good on you Medicine_Man
Nice shinny booster there
upgarage meh if you cannot understand the post
Look man don't be that way dry.gif Unless you have had maybe 10-20 cars like SprinterTRD here you would have never seen the differences
once again u are saying that i said they are the same
it doesnt take a rocket scientist to work out what the differences are and u only need to compare a jdm and aus spec ae86
good on you Medicine_Man
Nice shinny booster there
upgarage meh if you cannot understand the post
The reason I asked the question is I've just done the rear disc swap and now it seem that rear break doesn't work as well or should I say there is less braking power than before.
After reading about what people have done to fix this including the one about gutting the springs from the original valve etc. the aftermarket propotional valve idea seem best. However after talking to the guy at the local brake shop he said that its not a good idea to fit aftermarket valve as they are not as good as everyone think they are. He recommended that I should do it properly with proper valve and booster etc.
So now that we have established that valves are physically different external and internal, but can be made to fit. How about the booster is the Jap one bigger? can you still get them new from toyota? what else is different?
Tom
astroboy are you dorio86 because u talk a lot of shit
Booster is the same. With my rear disk brake conversion all i did was change the diff and prop valve to the disk brake type.
Pulls up strong
Tom86 , so the car didn't have discs before ?or did ? Or is it that the rear calipers on the diff you fitted are seized ?
doriogarage just accept you where wrong in guessing
Don't get pissed at not knowing or you will never learn shit from anyone here or anywhere , see you have added to this post even when now you are just straightout being a dickhead
If you cannot prove differently or stand up against facts what is the use ?pointless really
keep fiting!!!!!
its the funny
jap booster is the same from memory
personally i wouldnt trust anyones word on these forums
if you really wana find out
get the epc out and have a looksie and compare yourself
let the girls keep fighting
=)
ok astroboy
tell me what i was wrong about???
i said they were straight bolt in (which they are)
and i said they look completely different
ooo yeah
im right
Hey if your are going to start deleting your post to look like you where right
You really should think of how many time you have been quoted as being wrong
Refresh the first page
edit : stop PMing me doriogarage
I don't agree whith this. The bias valve does not have any safety feature to help with leaking fluid. The only safety feature to do with that, is that the master cylinder is a duel system. If the front is leaking the rear will still work (a bit), and if the rear is leaking the front will still work (but your pedal will be down near the floor).
The bias valve works independantly of the front brakes. It limits fluid pressure to the rear brakes only. Drum brakes (when cold) are more efficient than disks so need less fluid pressure. (Old cars with drum fronts didn't even have a booster). Disk brakes need more pressure to work.
So when you put rear disks on a car that had drums you need to increase rear brake pressure. The cheap way is to remove the guts of the rear proportioning valve. BUT, test this on a quite road before going in traffic! If its good (rear brakes not locking before the front), then it's good. Be happy. If the rear are locking first, then buy a adjustable valve in place of the factory one.
Posting Permissions
