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Thread: R32 Brake master

  1. #11
    Senior Member 45aken's Avatar
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    any insight?
    distribution issues like having to split the front brakes or distribution issues like rears locking up?
    btw im running s13 sr20det brakes up front

  2. #12
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    i run the 2 port r32 BM and use the factory brake bias adjuster.. just bent my ae86 lines to suit front and rear...I was assume the r32 needed a bias adjuster still had no idea it was built in ??? My brakes work well so i dunno now.. But the rears locked up abit at wakefield

  3. #13
    Senior Member FLCL's Avatar
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    my s14 bmc plus booster. only issue i had was squeezing the booster in beside the clutch master. they press on each other. bending lines was easy, just make sure not to kink when bending. I did however encounter the issue of 1 line not reaching so i swapped the 2 front brake lines over to get them to reach.

    bias has been fine for me as i run mazda 4 pots up front. having run skyline bmc's in my silvias the issue of rears locking would be common as skylines run a 2 pot rear caliper. a solution to this can be to run a different brake pad set on the rear. something less bitey and/or fades a little easier when your brakes heat up.

    as for 2 port. i was running a r33 gtr bmc on a s13 for a while. sadly gtr's being abs come only as a 2 port. so all i did was run a splitter from the front port. my left hand side would lock up before the right but would not pull the car over to 1 side when skidding.

  4. #14
    Veteran driftke70's Avatar
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    i run a celica st205 gt4 master, it fits pretty good

    wheelfriends.wordpress.com

  5. #15
    Senior Member Medwin_3sGTE_AE86's Avatar
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    I too run the R32 2-port master into the standard AE86 bias valve, and have single piston s6 RX7 rear calipers and 4-pot AP racings on the front, and works well. Have only recently installed an in-line adjuster to the rear line, yet to trial it. I also run the (SR20, as the CA18 item is different and doesnt fit!) S13 booster and is as easy a bolt in affair (even the input into the booster lines up with the pedal hole!) as you'll ever find.


  6. #16
    Veteran driftke70's Avatar
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    dont forget if you run drums rear you have to have a drum booster
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  7. #17
    Senior Member 45aken's Avatar
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    what advantages are there in running the s13 booster over a standard setup?

  8. #18
    Veteran Jonny Rochester's Avatar
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    Sorry, I can't see any logic in that.

  9. #19
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    Okay i may as well hijack this thread, just cause i think it belongs

    I'll be running the ol' FC caliper front setup, with F-series (tarago) drums on the back

    What master? And can i remove the brake bias adjuster and just run the lines going to their associated places (preferable, as i'm trying to make things as neat as possible in my engine bay)?

  10. #20
    Veteran driftke70's Avatar
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    because drum brakes don’t use callipers and are therefore not self-adjusting there are springs installed to retract the brake shoes away from the drum. A 10 PSI residual pressure valve is used in drum brakes to keep a little pressure in the lines to balance the return-spring force so that the shoes are maintained in close proximity to the drums. Without the residual pressure valve, the return springs would retract the shoes so far from the drums that excessive pedal travel would be required before the brakes are applied.


    in some cars its in the mc, as far as i know most old toyotas have them in the booster
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