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Thread: Jonny's Levin GTV Twincam 20

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  1. #1
    Veteran Jonny Rochester's Avatar
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    Default Jonny's Levin GTV Twincam 20

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    This is my AE86 as I got it a long time ago. Same as the rest of them. Early model SR spec.

    Very slow, very soft. But still went where your pointed it despite the body roll. I think if I was designing a new car, I would test it with rooted shocks and bushes and soft springs, and try and get the geometry right like that, just like a old AE86. Then I would know when I put good suspension in it, it would be awsome. Try my brothers SV21 with old suspension and engine mounts? Worst Toyota car ever.

    Of course, I am rebuilding the car from ground up. It has been disassembled down to every nut and bolt.

    My vision is to get it back together still looking exactly the same as in the top picture! I have old man tastes. But:
    1. it will be all GTV spec. Out with the SR spec stuff. Mostly using Toyota parts new and old. Avoiding custom stuff.
    2. but with a 20valve. As neat and factory like as I can.
    3. with street/track suspension and brakes of course
    4. and with minimum safety equipment for a possible CAMS event like Targa or something. So rollcage and stripped out interia.

  2. #2
    Veteran Jonny Rochester's Avatar
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    So I have the bare shell. All sound deadening removed ages ago. You know the drill. I removed un-used brackets.

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    Gave it a good clean all over. Removed some paint and tar with petrol or carby cleaner, or wax and grease remover.

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    Used both a MIG and TIG to stitch weld most of the shell inside and out. Made a mess with the welders, but it will be sorted shortly. Shell is presision aligned due to the use a 4 jack stands of different brands.

  3. #3
    Veteran Jonny Rochester's Avatar
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    The motor will be N/A. Hopefully the shell will last longer than the motor, so I can rebuild it to again rev as hard as I plan to the first time.

    I will use a 4A-GE from AE101. Mostly standard for now. Now for my very simple RWD conversion! Reading this Sam?

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    Nothing new here. Just a cover.

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    I made a hole in the head. I removed the web in the head and avoided the need for a external channel. Oh dear, I can never use this in FWD again! I used a drill bit with a long extension I made. And a chissel and hammer.

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    This is a stock AE86-4AG part# 11181-16030. I got it new. The two sensors are the EFI water temp sensor, and the start-time sensor used for the cold start injector. I only need the EFI temp sensor of course.

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    And it so happens it almost fits the 20valve in a similar location. The holes will need to be drilled 1mm bigger at the most, but it fits! On the 16v this water bracket bolts to the centre of the head, with the 20v it is to the right. This leaves only 1 other hole to be blocked, and I can easliy make a plate for that. I may cut the steel pipe shorter, as I don't need the small fitting anyhow edit: or use a AE82 item.

    The RS-Chita kit uses the same water fitting, only they have it located more centraly on another plate so it acts as a channel as well.



    And this is the finished result. The most low profile and cleanest 20v RWD conversion yet? I just used the AE86 water block, with the tube cut shorter. (I could have used a AE82 one, or the AE92 one would even fit). The EFI temp sensor is in place. And the standard AE86 gauge-temp sensor is the same thread size as the old start-time switch, so it just screws in! (with a drop of silicon to ensure it seals). A small hole is tapped into the head to hold the new plate I made.

    Very simple, except you do have to drill out the web in the head a fair bit.
    Last edited by Jonny Rochester; 20th February 2009 at 12:01 AM.

  4. #4
    Moderator Sam-Q's Avatar
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    I assume that was aimed at me, I can see why you would want to do it this way as it looks original however this is not new. This is basicly an RS Chita concept copy, its something I put into my new unreleased cooling guide like 6 months ago. Also your rear backing plate uses the stock ae92 outlet that by memory is 27mm thick, that combined with the plate to block the other port and you have something that sticks out over 30mm. The rear bypass plate I make when fitted with counter-bored holes uses up 25mm all up. So I think having a big block of aluminium for a bypass pipe may not be the toyota would do it but I think its hard to beat in how low a profile it is.

    Anyway enough bitching, as Slydar has said I want to see what you have planned for your top front water outlet and your bypass pipe.

