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Thread: AE86 proportional valves (brakes n shizno)

  1. #1
    Elite rthy's Avatar
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    Default AE86 proportional valves (for drum to disk rear end)


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    For the vehicles we are interested in, the proportioning valve turning point is set at:
    AE86, ADM = 15kg/cm^2
    AE86, JDM GT with drums, Euro GT with disk = 20kg/cm^2
    AE86 with disk rear, AE85, some Euro = 30kg/cm^2

    It is worth noting that these same valves come on a host of Toyota vehicles, including the 1977 Mini made in Australia. Also, the AE85 (with drums) uses the exact same p-valve as the GTV and GT-Apex models with disks.
    Update: All of my assumption are incorrect. See Jonny's post on the 2nd page

    Due to the lack of proportional valve stock at toyota... whats the difference between the rear drums and disk proportional valves?
    besides the drums has a single piece proportional valve and disk two piece?
    is there a way to modify the drum propvavle to work with disks the same way as the disk propvavle?

    the reason why i ask is that the drum wheel cylinders require more liquid for the shoes to hit the drums... so when swaping over to a disk rear end the rear brakes force will be stronger than the front.

    i did look around on the internets but didnt find anything solid with modding to the drum pv to use on disks rear ends.


    edit: this is for drum to disk rear end, factory swap over
    Using the Factory ADM PV can you modify it to use disk rear end?
    not after adjustable/aftermarket pv as i would have got one along time ago.
    Last edited by rthy; 22nd February 2009 at 11:27 PM. Reason: upadte
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    Veteran Vance's Avatar
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    removing the spraings theory-

    it makes it easier to open the valves which makes the front brakes work earlier.

    i havent tested it personally


    Quote Originally Posted by ae86 View Post
    ive come to the conclusion dan has more STi's than a Subaru Dealership, yeah i went there

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    Veteran LittleRedSpirit's Avatar
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    Just get the same proportioning valve as the diff came with. Failing that you could always use something like this in the rear line to the diff, after the factory proportioning valve:


    If all you need is to limit the flow, thats all you need.
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    ^^^ I have a willwood adjustable proportioning valve setup for my hydraulic handbrake, really easy to setup and way lighter than the stock one.

    And by far the best thing is you can setup whatever brake bias you want!!!

    Check my build tread link below for instal pics (its on the side of the hydraulic handbrake)
    --- All your base are belong to Phil Bradshaw!!! ---
    `
    <<< blog >>> build thread<<<

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    yea hard finding a factory disk pv, bought a rear pv from toyota but they no longer have stock for the front pv! so might have to buy second hand or other way.

    not looking at getting a flow limiter at this stage

    edit:
    also which spring is removed?
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    ive got r32 bmc , hilux front brakes and r31 rear disc brakes.. I am just running the stock pv seems to be sweet ??

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    Elite rthy's Avatar
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    thats cos u got the bigger mc, im still using the factory MC, factory jdm front brakes, factory jdm disk rear end and factory adm drum PV. so once the brakes heat up the rears lock up pretty easy which only happend at winton.

    if i get paid tommorow ill buy some brake fuild and try removing that spring and see wat happens.
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    i see upgrade to r32 ?

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    with the stock brake? nahh

    altho i do plan on using a r32 bmc on my ae71 with rx7 brakes n stuff
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    Senior Member Hen may possibly be a nut's Avatar
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    TO REMOVE ADS, PLEASE
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    Try just pulling the spring out of your current valve. The bit that deals with the rear lines, open it up, remove spring and put it back together. I did that years ago and seems to work.

    At least give it a try before chasing expensive parts around the country.

    Hen

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