It skids from what i've seen.
Updates or ban!
It skids from what i've seen.
Oh man, i haven't updated this in forever. Sorry guys - other commitments (eating coco pops) means i haven't been so active/haven't taken nearly enough photos. Anyway, the conversion is now "done", and it's first major drive at QR was a success. So YAY. Many thanks to all of those who helped, in one way or another
Anyway - some shiny stuff i made:
Headers (2" primaries, with a 3" collector and v-band) - the thing is HUGE. That shiny ceramic coating stuff actually works well, i was skeptical at first, but i'm definitely pleased.
Also managed to get my hands on some titanium tube. Because of where i wanted to run my airbox, i knew the intake pipe would be made up of pie cuts anyway .. sooooo kinda worked out sweet. Welding titanium is actually pretty easy - getting the colour (which is considered a "failure" in ti welding) was just a case of running a bad angle on the tig torch so that parts of it didn't have adequate gas flow. Making a nice gold weld the whole way around is easy, but it looked kinda boring haha.
And onto the finished product. Had to lengthen the throttle cable, relocate washer bottle to the other side, made a catch-can with a 2" filter (and a drain bung at the bottom for easy emptying), had to completely modify the radiator, new radiator stays, fuel filter and charcoal canister brackets, and probably countless other little things i can't see. Also made an airbox that houses an apexi pod filter - which gets air from one of the few vented areas on a trueno - just behind the headlight. I had the cam-covers repainted in a beautiful brown colour by BMW.
Closeup of the ti bend and radiator stuff. Anyone familiar with AE86 stuff will notice the radiator is actually back-to-front. I cut off the outlets, plated them, flipped the radiator 180 around and rewelded the outlets. I cut the top mounts off the the right hand side (pictured) so that i could weld on the upper outlet on an angle, to clear intake pipe and stuffs. The radiator has a single zirgo thermofan, and i welded a bung to the bottom of the radiator so that it could be controller with a 90 degree switch.
Also managed to wire up and neatly install the S2000 cluster. Looks cool as hell. Made a large shifter extension for the gearbox - the throw of the S2000 box is so short it's hard for me to tell what gear i'm going for haha. Extension makes it 11tybillion times easier.
Went to QR, did some skids, got bogged up to rear brakes on my first run. Awesome day, and the car went perfectly. Another successful conversion
Also, a quick video.
Jesus. I don't know how you have the time or money to knock these conversions over so quickly.
I hate to admit this, but that engine looks like it is home in that bay....
Work of art... I think it is the beard of awesomeness that helps with these conversions.
SO awesome!
Few questions, Why did you end up lowering the cross member?
Why didn't you move your battery and have the intake in there?
Much love. Thing sounds SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO GOOD.
You're going to cook those master cylinders too!
Thanks guys
Marvis:
I had 3 options to fit the motor/box:
The JSPfab way: Lower the entire crossmember 50mm. This puts the LCA's on a terrible angle - basically making the front feel like crap, and effectively making 8kg springs feel kinda like 4kg springs or something haha
The hot-staff way: Cut tunnel, cut bonnet, and raise the bonnet. This way is not only really obvious from the exterior of the car, but you can't run alot of the standard interior pieces too. Also, centre of gravity of the motor is pretty gay. Good ground clearance though! This option was totally out of the question though.
My way: Lower the middle of the crossmember/steering rack but leave the LCA mounting points in the same location. Downside is poor ground clearance (like JSP). Another 'negative' if you want to look at it that way, is there is another piece in the steering system (rack spacers), so i guess it means extra things that COULD break. They are made of solid 2cm thick steel though, so *touch wood*, no chance in hell. Plus side is i haven't had to bash or cut anything on the body, good centre of gravity, and front suspension is all good.
I was 50-50 about moving the battery. In the end, i rather just keep it looking factory-ish. The coated headers stay SO cool that you can touch the headers without burning yourself immediately after pulling into the pits. I guess this also answers timbo's question: headers seem to give off less heat than the actual motor itself, so should be good. I will definitely make a heatshield to be 100% sure though thanks for reminding me haha.
Nice pussy
god dam. that is so clean. how long before you put a turbo on it?
stroked 2L ca18-ae86 in the build...eta xmas 2012?