Reply With QuoteGet out of my car Ed, haha.
figured since it's a sticky for a conversion thread, and you need to wire it up, here is this bit of info
NEAR MISS
Get out of my car Ed, haha.
it looked like a c*nt in the big entry comp at basky. i know my ca ke sent me towards the main road at the last turn at basky once cos it bound up and i was too weak to wind lock out and too dumb to back off the throttle!
NEAR MISS
see thats too messy. other option: get an ae crossmember and a mount kit, keep stock rack, uni, steering arms and the rest. what you're listing would add a whole week or two of sourcing parts and labour. puts engine in proper spot and blah blah blah. an SR/13 rack & crossmember is more expensive than an AE one in comparison. so your price example would DEFINITELY inflate for anyone else (unless they know people or shops or whatever.)
again, too hard and messy. and cutting/welding steering components is illegal for those who want to engineer their package. keeping the AE rack and member would eliminate all that wasteful modification that you've just listed.
i don't mean to come off as a self absorbed prick or someone thats pumping their own product, but its just the truth. the idea of it is to do the motor and box relatively simply, not adding TOO many custom parts into the mix which would affect their car should they want to revert it to a 4A or similar down the track.
have a spell mate, reply to my pm so i can buy your shit, then go back to caining matt russell!!
i think your missing a point tho, up until your kit, what else could people do? make their own? yes but then you can't return it to standard like you say in your post
yes people have gone a messier route, but only through a complete lack of an alternative really
NEAR MISS
just replying to your PM now
previously i guess people just modified the existing mounts on the member, or customised stock SR ones. no way of knowing really, there's a hundred ways to do it!
each to their own though. i will say, there is no right or wrong way to do things, so please don't think i'm trying to say so, but there is a cost and labour effective way around everything while still getting a solidly reliable result
the sr x-member conversion was the most cost effective method which had a few drawbacks unfortunately, but some bonuses (huge lock with NP knuckles)
alot of people have had sucess with the s13 crossmember, leigh pidwell, lloyd smith, simon michelmore.......*cough*matt russell*cough*
NEAR MISS
Time for sourcing: One day (one trip to wreckers).
S13 crossmember - I paid $20ea for both of mine.
S12 rack - $50ea.
S12 LCA's - Managed to get them all for free.
Couplings I have found are about $30.
Benefit's- MASSIVE range of coilovers availible. Big brakes. Longer travel in S12 compared to AE.
Theres no cutting and welding of steering components NEEDED to complete it this way, its just udually desired.
This is the way I built my first one and im BASICALLY doing it the same again in my good one.
I still can revert back to 4A very easily. I cost's really jack all to do and opens your options up much more.
Honestly, just because I have done it this way doesnt bias my opinion, I still think this is a better (and cheaper (for me maybe?)) way to do it.
thats OK if you can do that all for cheap, but others dont have the same knowledge/sources to get all that for cheap. dunno about your area but S12 racks don't come along every day at the wrecker. and it seems like a lot of parts for the same result. but horses for courses
what do you do for a gearbox mount?
S12's pop up a bit at the wreckers here. Safe to say theres always at least one in stock at each of the wreckers in Melbournes East. I think those prices are reletively normal for anyone to get, I see crossmembers pop up for $100 but they never sell for that, bit of price crunching helps.
Gearbox crossmember depends on what gearbox/bellhousing combination your using. All custom of course. In my case SR bellhousing with S13 box, use the standard S13 rubber mount and the holes needed for that and the holes in the 86 body are all in line, so a simple straight bit of steel/etc. is easy enough to knock up. For RB box's you need to make one that goes forward a little, and RB25 boxes with SR bellhousing cut and shut need to be stepped back. There pretty easy to make. The hardest is three bits of steel (box section/whatever) and just get under there and mark it out really.
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