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Thread: t50, push to pull..

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    Senior Member hilux05's Avatar
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    Default t50, push to pull..


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    hey peeps..

    i got a 4age+t50 thats going in my 25 an there is no way to fit a hydraulic setup (mc) in the bay. (well there is but mehhhh an i just cant be bothe....)

    so what im thinkin is to keep the cable setup, one way to do this is to convert the clutch fork from push to pull, (or the other way around) the opposite of what the slave does..

    so what im trying to ask is has anyone ever done this or is anyone actually running a cable setup on there t50??? picss???

    cheers.. Richie

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    Site Supporter Javal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hilux05 View Post
    hey peeps..

    i got a 4age+t50 thats going in my 25 an there is no way to fit a hydraulic setup (mc) in the bay. (well there is but mehhhh an i just cant be bothe....)

    so what im thinkin is to keep the cable setup, one way to do this is to convert the clutch fork from push to pull, (or the other way around) the opposite of what the slave does..

    so what im trying to ask is has anyone ever done this or is anyone actually running a cable setup on there t50??? picss???

    cheers.. Richie
    I highly doubt this has been done before. A simpler route to take if you're lazy is to source an AE85 K-50. Cable clutch but bolts to an A motor.

    But, if it were me, i'd just convert the damn thing.

    What's stopping you?
    You can have any brew you want... as long as it's a Datsun / Corolla / What is that?

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    Senior Member hilux05's Avatar
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    short answer.... laziness

    nothing really.. i have all the parts. (stripped 71) it just the size of the bay.... the clutch mc will nearly hit the back of the head cause its almost in the middle of the bay and also and mainly the pedal arrangement.. its pretty ghey but there are ways around it..

    im also thinking in cabin mc but still really hard to maintain..

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    Site Supporter Javal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hilux05 View Post
    short answer.... laziness

    nothing really.. i have all the parts. (stripped 71) it just the size of the bay.... the clutch mc will nearly hit the back of the head cause its almost in the middle of the bay and also and mainly the pedal arrangement.. its pretty ghey but there are ways around it..

    im also thinking in cabin mc but still really hard to maintain..
    1 - Modify pedalbox + pedal to move the pivot and pushrod mount hole further towards the outside of the vehicle while retaining the same pedal location at the bottom.

    2 - Move master cyl outwards and make lines to suit

    3 - ????

    4 - Profit.
    You can have any brew you want... as long as it's a Datsun / Corolla / What is that?

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    Slyder had one from the ae85 try pming him

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    With a KE35, it is not too hard to change from cable to hydraulic, and arrive at a setup similar or identical to the TE3# vehicles.

    But the KE25 is a bastard in this regard. There existed the TE27 of course, with hydraulic clutch. But the firewall and pedal arrangement was all different. If you can think of a solution, I can bet that it's been done before, only maybe it wasn't very nice.

    Here is what I did:





    The brake master was left in the KE25 position. Only I made an adapter to use a HiLux master.

    The clutch pedal is on a rod that goes through the pedal box, and operates the cable on the right side of the brake master. I cut the lever off that rod, welded an extension onto the rod, and welded my own lever onto it in a different position. I drilled holes in the firewall and used a generic Toyota slave cyl (off a Camry or something).

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    bloodly hell Jonny!

    that must of been a nightmare to set up.


    ... have you thought about using banjo fittings for your hyraulic brake lines?
    My website: SQ Engineering - 4AGE and 3SGE upgrade/replacement parts

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    Please e-mail to contact me instead of sending a private message on here.

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    The engine bay is a mess in some areas. Most of the drama was from the owner using a 3S-GE, and mounting the engine further back, and cutting the fire wall. Sort of against my advice. But we still had to make everything work, and it sort of does.

    VH44 booster uses a different thread to the toyota fittings. Probably not my ideal way of doing it. But everything had a trickle on effect from the customer cutting the firewall, and keeping the rear water fittings on the 3S-GE.

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    Senior Member hilux05's Avatar
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    ahh thats rob's 25, yes?? such a beast...

    any chance you got/can get some pics of the clutch arangement from the inside?? i have an idea how to do it the way you did, just want to see how far off i am..
    did you flip the little cable holder so it points down instead, so when you push the pedal it pushes instead of pulling??

    its either that or bring the whole pedal box over 100-150mm to the right..not really what i want to do..

    an while were on the subject of robs 25, any chance on some info on his r&p conversion??
    Last edited by hilux05; 3rd February 2009 at 05:47 PM. Reason: 2+2 is 4

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    No inside photo right now sorry. I did have the plate on the shaft pointing down, not up. I think it was some 6mm plate welded to the end of the shaft.

    Rob mostly did the rack and pinion conversion himself. He used all KE70 stuff and made it work. A fair bit of cutting, welding etc was done. I think the whole rack housing was narrowed a bit. A fair bit of measuring and sorting out was needed to get rid of the bump steer.

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