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Thread: Working with Fibreglass. Making a Hatch

  1. #31
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    Reinforcement inserts glued into inner skin of hatch for hinges, struts, locks etc to screw to. I mixed up an epoxy glue to glue the aluminium in place, then I will glass over the inserts before the top is glued in. I recommend using epoxy glues for gluing metal as the polyester glues dont actually glue metal.
    thats why any fibreglass panels that are glued or puttied into place always fall off in the slightest of accidents.

    Last edited by jimmy19650; 10th April 2011 at 01:56 AM.

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    This is a interestic topic and by the sounds of it you've got some serious skills!
    Shame though that I can't see any of the pictures...
    ADM AE86 Levin

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    pics dont work, upload via photobucket or another photo hosting website. will then give you a link to post

  4. #34
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    Re-attached pics. They should work now.

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    Here are some pics of an ongoing project which i am beginning to regret. Incorporating a TRD style wing into a fibreglass rear hatch. the wing should add a considerable amount of stiffness to the rear hatch, and hopefully
    result in similar weight to a fibreglass standard hatch, with a lighter layup. As you can see, I have had to section the knock-off wing to make it even come close to fitting. i dont know how this wing would have come
    close to fitting. What should have been a weekend job has taken 3 weeks. then I need a mold.


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    And another on-going project. A Levin fender mold modified for a dual purpose. With a detachable front section, I can make either trueno or levin guards

  7. #37
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    Looking good mate.

  8. #38
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    Loving this topic. I've got bit of knowledge and have made my own moulds for 86 flare. Just wanted to know, how you attach inner n outer skins together and can you post some pics of part 1-4 of the guard bolted together. Thanks
    Pick up Sydney
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  9. #39
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    Ok mate. I sometimes think that by starting this thread I am doing myself out of work!!!!!!!! I will post some pics of a guard mold. As for joining halves, there are 2 different ways to join halves

    1) use a small amount of resin, add some Q-cell (glass bubbles) and make a slurry or bog. You can use epoxy resin (good for joining to metal) or polyester resin and mix to whatever thicknes you want. This is how polyester body filler is made, with a bit of talc added.
    2) Use small strips of glass wet out with resin between join. 600 gsm strips about 10mm wide seem to work well. (thats how I join the sunroof skins to the frame). Another way, and the way I will use to join the hatch halves is to use glass rovings, wet out with resin between the halves. Glass rovings look like a thin rope made entirely of glass. they are used in chopper guns and sold in a large roll called a cheese. For those surboard riders, fins used to be joined to a board with a 10 loop join, which was 10 loops of glass rovings wrapped around the base of the fin and joined to the surfboard surface. Obviously the rovongs were wet out with resin first.

    Flares present another frustrating problem. I have purchased a few different types of flares, and none fit properly. The only way to get flares to fit properly is to

    1) first mark out a tracing of the flare on the guard,
    2) wax the guard you will attach them to,
    3) lay up at least 600gms of glass onto the guard, about 5mm bigger than the flare
    4) glue flare to layup
    5) remove flare from guard, trim excess and fill any gaps

    What you should have now is a flare that is entirely enclosed (you can cut access holes into the back of the flare) that will fit perfectly onto the profile of the guard. You can also use some 3M double sided tape to secure the flares.

    I will try to post some pics of all these processes soon.
    Last edited by jimmy19650; 10th April 2011 at 07:49 PM.

  10. #40
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    Trueno heatlight bezel mold finished. Will pop in the next few days. Mold has 1 layer tissue, 1 layer 225, 2 layers 450, 1 layer of 600.


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