i am planning on using a 2s bellhousing with mine, the oil drain still fits pretty easily, just needs to come out and around the starter.
well unless you move the oil drain right?
but yeah so far so good in my research: 2S flywheel + clutch + sump + pickup + borg warner on a 5SFE which should be in my hands shortly. A completely bolt on job from what I have looking into so far.
Also this is for a daily and I know it's only a 5S but should work great for my KE70 wagon.
Fair enough. I just dont understand why anyone building a track car wouldn't want to move the clutch slave, hose and starter away from the exhaust. Even if only to make the job of fitting a decent exh system easier, let alone the immense increase in reliability. Anyway, Im sick of saying it.
copied from Rollaclub from the member nomis:
Got some dimensions for people, seeking guidance if this is possible to drop in their car..
This is all measured roughly but can't be 100% accurate but its to the best of my ability.
Widest point of the motor including intake manifold and exhaust manifold
- width 715mm
Bell housing measurements
- width 370mm
- length 260mm
Gearbox measurements -
- width 190mm
- length 585mm
- length including bell housing - 845mm
overall length including gearbox
Now in other news I had the oppertunity to machine down a Y bellhousing and see how it fitted, it really doesnt look hard at all to convert. Machinging the bellhousing will mean a starter motor spacer is neded but that's no big deal.
what do you have to machine down exactly? I used a 3Y bell, took a 20V starter, cut one ear off and tigged it back on 30 degrees or so further around the (putting the mounting lugs in a shallow Vee rather than in line as per the 20V). Bolted it up and its working fine to this day. A nice compact, reliable yet serviceable (20V starters usually go in the scrap bin), reduction type starter.
In my eyes just something working isnt reason enough to do it when solutions that are far better are easily available. I mean, toyota put the 4AGE slave on the drivers side, yet hundreds of ADM/SR5 swaps have proven that this isn't a huge deal. Despite that, if I was building a race car for 10, 20 maybe 30 grand, I'd be building it to be as reliable as possible in every way, given how many things will come up that you didnt think of. Following from the 4AGE example, I think you would be absolutely crazy not to pay the $150 and grab a JDM bell. The same logic applies here, just with nearly twice the power and half the room - even moreso If even just to have easier access to the slave. You need cars to be reliable, but to also be rapidly serviceable should things go wrong. And they do. Slave cylinders and starter motors are right up on the list of what can go wrong at the track too. I would strongly suggest having them cool, and accessible.
you make good points and I agree with you.
I have machined down both sides of the bellhousing close to 8mm in total by memory. I have seen this once before to avoid the use of the double row spigot or an extender, but in this case the gearbox splines where not long enough to allow his twin plate clutch to work. So he took care of 2 problems at once.
link g4 ecu can run both cams vvti no problems my mate has one in his trueno notch with black top quads and six speed
he cleans up nissans in the drift south series with it
Is there much of a size difference between the W-5* and the altezza box, as in room in tunnel wise / shifter position exc?