    Thanks for the info on the coils, a quick one how much longer are the 2AZ coils over the 1ZZ coils? I am going to put a wanted add for some.

    The 1zz coils do like very nice on your engine but why not bolt them all to a plate which then bolts to the two blind threaded holes in the cam cover valley?

    How did you machine the coils? by using a 4 jaw chuck and live center?

    I particually like your work on a lathe from the coils, the vvt plug and the oil fitting, very nice work indeed.

    For the rear water pump housing rear pipe you could chop and change the angle of it to clear the knock sensor like I did or you could do something else I am working on which is to make a flanged to suit the back of the water pump, fit a 5/8" barbed outlet into the flange and just extend the heater hose, however its probably not the factory look that your chasing.

    Because you know your way around an engine I would like to hear your input on this thread I have:



    Lastly who did the welding on your rollcage?
    My website: SQ Engineering - 4AGE and 3SGE upgrade/replacement parts

    - SQ Engineering on facebook -

    Please e-mail to contact me instead of sending a private message on here.

  5. #5
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    aaron and kieran from azcustom

  6. #6
    Veteran Jonny Rochester's Avatar
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    I have made the rear setup different to RS-Chita because I have a hole in the head and I don't use an adapter block. I use the AE86 water housing and nothing else. It is just the bare AE86 housing bolted to the bare head. No plate is inbetween them. The AE86 housing itself is 31mm thick, and sticks out a total of 35mm including the bolt heads. This makes little difference. Your setup may be lower profile, but I didn't have to make as many parts.


    You can see in the pic the 2AZ coil sitting in the head. The 1ZZ coil sits down flush without the rubber spacer/seal. I thought it was easier to just bolt them direct to the camcover. I am making this neater, will show soon. Yes, 4 jaw and live centre.



    Aaron Martin is the cage builder and he has done a few cages in Hobart now, including his own AE86. He has a regular job as a welder also which helps. The cage is not 100% finished. I am going to TIG weld some A-pillar braces on tomorrow. The quality won't realy be seen till it's done and painted. Keiren (klusio on here) and myself help out with the cages at times.

  7. #7
    Veteran Jonny Rochester's Avatar
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    Here I have a host of expensive genuine Toyota bits that I need to do the 20v to RWD conversion right. Most just AE86-4AG parts.

    12511-16011 Alternator cast bracket
    16381-16010 alternator top bracket
    16100-19095 waterpump
    16323-16020 thermostate housing
    16371-16021 waterpump pulley

    Alternator itself is the AE101 one that came with the motor. Belt is 5PK835. I machined the extra belt drive off the crank pulley. I will use the stock AE86 viscous clutch fan. Dipstick is the 4A-C one.

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    The old 4A-C heater tube is shown. It blocks the use of a knock sensor. I may cut the tube short. I still need to make the top water fitting, which will have a little water bypass in it.
    Last edited by Jonny Rochester; 29th January 2009 at 11:37 PM.

  8. #8
    Veteran Jonny Rochester's Avatar
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    I made a nylon cover on the lathe, sold it, then made another. The second time I cheated and didn't make the wings to save time.

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    This is a 1AZ-FE / 2AZ-FE coil. The main body of it needs to be machined lightly on a lathe for it to fit the narrow 20v plug tube. You would need to make some sort of bracket at the top. I have since decided on 1ZZ-FE coils, which are a little shorter.
    Last edited by Jonny Rochester; 25th January 2009 at 12:42 AM.

  9. #9
    Veteran Wally's Avatar
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    Jonny the god of information!

    Will be looking forward to watching this thread!
    1984 JDM Zenki Trueno GT-Apex Hatch
    4AGE 16V
    +Quads, HKS 264 cams, Microtech LT10s, TRD gearset gearbox, TRD2WAY LSD, fun!

    FOR SALE: JDM 4AG PACKAGE+ITEMS (ENGINE/GBOX/EXHAUST/ECU/SHIT)

    http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/fo...ad.php?p=15205

  10. #10
    Veteran shift_rook's Avatar
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    that's some handy info, gee you're clever. i'm sure this is going to be a top build

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