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Thread: Wakarimasen

  1. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adsie View Post
    The oil pump I am using is one that came off a silvertop I had at home and the tensioner as well. I did notice when looking at this website http://www.billzilla.org/4agmods3.htm it has the bigport internals although it says it can vary so I didn't worry about it. So now thinking it was a bigport oil pump since the belt won't fit, will get some photos as there must be differences externally as well then.
    My understanding is whether its a smallport/bigport or ae101 20v oilpump/tensioner it shouldnt matter..

  • #92
    Senior Member Adsie's Avatar
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    No idea if they are the same. I ended up sorting mine out by using a timing belt off a Peugeot 205. Its 114 teeth (1 more then 16V) and has the same teeth shape and spacing. The only problem is its onlyl 17mm wide instead of 19mm. So if you find you have the same problem I did you could use this belt.

  • #93
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    Quoting directly from BAZDA: "Tensioner use a 16v one, oil pump 16v or 20v silvertop. With the 20v just a 16v timing belt."

    Although i will definitely keep that in mind Adsie (thanks in advance!!), as Oly86 has also had a problem with this setup (but with a 7AFE oil pump).



    Oh and on topic, all my stuff to make headers has arrived (win!), my 6-speed will be reassembled by the end of the week (mega win!) .. i'm now only waiting on a new burette to CC the head, then i can put it all together.
    4AGE & 7AGE Forged Connecting Rods - Lightweight Flywheels - And Much More



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  • #94
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    Okay, 56k users have probably crashed by now, but if not .. please leave this thread. I like pictures more than text, just because they explain everyyyything a little bit better. Here's about 18,000 words worth..


    On thursday evening, a good friend of mine (elliot) called me up and decided that it was a good time to put the motor together. I agreed - apparently he was just coming to watch and make sure i didn't forget anything - but was eventually roped into doing alot more - slave labour is great. There are quite a few steps here we didn't photograph, probably because we were concentrating too much - but these snaps should give you some idea.



    After cleaning and painting the block, no.1 and no.5 main bearings were installed and lightly lubed.



    A dial indicator (a measuring device that is VERY sensitive to the slightest movement) was setup on the block, and measured the 'crank runout' (aka. is my crank bent?), thankfully everything was well within spec.



    The same wonderful device was also setup inside the crank to measure the thrust clearance. Most people would just do this with a feeler gauge (which is more than sufficient) .. but we had the 'right' tool handy, so we used it.



    Each point of measurement on the gauge = 0.001"



    After checking all the main bearing clearances (not shown), the main and thrust bearings were all lubed with equal parts of redline assembly lube, and elliots blood - no joke, he got pwned, blocks are suprisingly sharp!



    Oil on the thread of the bolts and under the head, and torqued to spec.



    Using a piston to push a piston ring down the bore (this makes the piston ring perfectly square in the bore)



    Measuring the piston ring gap. Weirdly, the piston rings supplied to me were almost perfect. Little (if any) filing required. So strange.



    The first JWorks rod in all its' glory. No, it isn't really THAT chunky, my hands are just similarly sized to a toddler/young girl.



    We used a (long) breaker bar taped to the engine stand to keep the crank perfectly stable - important when double checking clearances with plasticgauge.



    Honestly, the best damn ring-compressor i've ever used. The only downside? Can only be used for 81-84mm bores - so basically only 4AGE/7AGE .. although in my case that's not really a problem



    Tappy tappy tappy.



    The hektik (proper) way to do up rod bolts - rod bolt stretch gauge. Similar results can be had with a good torque gauge (and honestly, the amount of time mucking around with this gauge was ridiculous), but if you want the absolute best way to do it - stretch gauge is it.



    All assembled .. checking that it spins nicely without catching anything etc.. and it does



    And probably the only important picture - bottom end assembled, and wrapped, ready for oil/water pumps and head etc.





    That basically sums it up. Thanks for watching, and big thanks to elliot for his 8(?) hours of help on thursday arvo/evening.




    If everything goes well, i might be assembling and CC'ing the head/block this weekend. If anyone is in the paddo neighbourhood, feel free to pop around and talk crap.

    I am SO tired. Goodnight lovers.

    4AGE & 7AGE Forged Connecting Rods - Lightweight Flywheels - And Much More



    ^ Clicky clicky!

  • #95
    Veteran blake.'s Avatar
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    Nice work man. There's alot of effort being put in there.
    Quote Originally Posted by Gunner View Post
    Id explain more but there people on here I dont like, and i want to see this shit on thsir supposedly awesome masterfully built but stock power making 20v
    bursting ovaries since 92'

  • #96
    Gunner
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    Good stuff dude, the rods look real good.

    Just curious though, when you are putting pistons in, are you starting the skirt in the bore, or is the piston totally covered by the compressor? Not saying you don't know what you are doing, I know you do do

    But I only ever use the compressor on the crown of the piston, leaving the skirt exposed, and not in compression, I can liberally oil the skirt prior to sliding it into the bore that way, also means there is no chance of the piston cocking in the compressor and catching the skirt on the edge of the bore on the way in. I also like to tap the ring compressor down to the bore, that way its in 100% contact with bore.

    How do you do it?

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    Haha cheers guys Gunner - i undo the compressor a little bit, and push the piston in from the top of the compressor (to the piston is totally covered), then do up the compressor again. i have scribed a little mark on the compressor to tell me when i've got to the exact 81mm bore size .. but you can kinda feel when it doesn't want to do much more compressing haha. Then basically push down with my fingers until i can feel the piston aligning with the bore.

    Then STOP - hammer time.
    4AGE & 7AGE Forged Connecting Rods - Lightweight Flywheels - And Much More



    ^ Clicky clicky!

  • #98
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    top shelf as always.
    stroked 2L ca18-ae86 in the build...eta xmas 2012?

  • #99
    Gunner
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    Quote Originally Posted by 70XIN View Post
    Haha cheers guys Gunner - i undo the compressor a little bit, and push the piston in from the top of the compressor (to the piston is totally covered), then do up the compressor again. i have scribed a little mark on the compressor to tell me when i've got to the exact 81mm bore size .. but you can kinda feel when it doesn't want to do much more compressing haha. Then basically push down with my fingers until i can feel the piston aligning with the bore.

    Then STOP - hammer time.
    haha good shit. I suppose you wouldn't have to worry to much about the piston not being square in the compressor that way hmm.

  • #100
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    i just got rid of my morning glory, then i saw these pics and its back. very, very good work! gives me an idea of who to call on when i rebuild my smallport! if i wasn't working all weekend i would be around in a flash. keep up the top work blokes and maybe if you are still doing shit next weekend i will pop over with the version 2 levin.

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