if its your tail shaft get it cut, shut and balanced. Once you have gone 1 piece you wont go back.
Since I got the sprinter on the road a couple months ago there has been fluttering at certain speed and RPM... only at low rpm on take off and in gear decel around the same speed and rpm.
I know when I put the car up on a hoist to have a look underneath there was a bit of play in the driveshaft and the distinctive light clinking sound. There is also times when taking off you will hear a single metalic "ching" sound.
On the way home from work tonight I started to experience some real bad metalic clanking..... to the point where I though there was like a couple of old saucepans tied to the bottom of car. Yes... that bad!
I know its hard to give a diagnosis over the net without seeing and hearing it in person.... but is it time to find a T series rearend just so I can get a custom tailshaft with replaceable uni's made up?
Any help appreciated....
Speedy.
BTW: Work is only 3.5 km's if your wondering why I have neglected it for so long and I'm finishing off the G/F's car's mods before starting up on the sprinter.
if its your tail shaft get it cut, shut and balanced. Once you have gone 1 piece you wont go back.
Sorry mate I'm a bit vague this evening after a long day at work..... cut shut and balance? You mean get replaceable uni's on the existing one?
Also the not going back once you go 1 pce...... I have heard this many times too.
Can anyone give me some insight as to why? I know all race cars seem to have 1 pce and the only real down side "may" be slight increase in vibration in the high rpm from what I have been told.
by cut, shut and balancing you remove the center uni joints and change your tail shaft to 1 piece. Means more direct power/torque to wheels with less flex down the line. I've got two tail shafts lined up to become 1 piece for spares.
i have a 1 piece on my gte...i must say it is rather nice
transfer of power/torque feels more direct. I've also got a t series lsd rear. For the cost, the t series is overrated...in hindsight a better & cheaper option would have been a crown diff
Guys it was the diff.......... although there was a bit of play in the tailshaft, I decided to check the diff with my mate, drained the oil and there was a shit load of metal.
Only small fragments nothing really chunky... but the oil was like liquid silver. I think it would completely let go within 50kms.
Oh well..... I have a wanted T-18 diff post in wanted section... I know pushing my luck ay
Thanks heaps anyway guys.