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Thread: Wakarimasen

  1. #181
    User fantapants's Avatar
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    they dont move much from what i know.... my w58 on the beams the slave only moved a couple cm... clutch seemed to work fine ...
    RIP Carly - a smile to light the world.
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  2. #182
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    Okay, yep there's definitely movement during the "soft" area of the pedal (about 5mm), and then another 10mm once you press it to the floor. How much should this thing be moving?
    4AGE & 7AGE Forged Connecting Rods - Lightweight Flywheels - And Much More



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  3. #183
    Senior Member myke90's Avatar
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    I'm going to say you have either a bad master or slave happening dude - Story...clutch fork on my S13 GB would fall off the carrier and make the slave extend more to engage the clutch propperly. the slave will do everything it can to engage the clutch if it's got good pressure/no air in the line, even untill it pushes the piston out the end and fks itself like mine did

    if your's had no leaks it would look like it was maxing out completely to achieve the pedal feel you have - if it's extension looks kind of sad and weak i'd get a new master and slave...how old are the ones in it??

    the pivot ball position for the clutch fork hasn't changed has it??

    that conversion is sexy btw - makes me want a really clean ae86 trueno!! you have no idea haha

  4. #184
    Veteran lolwat's Avatar
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    i still rekon there's air in it, if its soft then gets harder (compressing air then fluid movement)

    build looks sick

  5. #185
    Glenn ke_70's Avatar
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    weather its related or not.
    but the 6sp in my car the clutch grabs right after the pedal moves. thats with the adjuster on the master/pedalbox all the way out.

    what slave are you using? j160 or t50?

    ive always thought that the altezza just had a longer stroke cylinder (and different mounting with fork and pedal)?
    but yours sounds like its bypassing if its really as light as you say.

    you can always put it in gear hold the clutch in and roll it back and forward to see if the clutch i enguaging.
    thats how i tested mine...

  6. #186
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    Hmmm *strokes chin* - i have plenty to think about.

    And ke_70, i am using standard T50 everything (slave, master, pivot, clutch fork, etc) - the only thing i had to modify was the spline on the clutch. I would do that test, but i don't have a driveshaft lol. And mike/myke, i have just replaced the clutch slave, and the master appears in good condition.

    I'm going to adjust the clutch pedal tomorrow and see how everything goes.
    4AGE & 7AGE Forged Connecting Rods - Lightweight Flywheels - And Much More



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  7. #187
    Veteran trikzlane's Avatar
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    you make me a happy man tox
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  8. #188
    Veteran Robo86's Avatar
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    this thread is USELESS without pics

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  9. #189
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    Haha thanks lovers and no pics at the moment, cause everything i've been working on is boring as HELL - i've finished off a little panel to mount my gauges (in place of where the cig lighter/ashtray/random air vent is), and also made a steel heater line (cause i needed it).

    Unfortunately, my welding mask keeps flashing me big time which is making me blind - so i've spent a KE70s worth on:



    So basically all i have to do now - rewire stuff, wire in gauges, make headers and extend the exhaust to the catback, fit throttles and fuel related BS, add fluids and skid.

    Shouldn't be too long now - all depends on how long my welding helmet takes to get here.
    4AGE & 7AGE Forged Connecting Rods - Lightweight Flywheels - And Much More



    ^ Clicky clicky!

  10. #190
    Glenn ke_70's Avatar
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    has this got the stroker crank/rods?

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