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Thread: Universal 3sge (inc Beams) into AE/KE thread

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    Default Universal 3sge (inc Beams) into AE/KE thread


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    The purpose of this thread is to put together all the knowledge of doing a 3SGE Beams conversion in one place. I have coppied many threads into this from more than one source so it at times might not match so well.

    To show who originally made the post I have copied the avatar and username of each person at the top of each post with their username clickable to see their profile.

    Anyone who wishes to have a copy of their post removed let me know.



    Link to information on clutches and flywheels for 3S engines:

    http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/fo...read.php/21018


    Beams rebuild (Toymods)

    http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/sho...d.php?t=64659"


    Links to various 3SGE BEAMS engine worklogs/buildups:


    Bill Sherwood's RHD AE86 + auto gearbox

    Hachi Go- aeu86.org: RHD AE85 + 6 speed
    Last edited by Sam-Q; 1st March 2012 at 11:37 PM.
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    Prime86

    First of all awsome choice of engine to fit to an 86. These engines are one of the tuffest N/A motors around and can produce some serious power for a 2 litre engine. I was toying with the idea myself but because of the High comp setup its best to do work to the motor before bolting a turbo on the side or you will have problems when pumping boost into it, any more than about 4psi. They run 11.5.1 compression ratio and this is way to high for a turbo engine. I would put a set of pistons that Toda make and drop it to like 9.5.1 and a set of rods to make it reliabe and be able to put 20+ psi in it with big power gains. Beu Yates trd AE86 is on youtube which is fitted with a Beams 3sge turbo engine. Hypertune make an awsome intake manifold for the beams turbo engine but you will pay for it.
    Last edited by Sam-Q; 28th June 2010 at 08:52 PM.
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    sun_moon

    4age = slow and boring.

    beams or turbo 4age imho. both proberly cost a similar amount to do PROPERLY.

    but then again, doing things right the first time is not something ae86 and ke70 owners USUALLY do. so im sure people will tell you "buy 100 dollar china manifold and run it on stock ecu its fine bro"

    research and do it properly the first time, it will save you in the long run.
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    Anthony

    Is it worth it? That is a very complex question. Comes down to so many factors. The beams setup may be 3k. But it will cost you 6k once in if you know a lot and can do a lot. Or 10-12k if you dont know so much. If you're posting this question here, I'm guessing 10-12k will be closer to the mark.
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    Delazy

    i can tell you that after a 8k ae111 7ag build and a yet tba az6 6 speed conversion, a beams 3sge sounds like a damn smart idea haha...

    the things we do :s
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    Andy San

    So is the oil pump contained to a seperate piece on the front of the engine? such as a 4age? or does it extend down into the big aluminium cast section on the lower part of the engine?

    Trying to work out how much space can be gained from making a dry sump pan for one of these, and if you can remove the whole aluminium cast section from the bottom or if you can only make a new sump pan to bolt to it that is more shallow.



    found this picture, which is off a 3sge, but im not sure which gen it is, as the sump castings from the earlier generations are different.

    i'm hoping this is off a beams, as it would make it much easier to fit into the engine bay, and hopefully solve my clearance issues that i can foresee happening.

    I mean sump clearance with ground, crossmember, but also the little extension on the front of the motors which comes very close to the swaybar, if you can get rid of all of that there is loads of room.
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    KE_70

    mod the tunnel possably so it sits back further? this is how im clearing the swaybar.
    how do jays mounts clear the crossmember? but this doesnt help ground clearence suppose you dont want to run a bash plate?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy San View Post
    if you can remove it altogether you will gain about 100mm of drop in the overall motor mounting position, which will make fitting everything a lot better.
    how does that oil pump thingy let the motor sit lower?
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    Anthony

    Yes you can lose both sections of the sump (alloy and steel) if you go dry sump. The oil pump is a separate unit on the front of the motor, driven by the timing belt, as they are on all "S" motors. Sam I wouldn't contemplate using a 2S setup. That's how you lose motors, especially for circuit work. The stock Beams setup is quite good, but if you really cant fit it go dry sump.
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    well it would be obvious that the engine can be lowered with a dry sump I just didn't know that's what he meant.

    So whats the issue with the S series sump, so a no goer eh?
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