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Thread: O/S 4AGZE throttle body upgrade

  1. #1
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    Throttle body upgrade for 4AGZE

    How to fit a bigger throttle body to the 4AGZE..as the stock GZE Throttle body is one of the smallest points in the whole system.. at a measly 46mm.. most of the other gear is around 55mm..

    benefits..

    faster throttle response..
    NO hunting idle
    More top end power as the tb itself is about 10mm bigger..
    Improved acceleration
    I can personally say it felt like the car had an extra 10hp under it's belt.. and realy made it good in high speed WOT runs..

    Parts needed..
    - Toyota 4AGE/3SGE throttle body of your choice.. I used a Gen 1 3SGE one I threw over the fence at the wreckers.. but a normal 4AGE one can be used, and my be easier as the TPS could be the same type. (all the ones I know have the same 4 bolt pattern)
    - Dremel or air tool with bits..
    - 6mm vaccume hose
    - 5mm and 3mm vaccum plug nipple things
    - ae82/ae92 (forget which one it was exactly) 6mm switching solenoide off carbon canister (located near the passenger side firewall)
    - switch/wiring
    - some form of RTV silicone, or a proper trottle body gasket (any 4AGE one will do
    - bit of aluminium for a small throttle cable bracket
    - 3" 90 deg rubber bend and some hose clamps to suit (most diesel spares places have these)

    if you have a front mount on your GZE you might notice it has a bit of a hunting idle sometimes.. this is the Idle speed controller playing up, unsure why, but it has something to do with the extra piping for the front mount.. some may not experience anything.. but want a small power increse anyway..

    take your old TB off (4 x 10 or 12mm bolts/studs), trial fit your new bigger T/B to see if the bolt holes are right.. now take your Down pipe that goes into the s/c off.. 1 hose clamp, take the hose off the ABV, and unbolt the down pipe from the manifold..

    once this is removed, you will need to buzz out about 2-3mm all the way around enlarging the hole in the plate, as the new T/B butterfly will hit this at full throttle.. give the inside a bit of a clean up.. make sure that there is a smooth transition into the pipe from the TB, doesn't really matter if there is an edge on the back side..

    trial fit to see if it goes all well.. leave TB off.. wash out the down pipe with some water/degreeser/carby cleaner, clean the new TB also.. if you have done a RWD conversion you will most likely have blanked off a 5-6mm fitting in the down pipe.. connect your new hose to this, and the large vacuum solenoid off the rolla you pocketed earlier, connect the switch to 12v power to test if it all works.. FYI on should close the valve and off should open the valve, the opposite to the way I would have preffered, but it still works fine none the less.. fit the TPS switch that cam off the old TB if it is different eg (round plug to square plug) if you used a 4AGE TB you might get the same TPS.. and won't need to change, like if you have a square plug 4AGE TPS and your GZE uses the square plug TPS then go for it and plug her in.. if there is a round plugn and a square plug, either change the TPS, or cut and rejoin/solder the TPS that is on the new TB (providing you left it on) in the same wire order you cut them.. which should be the same colour anyway..

    fit the new machined out down pipe.. chuck the new gasket/or just a tiny bit of silicone, put the TB on.. have a look at the back, you should be able to make up a pretty simple 90 deg bend from aluminium to mount the cable..onto, do a few tests with another person making sure you get full throttle, you might need to adjust the cable tension (with the nuts).. use the 90 deg rubber bend, to put on top of the new TB, hose clam, and put your 3" pipe that your filter was hanging off (assuming you have something similar to this) into that..

    start the car with the vaccume solenoide open, you should hear a loud sucking noise (sounds like a NOS purge, or pressure leak) it should idle quite high.. make sure the car is at full operating temp.. and use the idle screw on the new TB to get it to idle at around 900-1000rpm, give it a few revs, let it come back to idle.. just to check the speed.. if your wondering what the hell the solenoid is for?, that's for cold starts, as it is tuned to idle when warm, it won't idle when it's cold.. this will make it idle perfect.. simply flick it on or flick it off when you need to.. you can drive with it on if you really like.. but once warm will idle just under 2G.. cold should idle round the 900-1000 mark which is spot on.. and no it won't lean out the mixture etc because the TPS isn't seeing accelerator input..the map sensor and O2 sensor make sure of it..

    here you can see mine.. with all the gear fitted

  2. #2
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    would this only be for s/c 4agze's or would it have the same affect for a 4agze/te?

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    you wouldn't be using the GZE gey intake setup on a turbo motor full stop, you would be using a 100kw cut n shut, or a AE86 RWD bigport manifold.. both those tb's are around the 55mm mark.. just the GZE one is tiny!

  4. #4
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    ahh okay ta man, in not really sure what one im using

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    Did you end up hooking the coolant lines up as well?
    I just blocked off the solenoid lines, and haven't had any problems...

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    hell no... i took the cooling lines off even when i had the 4age in there.. i hate the bastards...

  7. #7
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    the biggest problem is the inlet pipe that bolts to the inlet manifold its dam tiny cut and shut it and port the hole.

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    but the butterfly for the GZE throttle body is tiny compared to a 4AGE

  9. #9
    Senior Member ToySprinta's Avatar
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    he's talking bout after the charger, just b4 it goes into the engine...

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    ohh right.. my bad.. yeh that whole factory inlet manifold is gay.. do the best you can with it!

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