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Thread: All about welders and welding

  1. #61
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    Yeah, aluminium wire seems to be quite touchy. You can get a few different grade wire spools though, which vary in how soft they are. The hard wire seems to go ok in a machine which isnt setup so well. But for the softer wire youd want either a proper push-pull gun or a nice short lead with a good condition plastic liner.

    Getting hot tacks on aluminium, I find, is similar learning to TIG weld aluminium. You need to get the right balance between being hot enough, but quick enough to not burn through it. While still trying to not get burn backs and clogging the tip (which will probably happen 50% of the time on an average machine)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sam-Q View Post
    I think if you know what your doing you could do some decent stainless cooler piping with arc/mmc, I would give it a go.
    You sure can do it, but almost definatly the result of the weld will be at a much lower quality. Couldn't hurt to practice on scrap, or get a feeling of both types.. Then deciding on which to use.
    I'd just get used to the tig and use that. Garunteed penetration for the best weld almost garunteed.

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    I have to disagree with you there jet, if done right I see no reason why a arc weld could not be structually as good as a tig for something as simple as a 1.6mm thick pipe butt weld. Stainless is very nice to weld with an electrode and with the right current good penetration is a certainty. All that said it's not something I would readily recommend. I have an unopened 316 grade electrode grade pack, I should weld a bit of pipe with my untrained hands to show what I mean.
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    I agree with Sam-Q.

    Stick welding is probably one of easier ways to get better penetration, the problem is getting used to controlling it on the verge of blowing a hole.

    Speaking of stick welding too, I have no gas for my TIG at the moment, so Ive been tacking my whole front end with the stick. I bought a pack of supercheap brand electrodes (pack of 25 for 7 bucks), theyre one of the nicer electrodes Ive used. Ive been stitching 3mm steel to 1.6mm sheet, no holes blown yet. For some reason theyre just really smooth and are super easy to start.

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    also I better mention it makes a massive difference between a traditional an electronic arc welder. The old iron core will just want to stick every time
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    i want to get a arc welder ,just to learn and stuff, i have no real experience,what sorta stuff and numbers should i look for?
    i want to learn to weld exhaust material and like sheet steel for like rust repair,front guards on to rears just the sorta car stuff to start with and what ever else.
    need a welder,rods and mask, any help appreciated

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    Buy a MIG....

    Lincoln SP170T / Tradetools SK175 (170amp)

    Get one with Gas.

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    I agree with Nick, a gas sheilded mig is unbeatable for welding holes up and fixing rusty bits
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    thanks for that guys,what sorta rough prices are we looking at for the couple nick mentioned?gona have a look
    around tomorrow

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    Pricing from my memory only

    Lincoln SP170T = ~$1250+gas

    Tradetools SK175 = ~$728 +gas
    (copy of Lincoln SP170T and just as good)

    You'll do about 8mm thick steel with a 170 amp machine.

    Both can be setup with 0.6mm wire for panel work and then be swapped out to 0.8, 0.9, 1.0mm etc for thicker stuff.

    You'll pay less for gas wire because it doesn't have shitty resin inside it.

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