do 7a and never look back
MY AE86 BUILD
7A and i will have all your $a gear for my 4agte build we have to start on
yeah i'll look into 7A costs and shiznit then.
haha damn you jon
and yeah timbo, definitely making the most of the crappy US dollar! anything that i CAN buy from america, i probably will haha
onto some actual shit: started on the J160->4A conversion the other day.
First up, i needed a 4A block for alignment purposes. I will (have) stripped this block down, removing EVERYTHING except the main caps.
I will be getting a 50cm long tube machined (approx ~50mm thick) that will fit in place of the crankshaft, which then aligns with the bearing hole in the J160 (~75mm), with a small lip to keep things aligned in the .. other axis. As far as i can see, this is the most accurate way (within reason) of getting the alignment perfect. I'm sure the picture below will make absolutely NO sense, but somehow my machinist understood what i wanted.
I measured up both the bellhousings, and decided i only need to have 84mm of J160 bellhousing left. I measured 10cm up the bellhousing....
....And chopped the crap out of it. The machinist will be milling it down to the correct size, i was just making his job easier
I'll then be getting a 10mm thick chunk of alloy made approximately this shape. I've seen people use much thicker chunks of alloy, but since the bellhousing itself is only about 3mm thick, this should be sufficient.
I originally wanted to do my cut/shut EXACTLY the same way as the CBY mob, but unfortunately i have an IS200 J160, meaning the clutch fork is all on the wrong side (like ADM t50's YO). The way i'm doing it should also mean i won't have to space the clutch slave, and i can use ALL the standard AE86 hydraulics, including clutch line/slave/throwout/fork etc. At WORST i will only have to machine the T50 bearing carrier out a couple of mm to suit (i had to do this with my previous cars' W58 conversion), and maybe weld an extra bit of length to the rear to the carrier to stop it "falling off", but that's easy.
Also, i think a W55/57/58 mechanical speedo drive is exactly the same size as the J160 speedo, so i should just be able to remove the gear off the J160 drive, put it on the W5x drive, and the T50 speedo cable will bolt straight up My speedo is SO far out with 4.8's anyway that either way i will buy a CRD speedo corrector thingy once i work out the speedo difference.
BTW if my posts/thread has bored you, simply turn off your monitor and go play in traffic
holy shit that disc must rooted after that! good job though, this 6 speed gearbox conversion should be very interesting.
Okay yeah i'm doing a 7A. Bought a bottom end for $150 from my friendly wreckers, and a bunch of stuff from the states.
It's basically going to be forged rods, stock blacktop pistons, new everything else. Probably 12:1 compression ratio with a standard 20V head-gasket, maybe a little less. Hoping it will all run on stock ECU/shit. I'm also getting an offset-ground crank pulley from BAZDA in NZ so i can retain standard cam gears and VVT
Also just received the strut-brace from hell. Cost as much as a small yacht. Nagisa Auto, love it or hate it.
Win win win win.
Good to see your wise moves unfold Seamus.... those Nagisa Auto braces are staunchy
------------------>>>Need something welded locally??? Hit me up, I may just be able to help<<<------------------
BENT MECHANIX - Garage 20:
7A win! good luck dude! that box conversion looks like alot of fun aswell ! can't wait to see it come together!
I think you like grinders as much as i do! Mine's name is Justine! what's your grinders name?