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Thread: Front disc/bearing change

  1. #1
    Veteran timbo's Avatar
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    Default Front disc/bearing change

    Ok, I have just replaced by front bearings and disc's and thought that a wrtie up might be helpful to some. It's not overly difficult just a little time consuming.

    Firstly, get your tool together:

    flat-head screw driver
    mallet
    22mm spanner
    10mm 17mm sockets
    pliers

    rattle gun or super buff mate



    now if you can't get this far, stop now!



    grab your 12mm socket and undo the bolt on the bottom of the calliper.




    swing the calliper up and slide off and rest somewhere, it is important that you don't let it hang off the brake line!



    now grab your 17mm socket and undo the two bolts, top and bottom, on the pad bracket.



    it should come off and look like this. at this stage you can replace your pads if need be.



    getting the hub off the stub axle. use the screw driver and mallet and gently tap around the cap and work it off.



    use the pliers to bend the split pin straight and pull it out.




    take the retainer off and remove excess grease.



    use the 22mm spanner and loosen the nut. it shouldn't be very tight.



    take off the washer...



    now carefully take out the outer bearing. (note these are new).



    gently work the hub off the axle, it might be a little hard but just spin it around and slowly pull... bingo!



    now this is the part where you would change your bearings. i got bearing kits from repco at $30 side. they come with instructions and i recommend that you follow them. expect some hard work getting the races out of the hub!



    grab your rattle gun (oh yeah, you're going to need it these fkn bolts are tight!).



    now grab a beer and give yourself a pat on the back, you made it this far!



    grab your new disc's and clean off the anti-rust protector.



    line up the holes and start of the screws. remember to tighten in a star pattern.



    now just do all the same steps in reverse, re-grease everything and you have saved yourself some coin!


    i hope this is easy to understand and gives you an idea on changing your disc's and bearings. special thanks to marco for the rattle gun and greg from GSL rally sports for the discs and pads.

    as noted by the wise men below i forgot to talk about tightening the nut up. it is important that you do not over tighten it. if you have a torque wrench it is probably a good idea to use it and tighten to toyota specs. i simply tightened it until it "binds" then back off a tiny bit. the wheel should be able to spun by hand with some resistance.
    Last edited by timbo; 21st March 2010 at 01:11 AM. Reason: terminology and more information

  2. #2
    Veteran slide86's Avatar
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    good write up, but it should be mentioned as how to adjust the bearing pre-load..

    alot of people might be under the impression that doing the nut up super tight is the way to go.........

  3. #3
    Senior Member Dylan's Avatar
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    Great article, I highly recommend these to drive the new bearing races in

  4. #4
    Senior Member Dazzla86's Avatar
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    do the bearings up till it binds an then back off a tiny amount. tapered roller bearings need a little bit of preload or you will have floppy wheel syndrome.

    when spun by hand slight resistance should be felt after you have preloaded it...

  5. #5
    Veteran timbo's Avatar
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    hey thanks for the replies guys and advice, really important and feel very slack for leaving it out!

  6. #6
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    good write up.
    Only things i have to say is i managed it easily without a rattle gun. The trick is to sit your rim out side down on the ground, drop the hub and disc into the holes for the studs just like your putting the rim on the car. Then kneel on the rim while you undo the nuts. They are probably easier to get undone than the caliper bracket bolts!

    AND! when you pulling the races out if you attack it from the right side and clean out some of the grease you should find a couple of reasonably big slots or channels in the hub. Stick a punch ( or screw driver if you don't own any punches) down the channel and just tab it with a hammer till they drop out.
    The guy who was helping me said that the channels/slots were way bigger than on his commodore or 4wd so it was way easier than normal!
    Launceston = Home of the surprise sodomist!!

  7. #7
    Moderator Sam-Q's Avatar
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    did you use a pin punch to remove the insert in the hub?

  8. #8
    Veteran timbo's Avatar
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    as cerby86 said, i knocked them out with a flat head using the two grooves inside the hub. i didn't want to go into alot of detail with the bearings as i think following the instructions they come with is better advice. however the bolts on the disc were not going to come off without a rattle gun, but i guess it's not the same for everyone. it is also important to pack the bearings with grease.

  9. #9
    Moderator Sam-Q's Avatar
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    ah fair enough, I would of thought that a screwdriver wouldn't be enough but happy to be proven wrong. I need to do this soon on my own car.

  10. #10
    Veteran timbo's Avatar
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    hehe where there's a will there's a way! the trick is to work evenly on each side as not to wedge it in. getting the new ones in i simply used a mallet and the old races and again worked my way around so that you dont get the old inner bearing stuck on top of the new one.

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