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Thread: Jonny's Levin GTV Twincam 20

  1. #21
    Senior Member Matt-AE86's Avatar
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    I look forward to the next chapter

  2. #22
    Senior Member grantobius's Avatar
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    Default hey

    with ur bottom water outlet on your water pump,with my 20v l had clearace issue and the hose was rubbing on alternator. You may have already done something to avoid this but a ae82 thermostat housing works great, it has hole for a temp sensor which l just plugged up but it comes out on a better angle.

  3. #23
    Senior Member Matt-AE86's Avatar
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    You can use that hole for the original fan switch thermostat, if you wan't to run an elec fan that is.

    It does appear to be a genuine brand new AE86 thermostat though. Maybe Jonny can shed some light on this situation ?

  4. #24
    Veteran Jonny Rochester's Avatar
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    I use a genuine AE86-4AGE thermostat housing, so I don't expect any problems. Everything in that region of the motor is AE86-4AGE parts. You get problems when you start to mix and match. The only part Toyota don't make is the top water outlet for a RWD 20 valve.

    AE82 and AE92 have 4 different water temp sensors. I only need 2, which can both be in the heater fitting on the back of the head. (May try a AE82 item if someone has a spare).

  5. #25
    Senior Member Matt-AE86's Avatar
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    They only differ in plug type, and the ae82 type is the one you want right ?


    (say yes, you will get 200 points)

  6. #26
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    looking good mate i have done the alt/thermo housing same as you. Would like to see how you do the top water outlet, thats the last bit i need for my conversion!

    cheers

    Daniel

  7. #27
    Senior Member Matt-AE86's Avatar
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    You can modify it so it comes out in a stockish position. For me it was quite close to the alternator but that is only because I retained a FWD setup.


  8. #28
    Senior Member grantobius's Avatar
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    well l used the rs chita kit and all genuine jdm bigport stuff aswell

  9. #29
    Veteran Jonny Rochester's Avatar
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    Oil cooler:
    In Japan, none of the Corollas from AE86 to AE111 were fitted with a factory oil cooler. In Australia and Europe most Corollas have a factory oil cooler, even the 4A-FE ones. I believe if the 20v were sold in Australia, it would have had the oil cooler. The AE86 did have a factory oil cooler option in Europe. It used the same oil filter valve body as the AE82/AE92/AE101/AE112.

    I went and got the setup from a AE92 at the wrecker.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I drilled a 12mm hole in my sump in the same location. I welded a M12x1.25 nut on the inside of the sump. It looks factory.

    The only problem is the top banjo fitting is on a funny angle, too close to the engine mount. On the Europe AE86, this was a straight fitting, not a banjo.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    This pic shows a RWD 4A-GE with factory oil cooler setup. You can just see the straight fitting, gold in colour. This part is hard to get so I will just make it.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Made it in aluminium. No one wanted to sell me hex bar.

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    Of course the TRD Bible shows every one of their setups with either a full flow high pressure oil cooler using Earls stuff, or a dry sump. I went and bought the Earls addapter and fittings and cooler. But I got frustrated because you have to find a combination of parts that clear the block and everything else. The rest of the car is 98% Toyota so may as well keep it that way till I have a real problem.

    And ask yourself this, how many Earls fittings in red and blue with braided hose do you find on the R35 GT-R? Problably non.
    Last edited by Jonny Rochester; 29th January 2009 at 12:59 AM.

  10. #30
    Veteran Jonny Rochester's Avatar
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    Roll over protection: Schedule J

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    Sorry, there is nothing JDM about my roll cage. Pretty much a bare minimum cage with reference to the CAMS manual, and some thought to rigidity, and keeping it lightish.

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    The AE86 is not a fast car. It is a light fun car used for training and practice. So no need to go overboard with heavy tubes.

    Roll cage is pretty much finished now. The good welds are done by Aaron Martin, who builds a fair few cages on the side. (I did the bad welds). You will see much better when its painted. Now I have to clean everything ready for paint.

    I have to hammer out some dents in the bonnet. To make this possible, I am thinking of cutting all the support webbing from under the bonnet. What you think?
    Last edited by Jonny Rochester; 27th January 2009 at 04:00 PM.

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