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Thread: Jonny's Levin GTV Twincam 20

  1. #31
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    I heard without the webbing when you drive the car the bonnet will flex and bounce around...

    Anyway this is an awsome build!!!
    I have to get a camera so I can post up my engine progress..
    Good stuff Jonny..

  2. #32
    Senior Member BLACK COUPE's Avatar
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    my bonnet has no webbing and is fine when driving, dosent flex and bounce around at all really, unless you press firmly in the middle of the bonnet lol, nice build looking foward to seing the finished product
    stay classy

  3. #33
    Veteran Jonny Rochester's Avatar
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    Thead is updated with more info and pictures.

    I may go ahead and cut the bonnet, V8 Supercar style.

    May do some A pillar bracing to tie the cage to the body.

  4. #34
    Moderator Sam-Q's Avatar
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    I assume that was aimed at me, I can see why you would want to do it this way as it looks original however this is not new. This is basicly an RS Chita concept copy, its something I put into my new unreleased cooling guide like 6 months ago. Also your rear backing plate uses the stock ae92 outlet that by memory is 27mm thick, that combined with the plate to block the other port and you have something that sticks out over 30mm. The rear bypass plate I make when fitted with counter-bored holes uses up 25mm all up. So I think having a big block of aluminium for a bypass pipe may not be the toyota would do it but I think its hard to beat in how low a profile it is.

    Anyway enough bitching, as Slydar has said I want to see what you have planned for your top front water outlet and your bypass pipe.

    Thanks for the info on the coils, a quick one how much longer are the 2AZ coils over the 1ZZ coils? I am going to put a wanted add for some.

    The 1zz coils do like very nice on your engine but why not bolt them all to a plate which then bolts to the two blind threaded holes in the cam cover valley?

    How did you machine the coils? by using a 4 jaw chuck and live center?

    I particually like your work on a lathe from the coils, the vvt plug and the oil fitting, very nice work indeed.

    For the rear water pump housing rear pipe you could chop and change the angle of it to clear the knock sensor like I did or you could do something else I am working on which is to make a flanged to suit the back of the water pump, fit a 5/8" barbed outlet into the flange and just extend the heater hose, however its probably not the factory look that your chasing.

    Because you know your way around an engine I would like to hear your input on this thread I have:



    Lastly who did the welding on your rollcage?
    My website: SQ Engineering - 4AGE and 3SGE upgrade/replacement parts

    - SQ Engineering on facebook -

    Please e-mail to contact me instead of sending a private message on here.

  5. #35
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    aaron and kieran from azcustom

  6. #36
    Moderator Sam-Q's Avatar
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    I asked because damn its so damn even and neat, a few years experience behind him I am guessing
    My website: SQ Engineering - 4AGE and 3SGE upgrade/replacement parts

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    Please e-mail to contact me instead of sending a private message on here.

  7. #37
    Veteran Jonny Rochester's Avatar
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    I have made the rear setup different to RS-Chita because I have a hole in the head and I don't use an adapter block. I use the AE86 water housing and nothing else. It is just the bare AE86 housing bolted to the bare head. No plate is inbetween them. The AE86 housing itself is 31mm thick, and sticks out a total of 35mm including the bolt heads. This makes little difference. Your setup may be lower profile, but I didn't have to make as many parts.


    You can see in the pic the 2AZ coil sitting in the head. The 1ZZ coil sits down flush without the rubber spacer/seal. I thought it was easier to just bolt them direct to the camcover. I am making this neater, will show soon. Yes, 4 jaw and live centre.



    Aaron Martin is the cage builder and he has done a few cages in Hobart now, including his own AE86. He has a regular job as a welder also which helps. The cage is not 100% finished. I am going to TIG weld some A-pillar braces on tomorrow. The quality won't realy be seen till it's done and painted. Keiren (klusio on here) and myself help out with the cages at times.

  8. #38
    Moderator Sam-Q's Avatar
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    what blocks the other hole in the back of the head on the left side?

    As for the 2AZ coil it looks to be a little high, do you think the seal will still do its job or is it just an optical illusion? I am interested in how your going to neaten it up. It should look really good when its done.

    Oh also any chance for a part number on the AZ coil, plug and pins?
    My website: SQ Engineering - 4AGE and 3SGE upgrade/replacement parts

    - SQ Engineering on facebook -

    Please e-mail to contact me instead of sending a private message on here.

  9. #39
    Veteran Jonny Rochester's Avatar
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    I do have a picture there if you click on the link. There is a thin alloy plate I made to block the other hole. It is totaly seperate, so I tapped a thread in the head to hold it.

    The 2AZ coil sits high, the rubber seal does not seal on the cam cover. I think the 1NZ coils sit even higher.

    1AZ-FE / 2AZ-FE coils:
    90919-02243
    -02244
    -02248

    1ZZ-FE coils:
    90919-02239

    They are probably expensive, so look on ebay. Even google the part numbers and you can find stuff. Don't be surprised if you get dirrected to (a real website).

    I think Automotive Service Solutions can get the plugs. They are the same plugs for either coils. Anthony would have both the plugs and the coils.

  10. #40
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    i got a quote of $170 per coil and plugs were about $30 extra trade price from toyota...

    on the other hand ant kellam hooked me up for about $300...

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