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Thread: Building a 7age.

  1. #61
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    Yeah it is kind of underneath, i would say if i took my carpet out you could see where it has been tapped but my extractors have also been cut and rewelded at the collector and miss by a mile now.
    And 7oxin must of got sum wronf info then

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    I didnt know how easy this was, i think il do it to the T18, more pictures people!
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHADOW KNIGHT View Post
    Yeah it is kind of underneath, i would say if i took my carpet out you could see where it has been tapped but my extractors have also been cut and rewelded at the collector and miss by a mile now.
    And 7oxin must of got sum wronf info then
    No i don't, you must just have long headers (and the work was done by dodgy japs).

    With TRD copy headers there's no need to touch the firewall, not in a million years.
    4AGE & 7AGE Forged Connecting Rods - Lightweight Flywheels - And Much More



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    Bahaha sorry man i ment to say I got the wrong info about being more then 10mm.
    And in my case this is how, who ever ( dodgy jap ) went about it and have no idea of what brand my headers are.

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    Quote Originally Posted by AE70 View Post
    I didnt know how easy this was, i think il do it to the T18, more pictures people!
    what do you need pics of i can take whatever you need i can jack up my shitbox and get heaps of pics just need to know what of
    the dyno pull to 300rwkw

    BT20v is making 300rwkw like i said i would without nitrous so now its time for some spray and see if she will run a 10s or less

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    i have a few questions for you guys

    1. why do you need adjustable cam gears again?
    2. i see on some of your setups that some of you change the oil pumps over. is there something wrong with the 7a oil pump? doesnt flow enough or easy to break under revs?

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    To answer both of your questions.

    1. The 7A block is 10mm taller. This extra height (when used with a longer timing belt, which is required) puts the cam timing out a good few degrees - idle quality and power suffers massively if this isn't sorted. One thing i might also add - if you have no intention of dropping in cams now or in the future, i would suggest buying an offset lower timing pulley (off BAZDA, he's on plenty of forums such as toymods etc), as this is SO much easier than using dial indicators to work out the correct 110/110 timing for stock cams.. You just install it like any other lower timing gear, and you're ready to roll. If you are planning on aftermarket cams, then just buy cam gears .. your dyno operator will work out a setting that works best for your combination.

    2. All new 4A/7A pumps are basically internally identical, the only real difference is the tensioner position. This also probably accounts for why some people have used porsche 944 timing belts on their setup, yet that timing belt was just one tooth short for robo86's motor. You can use any oil pump you want (16V/GZE/20V/7A), just don't EXPECT that a certain timing belt length will fit perfectly - you may need to take two trips to your local repco/supercheap/other for timing belts.

    4AGE & 7AGE Forged Connecting Rods - Lightweight Flywheels - And Much More



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    Quote Originally Posted by 70XIN View Post
    You can use any oil pump you want (16V/GZE/20V/7A), just don't EXPECT that a certain timing belt length will fit perfectly - you may need to take two trips to your local repco/supercheap/other for timing belts.
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    on that though , re oil pumps, i have heard the blacktop pump is the least prefered due to the hydraulic tensioner?
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    Yep. Buying a new hydraulic tensioner and its' unique pulley aren't cheap. I think it worked out that you end up saving $200+ by using anything other than a BT pump.
    4AGE & 7AGE Forged Connecting Rods - Lightweight Flywheels - And Much More



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