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Thread: 4 link adjustment

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    Veteran bigm's Avatar
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    Default 4 link adjustment


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    Hey guys,
    This is more out of interest but i was wondering changing lengths of the 4 arms affects the cars performance? IE traction and others.
    also is their any advantage of inceasing the wheel base by lengenthing all 4 arms?
    any info anyone has would be great.
    o and more interested in drifting if that makes a difference
    cheers

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    Veteran Clinton's Avatar
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    making a longer wheel base would make it handle a little better i guess. but then nothing else lines up? and probs not even worth the effort for the minimal upgrade in handling

    FTP.
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    whats with the drift rings? i know they are just a novelty but do they represent or signify anything?

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    性交を愛する marvis's Avatar
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    If you were going to do that you could always throw an IRS rear end in..
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clinton View Post
    making a longer wheel base would make it handle a little better i guess. but then nothing else lines up? and probs not even worth the effort for the minimal upgrade in handling
    Pinion angle is another reason people put in adjustable trailing arms.

    When you lower your car, your diff nose no longer sits in the correct position (points down), thus moving some point of peak force or some shit... someone explain this better....

    Basically when you're diff nose is sitting level, you win the prize, less wheel hop, more power down etc. So you put in adjustable upper trailing arms to adjust the pinion angle without affecting wheelbase, or upper and lower to rectify pinion angle AND adjust wheelbase if that is your desire.
    You can have any brew you want... as long as it's a Datsun / Corolla / What is that?

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    Senior Member shichi~'s Avatar
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    yep as javal said set your pinon angle straight with the tail shaft should be a good start
    then i guess u can fuck around with it after drifting testing out different settings

    when i had mine in i noticed that the car was alot more controllable at high speed drifts felt alot more stable

    but now im goin to run stock arms with new bushings as it very harsh with a locker and feels like your diff is goin 2 fall off lol id say it not suited to a car u drive daily

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    thanks guys,
    it was just a thought about the wheel base
    will definatly adjust the pinion angle.

    anyone know anymore about this point of peak force?

    and marvis i aint bloddy putting IRS in the peice of shit

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    Senior Member Simon-KE70's Avatar
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    i've played around with settings on my old blue car and i basically made the lower arms the same length as stock and the upper arms 15mm longer, this moved the pinion back into the level postion and then some... so really it was facing up a tad, so when the susp compressions is back into the level postion, this is where the extra grip is from i guess.

    i found it was very smooth to drive after that you could really throw it hard into high speed corners and if you were going a tad hot you could regulate the throttle and it could come back into line no worries.

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    Site Supporter Javal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigm View Post
    thanks guys,
    it was just a thought about the wheel base
    will definatly adjust the pinion angle.

    anyone know anymore about this point of peak force?

    and marvis i aint bloddy putting IRS in the peice of shit
    I had the concept loosely explained to me a few years back... i can't recall most of it though

    Basically the conclusion was to sit your diff level for winning styles, if not a titch nose up. If you get the adjustable arms, do some experimentation and report back!
    You can have any brew you want... as long as it's a Datsun / Corolla / What is that?

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    re pinion angles...
    You want to set it up so that the 2 universal joints (front and rear) are at the same angle under load.
    This means that when the car is squatting and the suspension arms are all loaded up (eg bushes deforming etc) then the joints are working at the same angle to prevent tramp.
    (ever notice how the 2 uni joints are out of phase by 45 degrees? )

    In an ideal situation, when you least want tramp the uni joints should be both straight.

    So to set it up you line them up so that the diff nose points up slightly from where you want it so that when when it is loaded (ie you are accelerating) it moves down. The easiest way to determine where it should be angled is through tuning, this means you get it roughly in the right position, test it, adjust it to a better position and test again... iterate until you are happy.

    A good base is to use the same angles as factory, however with stiffer suspension the car will squat less and with rose joints the bushes will deform less therefore you want less difference in angle than factory.
    On the other hand you might be getting more traction, so the car will squat more.
    You also might have lowered your car, so your anti squat will be less meaning the car will squat more (in the case of 80's toyota geometry anyway).




    As far as increasing the wheelbase goes.
    Very generally speaking a longer wheelbase means a more stable vehicle, a shorter wheelbase means a less stable vehicle (twitchy).
    Another way of saying exactly the same thing is that a longer wheelbase means a less responsive vehicle and a shorter wheelbase means a more responsive vehicle.
    Which one means "good handling"? Who the hell knows... try it and see.

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    Senior Member aaron's Avatar
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    i am curious why people on here believe the 'unloaded' pinion angle should be set upwards slightly, because alot of info i am finding on the net says to set it downwards??
    eg.
    http://www.baselinesuspensions.com/info/pinionangle.htm
    http://www.carcraft.com/howto/91758/index.html

    help please?

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