So yeah the answer "straight bolt up" is very misleading
Since you really can bolt in a number of other ones from various toyota model's as well . But does or is it going to work correctly ? trial and error there
Really why does anyone bother replacing it with a non adjustable valve as mostly everyone has cars with various brake changes , vehicles at different ride heights to standard ! spring rates !messing with the anti dive angles , tyres with friction rating that where never about when the vehicle was first made to name just a few changes
Really making a new right hand brake line , bending the left hand one back to the master , and making a small line section to the 90' rear line joiner { just at under the car at the firewall to underbody panel join } to a adjustable valve and a small one to the master . And you can go changing pads , discs , drum , calipers masters whatever you want and adjust it all to work far better than banging in some second hand bias valve thats most likely more seized than the one you are replacing in the first case . $5 of brake line and maybe a $110 bias valve
Unless you are going to go to all the trouble of working out master pressure for bore , caliper area of pressure from piston sizes , friction of pad area , disc size , bias percentage required blah blah blah guessing bias is what you are achieving so you might as well be able to change that percentage if need be whilst you are getting brake fluid everywhere allover the engine bay just change it for the better
Just add what state you are in and there seems to be so many garages on this forum that for sure you can book it in with one if you don't have the tooling to carry out such a job
If you never have carried out or been trained to do brake repairs i would go near it since you are playing with the last thing before a huge impact