Welcome to Atlanta

[Gunner]

You do have a point in regards to metallurgy, it was found that aston or bently, actually produce blocks then have them naturally tempered by natural climate.

As for 3s crank in a 4a, 4a's are a tiny little motor, and a fair bit shorter than a 3s, but idea's are always good, as I am now going to look at the 3s for other parts, also a 7m is somewhat compatable with a 4a

[driftke70]

also for 11k wouldn't you want a crank to be as light as possible otherwise it probably wont even want to go that high,

in all honesty id rather have an engine that makes good power around 6 to 7.5 and doesn't mind hanging around 8, cause in the grand scheme of things, the cost vs benefit seems pretty off, never mind the effort vs benefit. 11k is a good talking point though

also those bmw blocks they were using, they apparently use to leave them out the back of the shop and pee on them routinely.

[Gunner]

well as i have said, if 200hp can be reached without having to go as high as 9000rpm, that where the engine will be driven, but I just want an 11,000rpm 4a

[driftke70]

if i were going for that sort of thing, id spent effort on a beams 3s and all the effort and cost you put it can be mounting it low and far back and making it scream a bit better. theres 200hp easy, some decent revs, ALOT easier and more reliable. More cost effective.
Or even if you started with a non beams 3s, just get some compression into it, some decent cams and quads, management and a little bottom end love and you will see upwards of 7500 and 200hp would you not?

[slydar]

what youre talking about beal is seasoning. used to be common practise for race engines. but now they have artificial ways of achieving the same thing.

also, with reference to older engine/crank combos and them being proven/working harmoniously. you dont really need to worry about that with a 4a. its written on the block if its a good one or a shit one.

at the base of the block where the bell housing bolts there are numbers. the 5 in a row on one side, 4 on the other. the 5 are for the main tunnel, and the 4 are for the bores.

1 is the best (closest to tolerance) 3 is the worst you will see.

my current engine is straight 2's with maybe 1 1 for the bores. from what ive seen, thats actually quite good

[driftke70]

i heard all 1s were designated to motor sport, i have seen with my own eyes a 1 1 1 2

[Gunner]

I've never actually heard that.

[shinobi]

Just have to grit you teeth and buy a toda or techarts crank if you really wanna do it dude..

[Jonny Rochester]

Gunner: I think the problem is, that you plan to assemble a heap of parts, and build 1 single engine that will be awsome. But the truth is, anyone that has a ex-Formula Atlantic engine or a 11,000rpm engine does not just have 1 engine. They have at least 5 engines in parts. They have 1 good motor in their car, then they have an identical long motor sitting on the floor ready to go, and another 4 or so engines in parts ready to be machined to specs if needed.

I know that with your job, a standard 4A-GE is a cheap and disposable item, and you probably have many. Lets say we destructive test 3 of them. (Most parts will be salvageable). Rev one to failure. See what happened. Fix it with a better item (conrods). Slap it back together, rev to failure. Maybe you need stiff valve springs or whatever. Good conrods. Standard crank. Light flywheel. Put some big cams in there. Slap it back together and rev to failure. It won't cost you much, no compared to building an awesome motor later on.

Do this, with pics of every failure, and this will be the most popular thread I promise!

[Low Style]

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