Reply With QuoteCalipers on the correct side? Bleeder valve needs to be at the top.
brakes feel wierd.
I have just replaced my ADM MC&booster with JDM items and got two copper lines off the MC, along with JDM calipers,disc. and also new rear shoes & wheel cylinders.
i have just bled all four corners. took it around the block and the pedal has nothing for about 2-3cm the goes hard. and the brakes bite.
when you press the brake pedal...you feel/hear the booster whoosh, but its rather soft...then the pedal goes hard. the car pulls up, but i'm not sure how good they are though.
mixing copper lines with steel won't matter will it?
anyone got any ideas?
Ade Mc
Calipers on the correct side? Bleeder valve needs to be at the top.
yeah should be, the bleeders are at the top, to the front.
Were the brakes bled properly?
I've used those supposedly one man bleeder hose and valve and had pretty average results, with spongy brakes. The best way is definitely with two people or a vacumn pump bleeder.
The problem with the one man bleeder is that when you let go of the pedal, even though the bleeder hose/valve stops air from being sucked back up, air can still travel through the threads from the loosened brake bleed nipple.
Best way is to have two people, one pushing slowly down on the pedal and the other closing off the bleed nipple BEFORE releasing the brake pedal. Also, try to avoid pushing the pedal hard up against the floor, as it can damage the master cylinder.
I think all the brake lines are steel, not copper.
There was no need to change to JDM booster and MC, as they are essensially the same. Maybe the JDM master cylinder is no good, assuming it's all blead right.
Rear brake shoes and handbrake operation needs to be adjusted also, otherwise you get the brake pedal movement you talk of.
i have adjusted the rear brakes and hand brake. so i don't know if they are the cause of the pedal movement. And i changed the master and booster because my MC was shot. and because i couldn't get the lines off the old MC i got new lines from the master to the distribution valve thingo (which are copper). i wasn't to impressed with the one man bleeder kit either. twice the ends popped off. i will re-bleed the system with a mate tomorrow and see how i go.
copper is not rated for brake/clutch lines. There is a standard that you can buy but ive never seen anyone sell it.
If your bleeding brakes on your own, grab a pole and get it top hold the peddal down to the floor, that way no air can get in.
It would be copper coated steel tube.
the lines on the top are the old steel ones.
the ones on the bottom are the new copper ones i bought from
Sydney clutch and brakes in waterloo. had to bend them up myself.
wasn't difficult.
and a pic of my mate thats gonna help my bleed the brakes.
Had exactly the same problem after I bled the brakes in my first AE71... Turned out that although they worked fine before I pulled everything out to do an engine swap when I bled it all it fucked out the seals in the master cylinder.
Had exactly the same symptoms, little to no feel untill you were close to the floor, at which point the car would pull up fine.
Check for leaking fluid.
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