so for the money i want to spend and the power i want to make im better off changing to 3sge BEAMS engine because i had that in mind but i think it needs a mod plate and i cant drive it if it does but im willing to take the risk
People say less TALK More ACTION , I say More TORQUE Less TRACTION
to a point yes you are quite abit better off with a beams...
but even then you are chasing quite large numbers from a BEAMS n/a...you'd spent most your budget on buying the motor/aftermarket ecu and installation...
my question is...why do you WANT/NEED 130rwkw+?
if you are attempting to keep up with your nissan owning mates in the traffic light grand prix...sell up and buy a r32 gtr already..
MY AE86 BUILD
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/fo...read.php?t=229
i have more to spend then i posted above i just thought spending that or more on a 20v is not a grate idea, ewoo is selling 3sge beams with gearbox ecu everything basically to go into an ae86 got $6000 think i might just grab that one they claimed it made 135rwkws or so
also the reason for the power figure i want is the 20v does the job perfecly fine i just want it to have the little bit more of an edge on the straights let alone the corners. its not like i want to increase the power stupidly, I just want it to make a respectable power figure that im happy with.
i have about 17k to spend but thats for inside out, coilovers, bride seat ect ect, i am a p plater and i am planning on keeping this car until i get into my full license which is in 2 years, i do want to track the car very often so its basically going to be built to go around a track, i dont want to cut any corners and i want everything done first time properly.
so im more in the mix of doing the beams conversion as it has a more decent power output from stock and i can do a few little things to that like cam shafts and cam gears and a very good tune.
i just want to gather peoples ideas on how to go about making power without doing a sr20 conversion and so on im happy with 130 - 150 rwkws out of my ae86, im not in it to beat my mates that have Nissan, Subaru, Mitsubishi or anything like that im in it to be proud of something that i have done my self and to be happy wit the work and money i have spent.
People say less TALK More ACTION , I say More TORQUE Less TRACTION
Jay (buddyparts) made 115rwkw with a stock 16v smallport bottom end with a massively done up head. It (I think) had 304 degree cams, carbs and some other cool shit.
But if you really want power then set yourself up with a 4agze bottom end and a 2781. It will deliver in a straightline, penis comparison etc etc.
Originally Posted by Jdm-Mcc
Charged, Frak tuned your car or watched over the tune at Allan's didn't he?
If so, to the author of this post, please take the information with a pinch of salt, as I am no where near as educated in tuning or any sort of automotive educated as Frak is on this forum.
Afterall this is the internet, where 60% of the information available is pornographic, and the remainder bar a small percentage is just crap.
Ok, a friend of mine has a stock silvertop 20v, with Toda 272, 264 9.2mm cams fitted, microtech mt8 and it made 106fwkw.
Its fantastic to drive, however, I am not sure how much dyno calibration affects the end result, and am awaiting Frak to jump in on this thread.
The dyno was Bells Auto Service on Main North Rd Prospect, which I believe is a mainline dyno.
Each dyno will have a different reading, and to my understanding, the closest comparisons will be between Dynodynamics dynos in shootout mode.
Speaking with Brenton at 4's and more (mind you a few years ago) a healthy silvertop will output approximately 90ish fwkw. (Confirmation from other users?)
Yes, I am aware it is recored in front wheel kw's.
Having driven my friends car (cams installed and timed by me to Toda specifications) I would say that this is a good street combination, however would I value the judgement of other members with this combination.
Tim Duncan has been in this vehicle, and apart from the pump accel setting being incorrect, the said vehicle pulls extremely hard.
To be really honest, I would much prefer driving a 20v ae86 over a big or small port ae86 as the power deliver is very linear if using vvt, and feels much stonger to drive in the top end.
Turbo on an ae86 sort of throws out the natural neutral balance of the car.
I am wearing my flame suit, so I am well prepared for what is coming, but personally, if you can keep the 20v on song, even in stock form, it is a fantastic combination to run in the chassis of an ae86 with supporting suspension modification.
What are you using the vehicle for?
No point in a high power band if you can't use it right?
Torque wins races, not power.
Last edited by Slimer86; 19th November 2010 at 07:40 PM.
Big up's for the North East Massiv'
NSATB - New Skids Around The Block
I want the car as a sort of daily driver maybe a weekend cruiser up to Wollongong or something like that, but i also want it to drift in and time attacks at the track.
People say less TALK More ACTION , I say More TORQUE Less TRACTION
mmm 86kw sounds not very good from blacktopmaybe you should buy a new engine? and spend the bit extra getting a good engine thats tested. sounds like a tied engine with that power
are you running trumpets?
every stock blacktop I have ever had on the dyno has made between, 80-90kw, he is far from needing a new engine.
yeah lol guess i mean not buy a new engine but maybe it needs to be freshing'd up. if he has trumpets and good extractors then you should be able to get into the 90's surely
also my silvertop was completely stock with a e6x haltech made 84.6fwkw, stock extractors and stock intake. My blacktop i have now made 102.6rwkw with T3 trumpets and jasma extractors and adaptronic ecu. so i would expect alot more from a blacktop than 86rwkw
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