHT acrylic enamel.

  10. #150
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    Looks like its coming together nicely and at a decent pace, looking good

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