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Thread: Wakarimasen

  1. #511
    Senior Member Prime86's Avatar
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    Brad
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    Nice work Seamus, looking forward to seeing this all come together.

    How did you go with the mounting kit for the motor, did you manage to get it low enough on the mounts or did you have to space the crossmember?

  2. #512
    Site Supporter Low Style's Avatar
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    I have nothing to do with taking your time away from your own build

  3. #513
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    Seamus
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    Okay, so those of you who aren't in the loop / don't read anything unless it has pictures - my 7A was purchased by a guy out west, so i needed to get something better(?) to replace it.

    First things first - i had to bend all the fuel lines to the other side of the car - because i'm not a big fan of fuel stuff being on the same side as exhaust stuff. This job sucked. Don't mind the massively dirty engine bay, i cleaned it eventually. The steering column was also extended.




    Next up, cut the crossmember up and rewelded it about 4cm lower. I kept the LCA position the same height (to retain happy suspension geometry), and i've moved the LCA mounting points 25mm further out in preparation for the spacers that will put my rack ends at the right height again.




    Engine mounts and gearbox crossmember both completed. Also, i'm using some engine rubbers from a V8 range rover or something - they were dirt cheap, big, but low-profile. Sorry the photos suck, i didn't finish until late o'clock.




    Before putting it all in, i fitted an HD clutch, a 4kg flywheel, and a J's racing low-temp thermostat. Exciting stuff.




    The few people that have done this swap (in the US/europe) usually cut the crap out of the tunnel - but i didn't want to molest my car, so i molested the bellhousing. It was unnecessarily large, so i cut / welded / replated the problem sections. Again, the photo sucks, but you should be able to see the two sections that were removed.




    Aaaaand mounted.




    I have managed to mount the motor really far back. I'll have to work out something for the heater tap and such, but i'm glad we got it so far back....




    ....and low. Centre of gravity should be rad. The sump will be close to the ground, but i welded some threaded bungs to the crossmember so i can make a decently strong bash plate. As far as i can see, the crossmember is still about the same height as the chassis rails, and the sump doesn't go as low as the crossmember, so should be good. I'll try and avoid ripple strips and rocks.




    I would like to thank my friend elliot for his help Everything is much easier/fun if you aren't doing it all yourself haha.
    4AGE & 7AGE Forged Connecting Rods - Lightweight Flywheels - And Much More



    ^ Clicky clicky!

  4. #514
    Junior Member
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    I wonder who's hand that is ^.^

  5. #515
    Veteran haveaparty's Avatar
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    Yes yes and yes. Almost as cool as mine :p

  6. #516
    Gunner
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    Mmmm i like it, especially keen to see the rack spacers. Top shit seamus

  7. #517
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    rhys spacers mate, get it right

    haha thanks guys
    4AGE & 7AGE Forged Connecting Rods - Lightweight Flywheels - And Much More



    ^ Clicky clicky!

  8. #518
    User fantapants's Avatar
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    good looking stuff mate!
    RIP Carly - a smile to light the world.
    06/07/2011

  9. #519
    Senior Member --Redwork--'s Avatar
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    Not worried about moving the rack down but keeping the lca same height..
    Won't that lead to some epic bump steer issues.

  10. #520
    Gunner
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    Thats what the magic rhys spacers are for haha.

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